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1969 Charger R/T resurrection

H2E… I'm at the point now where I'm choosing an exhaust system. I know you went with the TTI system with the Dynomax Mufflers. I was wondering what size the pipe was you went with. Was it the 2 1/2 or 3" ? I'm just comparing the price from TTI "header back" system compared to the Flowmaster header back system. I've ran Flowmasters in all of my other builds… tough to go away from what you're used to.
 
H2E… I'm at the point now where I'm choosing an exhaust system. I know you went with the TTI system with the Dynomax Mufflers. I was wondering what size the pipe was you went with. Was it the 2 1/2 or 3" ? I'm just comparing the price from TTI "header back" system compared to the Flowmaster header back system. I've ran Flowmasters in all of my other builds… tough to go away from what you're used to.

I went with the 2.5" system because my hp is only 488. From what I have read and been told, 3" doesn't do to much for you until hp gets north of 500, except giving off a different sound (which some don't care for). Their exhaust systems are sold without mufflers also, so you can just buy your own flowmasters.
 
I went with the 2.5" system because my hp is only 488. From what I have read and been told, 3" doesn't do to much for you until hp gets north of 500, except giving off a different sound (which some don't care for). Their exhaust systems are sold without mufflers also, so you can just buy your own flowmasters.

Good to know. From what Ive read it seems like their systems fit pretty well with different header / muffler combo's. Thanks for the info!
 
I know the consensus as of late has been to use Firecore wires, but I think in my application these Accel's are going to work out pretty nice. They have a hard ceramic end that extends well past the problem heat area of the headers. I ended up using 90* ends on 1,2,3,4 pointed straight forward. A straight on 5 & 8, and a 115* on 6 & 7. I will tie the 6 & 8 down to my fuel lines to make sure they are out of harms way. I will also have to make up the ends on the dist. side, but that should give me nice routing with no extra wire length to worry about.

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Wow H2E - you're still making great progress on the car ! ! ! Keep up the great work - it's looking fantastic ( as always ) . . .

You've gotta be getting close . . . are we there yet ? ? ( smile )
 
Amazing how tight that engine compartment gets with a BB in it especially on the passenger side. Never saw those plug wires before "pretty cool" I know the ones I bought really suck and I'll be changing them eventually. Looking great as usual
 
I know the consensus as of late has been to use Firecore wires, but I think in my application these Accel's are going to work out pretty nice.

Hey if you can make them fit well and easy to install/remove, you're already one step ahead in the game. They look dang nice!
 
I'm with Will, whatever works! And everything's looking good! Every picture makes me more jealous of your headers haha :icon_thumleft:
 
That's a great idea .. good one Elk

You know it would of been nice if they had this technology 20 years ago. I use to have several F-800 with 429 gas and Chevy C-70 with 427 gas and they bough would melt the wires every 6 months.
 
You've gotta be getting close . . . are we there yet ? ? ( smile )

Well, not quite yet Larry. I ran into a little setback with a missing piece on one of my vent wing tracks. I guess I forgot all about it from when I ripped this thing apart. So now I am on the hunt for the piece shown below for the drivers side. Moparparts thinks he has one but waiting for pics as to condition.

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Never saw those plug wires before "pretty cool" I know the ones I bought really suck and I'll be changing them eventually.

A buddy of mine has run them for years and has nothing but good things to say about them. They are more expensive than some others, but there is no need for the extra cloth type heat shield either.
 
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You can reweld that bracket back on pretty easily with a couple tac welds H2E. Had to do the same on my Coronet and the Roadrunner. I take it you still have the stud that runs through, clip and nut? One thing to mention is the factory ran a couple pieces of thin paper like material through the holes with the stud. It was used for a "anti-chatter". I used a couple strips of cut door weatherstrip foam.

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You can reweld that bracket back on pretty easily with a couple tac welds H2E. Had to do the same on my Coronet and the Roadrunner. I take it you still have the stud that runs through, clip and nut? One thing to mention is the factory ran a couple pieces of thin paper like material through the holes with the stud. It was used for a "anti-chatter". I used a couple strips of cut door weatherstrip foam.

That is my plan Will, the only problem is that I am missing the correct piece. The one I am holding is another for the passenger side (the one in your pic. is what I need). I do have the clip and rod though. So if anybody has this part, I am needing one.
 
That is my plan Will, the only problem is that I am missing the correct piece. The one I am holding is another for the passenger side (the one in your pic. is what I need). I do have the clip and rod though. So if anybody has this part, I am needing one.


Hey H2E . . . that doesn't look like too difficult of a part - the drive side should be the mirror image of the passenger side - I've seen your work - I'm sure that you can knock that thing out in no time . . . and it'll probbly hold up better than the stock parts ! ! !

Got a guy down here that I know could do it . . . but he's been so busy finding time to get up with him has been difficult . . .

I'd say give it a shot - what you got to lose ? ? ( smile )
 
Pretty sure I've got one if you need it.
 
I like those plug wires. did you order them special or get them at your local parts store?
 
I like those plug wires. did you order them special or get them at your local parts store?

I bought them through Summit. The only thing with them is they are sold in sets of 8 all one style. So I bought a full set of 90* bends for $100, and then 2 each straights, and 115* for $20. each. My total investment in them is $180, but I have 4 90* left over for spares or I could sell them I guess.
 
Spent my free time this past week getting the internal door stuff cleaned, painted, and installed. I bought these handle backing plates from Mega thinking they were a good idea. It took awhile but I got all the rods, levers, and positioning of parts figured out and adjusted nice.

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And last night we got the decklid and doors bolted on the car. Its really started to take shape now and my shelves are getting barer all the time. Next step will be the glass assembly in the pass. door. I still need to locate the piece I am missing on the drivers side.

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Looking great as usually Elk! Any idea when your wheels are gonna show up? What are you going to run for rear tire size again?
 
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