• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

318 head studs

68rrdream

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:16 PM
Joined
Dec 29, 2022
Messages
142
Reaction score
111
Location
Miami, fl
Wanted to pick your guys brains. So I was a master tech for 20 years. I worked performance for maybe half of that. During that time we had many clients who had us replace head bolts for studs either for NOS or turbo or both. Seemed to always work out fine. Now recently I've been told you have to hone the cylinders with a torque plate and studs so it warps the same. Makes sense to me. I'm planning on playing with my 318 with a little NOS and was going to go ahead and port and polish the heads and have them shaved a bit them put them back on with studs. As far as I can tell my motor is still original from 1967 with not a bit of smoke right now.

Any negative experiences? Anybody seen an engine loss of compression or smoking after this?
 
Yes, with ARP studs, ARP bolts, or even OEM bolts, the best method is to hone the block with a "Torque Plate" as it stresses the block as if a head is installed. You can even see the evidence of this when you take the heads off. You will see vertical portions in line with the head bolts with the crosshatch and the rest of the cylinder is shiny (glazed). Is it imperative for a daily driver or street machine, no, it is not. The rings and cylinders will break in just fine just like it did originally from the factory. It is important and desirable for a high output race vehicle which needs to have the cylinder as round as possible to produce the desired power output. Now, you weren't totally clear in your question, but this can only be done on a fresh bored cylinder, and not just a deglaze re-ring job. When the torque plates are installed, you can see as much as 0.002" - 0.0025" pull back of the cylinder due to the bolts. Studs could be more as they are normally torqued to a higher amount. It will cost more to have the job done with torque plates, so you need to determine if the added cost is worth it for your expected goal out of the engine...
 
You are planning putting nitrous on a engine with a 57 year old set of original rings?

This does mot sound like a good idea.
 
Yes, with ARP studs, ARP bolts, or even OEM bolts, the best method is to hone the block with a "Torque Plate" as it stresses the block as if a head is installed. You can even see the evidence of this when you take the heads off. You will see vertical portions in line with the head bolts with the crosshatch and the rest of the cylinder is shiny (glazed). Is it imperative for a daily driver or street machine, no, it is not. The rings and cylinders will break in just fine just like it did originally from the factory. It is important and desirable for a high output race vehicle which needs to have the cylinder as round as possible to produce the desired power output. Now, you weren't totally clear in your question, but this can only be done on a fresh bored cylinder, and not just a deglaze re-ring job. When the torque plates are installed, you can see as much as 0.002" - 0.0025" pull back of the cylinder due to the bolts. Studs could be more as they are normally torqued to a higher amount. It will cost more to have the job done with torque plates, so you need to determine if the added cost is worth it for your expected goal out of the engine...
Right. I understand that is the right way. What I'm saying is I've put them on many motors with absolutely nothing done to the bottom end. Pull the heads (or head) clean it up, new gasket, install with studs.
 
Just run it on a hundred shot and save your money. Fuel pressure etc in tune
Build a better motor with your saved cash
 
Wanted to pick your guys brains. So I was a master tech for 20 years. I worked performance for maybe half of that. During that time we had many clients who had us replace head bolts for studs either for NOS or turbo or both. Seemed to always work out fine. Now recently I've been told you have to hone the cylinders with a torque plate and studs so it warps the same. Makes sense to me. I'm planning on playing with my 318 with a little NOS and was going to go ahead and port and polish the heads and have them shaved a bit them put them back on with studs. As far as I can tell my motor is still original from 1967 with not a bit of smoke right now.

Any negative experiences? Anybody seen an engine loss of compression or smoking after this?
Studs
aren't necessary for a build unlesd you are abusing it with big compression, boost, or juice.Your choice though.
 
I'd worry more about tight ring gap than head studs on a stock short block with spray. You won't be able to spay enough to worry about head sealing unless the tune is off. And if that happens, the factory pistons with stock ring gap will have probably given up the ghost.
Doug
 
I'd worry more about tight ring gap than head studs on a stock short block with spray. You won't be able to spay enough to worry about head sealing unless the tune is off. And if that happens, the factory pistons with stock ring gap will have probably given up the ghost.
Doug
Not to mention lifting the top ring land off when the rings butt...
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top