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1968 Plymouth GTX

So, the curved rocker blades fit in slots in the base of the antenna, then that is installed from below the fender. I typically screw in the mast so I can hold the lower parts up from above the fender, then the top bezel keys into the two notches in the antenna hole in the fender & the blade on the bezel fits into the slot on the top of the rocker, everything interlocks so nothing rotates... Then the tube nut is installed ...


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Exactly, no “spacer” needed on OE setup.
 
I did figure that positioning of the curved blades out because I couldn't get the top nut to even start on the threads without doing so.
Everything snugged up nice and tight except the mast nut. This made me question the spacer length.

So are you saying to thread the mast nut into place prior to fastening to the fender?
 
Okay, here are the parts I received:
Parts.JPG


Here they are assembled according to instructions:
Parts Assembled.JPG


The spacer is what positions the curved blades. You can see that there are not many threads showing for the mast nut to affix to and this doesn't include the thickness of the fender metal nor the head of the retaining nut.
 
I think the spacer is to long, the reason I thread the mast in early is to give me a way to hold the lower portion from above... The flats on the mast should be fully above bezel, in fact the piece the mast threads into should be exposed 1/8"-1/4"...
 
I think the spacer is to long, the reason I thread the mast in early is to give me a way to hold the lower portion from above... The flats on the mast should be fully above bezel, in fact the piece the mast threads into should be exposed 1/8"-1/4"...
I have spent a lot of time looking for a correct replacement antenna to compare this to. It does seem that the original assembly was shorter overall.
My plan now is to calculate how much I need to shorten that spacer to get enough thread to fully seat the mast.

I will thread the mast on and then measure from the base to where the spacer seats and subtract the height of the curved blades, plus a 1/4". That should get me real close.
 
Okay, I cut the spacer down to 1 1/8" in length. Could have possibly taken another 1/16" but I think it turned out okay.
Spacer Cut and reinstalled..JPG
 
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Moving on to bigger problems.
When I bought the car it had been disassembled for the most part and the engine and transmission came on a pallet. Today I decided to mount the engine on a stand and see just what I have and the condition of it.
Right Front View.JPG


As you can see in these pictures the power steering pump pulley is severely bent.
Front View.JPG


Notice also that for some reason they had to ground wires attached.

Two Ground Wires.jpg

They also had a chain attached to the end of the power steering pump bolt that was about 18" long and just hanging there.
 
Moving on to bigger problems.
When I bought the car it had been disassembled for the most part and the engine and transmission came on a pallet. Today I decided to mount the engine on a stand and see just what I have and the condition of it.
View attachment 1813653

As you can see in these pictures the power steering pump pulley is severely bent.
View attachment 1813657

Notice also that for some reason they had to ground wires attached.

View attachment 1813658
They also had a chain attached to the end of the power steering pump bolt that was about 18" long and just hanging there.
Could the chain be for mounting to the k-member to limit engine movement?

Akin to one of these...

DSC03019.JPG
 
Pretty common redneck motor mount fix back in the day.
Back in the day? It's still effective...Back in the eighties there were OE motor mounts from the dealer @ around $35 each or there was parts store Anchor brand motor mounts for around $6... I was in my twenties & gas was around a buck a gallon... I was breaking motor mounts constantly, changed easily a dozen drivers side mounts... The I chained the motor down... No more broken mounts.....
 
Back in the day? It's still effective...Back in the eighties there were OE motor mounts from the dealer @ around $35 each or there was parts store Anchor brand motor mounts for around $6... I was in my twenties & gas was around a buck a gallon... I was breaking motor mounts constantly, changed easily a dozen drivers side mounts... The I chained the motor down... No more broken mounts.....

Yes, this must have been what it was for as everyone says. I kept it!
 
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