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What's it Worth 1969 Coronet R/T

Seats in car are not correct as they are tall like I had in a 72 charger, so he has all new foam and covers and found frames as you can see in trunk
 
Headliner is a mouse house. Car was painted orange at some point by the looks of things, then back to White after a bunch of bondo went into her. Be prepared for a good 600 hours of metal and body work...

Exhaust manifold on the passenger floor is not a '68..
 
More pics, any info of manufacturer tag

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Headliner is a mouse house. Car was painted orange at some point by the looks of things, then back to White after a bunch of bondo went into her. Be prepared for a good 600 hours of metal and body work...

Exhaust manifold on the passenger floor is not a '68..
That's a spare that he got with car, and is a 69 head liner is cheap to change on the big scale. Aggressive I can run a magnet to see if lots bondo,
 
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hello all
I have a couple questions
I have a lead on a running 69 coronet rt and wonder what to look for when I go see it Saturday
Are they a good mopar if in decent shape
This is stock and has tons of parts
What a decent price as I have been out of the game for yrs
Any info on this girl would be great
I've had my 69 Coronet RT, numbers matching 440 magnum, 727, for over 20 years, minor mods, don't know what it's worth, great car, love it!
Jim, Redding CA
 
Ok all, so what is the outcome, stay away or get dirt cheap. He is asking 12k for car and 12 k for all extra parts he has in storage. I know there will be all kinds of answers like any forum, but as we all know 50 yr old muscle cars in or from Canada will not be the same from a southern USA car. But what do you guys really think about car and price or what should I pay approximately. I am mechanically able to do most work, fill me in all you know on finding what is needed and if will be difficult or just stay away or what's a good value. I think owner will listen. Thanks
Remember this is Canadian money blahahabla
 
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I think that car has a lot of hiding rust and you will have a pile of time/money in metalwork. Pull the trigger if you really want that car, be be aware that you will be upside down in no time. 12K for everything would be pushing it in my world.
 
Both doors look like that, you thinktheye were changed or just faded? I'm posting this to get advice from you more experienced mopar guys, before I buy and pay to much or regret it. Thx

most of these cars need this, once you dig into them........... not every car, but most of them.......... even if it looks not so bad, it's just how it works....... so beware, or at least be prepared :eek:

it's not about the up front purchase of the car, it's more about what is to come afterwards

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Or I can get a 72 charger base model with rebuilt running 360 and trans, body completely done. , but ready to prime, paint and put back together for 10k obo or 7500 no engine and trans. So couple choices

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I think that car has a lot of hiding rust and you will have a pile of time/money in metalwork. Pull the trigger if you really want that car, be be aware that you will be upside down in no time. 12K for everything would be pushing it in my world.
Ok ill offer him 10k all in. See what he says I can find more base charger and less wanting mopars but rt or ralleye, bee etc very little, thx for info for sure.
 
most of these cars need this, once you dig into them........... not every car, but most of them.......... even if it looks not so bad, it's just how it works....... so beware, or at least be prepared :eek:

it's not about the up front purchase of the car, it's more about what is to come afterwards

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It’s been posted here before many times, but it’s cheaper to buy one that has already been through the process, as long as you can verify it’s been done correctly.
 
It’s been posted here before many times, but it’s cheaper to buy one that has already been through the process, as long as you can verify it’s been done correctly.
Yes agree and never know what people. Try to hide just to sale. We live up north and hard to find a good deal unless you spend big bucks. I try to look way south but in US funds or cars that I don't want. Lol where are good place to look that are not always scams.
 
.where are good place to look that are not always scams.
Look on this forum, members cars for sale, have a look how long they've been on here and what their reputation is...the vast majority are good people.

Know your end goal too when considering a car. A lot of members are perfectionists who will unwittingly scare you about the quality of the car you're looking at because it doesn't meet their standards. But if all you want is a cool cruiser you might get years and years of use out of a rougher looking example with no care about scratches and dents (or a bit of rust).

I've been driving my car for 7 years now after a 4 year "tidy up". It could still be blown apart in my garage if I was doing a concours restoration...and I'd be 7 years older still waiting to drive it.
BUT

Some people love the restoration more than, or as much as the finished product - basically your car choice will depend on what YOU want.
Good luck.
 
Yes agree and never know what people. Try to hide just to sale. We live up north and hard to find a good deal unless you spend big bucks. I try to look way south but in US funds or cars that I don't want. Lol where are good place to look that are not always scams.
I appreciate your situation. I’ve owned seven GTXs over five decades, and most of them came from the southeastern US. Although the prices I paid at the time were considered high, they were cheap compared to body work and paint. The good ones have always been out there, but hard to find. The only unfinished car I ever owned, a good one, is still out there, but the widow of the guy I sold it to won’t part with it. Saving it for a nephew who will “fix it up someday.”
 
Does the price include both engines?
What parts does he have, and would he throw them in for the $12K?
Car will be alot of work.
 
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