1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

[threewood]

I cleaned the tail panel up a bit. The areas with paint I dremeled the pits and went over with body glazing compound. Used silver krylon and brownells flat black. The red outline was done with ss urethane and a paint brush. I still need to find an emblem for it.

And I started on the seat backs. Had scrap masonite board laying around. Cut them to shape and then cut the holes. I bought a cheap rivet tool at Oreillys to put the new clips on. Since I ws missing a panrl I had to order 4 clips and will need to make the lower bracket. Once the panel was riveted, I flipped it over and planished the bottom. I will probably attach the lower strip with staples.

And just a bit ago I bled the brakes. Went around the horn 4 times and got the pedal nice and firm. No obvious leaks at any of the fittings. I'll let it sit overnight and check again and may bleed once more if needed.

 

[threewood]

 

[69 GTX]

Buffing?

 

[threewood]

Buffing?

Lol, yea. On the bumper that is. I'm going to hold off on cutting and buffing the paint until I can roll it out and wash it. Not in too big of a hurry to get it done.

 

[69 GTX]

Could I get measurements for the big GTX emblem on the 1/4s I need to drill the holes for the studs and didn't record the locations. Not sure if they're the same on the pass & driver side.

 

[threewood]

Could I get measurements for the big GTX emblem on the 1/4s I need to drill the holes for the studs and didn't record the locations. Not sure if they're the same on the pass & driver side.

They are different, the pins on the emblems are not centered. I think my measurements are at home so I'll post them up this afternoon. I still have to drill mine too which means quarter interior panels come off....again.

I also got a call from the machine shop, my engine is ready for pickup. He said $1400 for it, $300 more than he quoted. But he did float the small rod ends and rework the big ends. Also told me the pistons are about .010" in the hole so I have to ask....with an 80cc chamber, what head gasket to use with aluminum heads to get 10.5to1? Is there a calculator out there?

 

[69 GTX]

If they are flat tops I would guess that you can't get there. I would guess you would only lose.5 max with a .035-.043 gasket. Hard to tell for sure without cc ing the head. Up side you can run 91 or maybe even 89 octane gas. What cam are you planning to run?

 

[dryheat]

Mark .... I used this one to calculate the CR on my 383 ... I used .027 gaskets and was .010 in the hole so I was around 9.8 ish. This is with the 516 closed chamber heads though.

Here's the calculator I used ... http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

 

[threewood]

Mark .... I used this one to calculate the CR on my 383 ... I used .027 gaskets and was .010 in the hole so I was around 9.8 ish. This is with the 516 closed chamber heads though.

Here's the calculator I used ... http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html

Thanks. Planning on using Stealths that are closed chamber and close to 80cc. If that stays the same (and according to that calculator) and I use a .020 steel shim gasket, compression will be 10.94. If the heads need milled I could go to a thicker gasket to keep it under 11 at least. I'll get there after I get the heads.

 

[69 GTX]

Closed chamber will help prevent detonation.

 

[threewood]

Closed chamber will help prevent detonation.

While I have you on the phone lol...

 

[69 GTX]

Thanks!!!!!

 

[JimKueneman]

Are you pistons flat top with valve recesses in them? That will subtract about 4cc or so and have a noticeable effect of CR.

 

[threewood]

Are you pistons flat top with valve recesses in them? That will subtract about 4cc or so and have a noticeable effect of CR.

They do and it is 5cc which I put into the calculator. KB 237 pistons is what I have.

 

[threewood]

Threewood's guide to Fabrication for the Cheapskate....

Front turn signals. My car had 3 of them, none installed. One was rusted and had no wires, one was missing the sleeve that holds the bulb and one would have worked ok. So, I modified the housings with new sockets. Found the sockets on Ebay for about $6 shipped a pair. I actually ordered another steel set to see if it would fit in the housing (which it didn't).

So a bent the flange of the socket back and removed the old socket from the housing.

Then I took the dremel to the opening using a socket as a size reference. Once it was opened enough, dremel or file two relief cuts for the tabs. Insert and twist and solder up the 2 prong terminal.

To mount it, the original had cage nuts (10-24) that held it in place. I had a hard time finding a place that sold these in lots less than 50 pieces or had expensive ones that were "restoration quality." I picked up these license plate anchors and used them for the princely sum of .97 a pair.

 

[showard]

Thanks for the tips for fixing problems and making them look good and function better. They help me git ideas for my own problems.

 

[JimKueneman]

Well you will never be allowed to park that non-period correct vehicle next to my EFI Coronet for sure.

 

[threewood]

All I have to do is spatter the light housings with undercoat and use "factory applied" paint dabs and I will argue it is a factory correct one of none setup!!

 

[threewood]

Got the seat backs together, should get the covers this week. Fabricated the other bracket from an extra c pillar headliner mount strip.

 

[threewood]

I have a 440 in my Nissan, true story.

Picked it up today, my new engine hoist should be here tomorrow so it will be my copilot for a day. Looks great! Slso got some 727 parts and my ftont seat covers to play with.

Edit: I just helped the UPS driver unload the hoist in the rain so I can get the motor into the garage on the stand.