383 Engine Build

[70383runner]

Anybody out there have a solid dyno proven 383 engine build spec? Block is being cleaned and checked for cracks right now but cannot find anything build wise on line. Have had my share of lumpy cams and 5 miles to the gallon but don't want a granny engine either. Decent idle with around 400+ HP that runs solid.

Was thinking a little port/polish on the stock 906 heads, nice breathing headers, slight overstock cam. Not sure this will get me there. Any build specs out there that might fit the bill?

 

[IQ52]

Yeah here........look at the 4-bbl dyno run. This is a 400, but take the compression to 9.0-9.5:1 and change the cam to the Summit 6401, do the head work you are talking about and you should pull about 400 HP.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/the-slug-400-on-the-dyno.80843/

 

[Banzaiii67]

Like Jim said above, it's in the heads and how they flow, doesn't hurt having a big carb either. Jim the guy to ask heads, he a wizard when it comes to head flow.

If your starting fresh, in my opinion I would rather stroke a 383 with a 3.75 or 3.90 crank. You'll be happier in the long run. I have probably close to $4500 in my 383 and I'm pulling it to build a 470 B motor. Torque is much better on the street.

From what I've learned here on FBBO, is that B blocks with stock stroke are pretty easy to over cam. If your going hydraulic a Crower 32243, Comp XE268, XE274, or a Engle K56/K58 would all be good choices in addition to the Summit 6401. The smallest Mopar Performance .528 solid would also be a good cam.

Any way you go, more gear and stall you have the better for these B blocks, that way your are in then peak powerband early.

 

[moper]

Built this 15 years ago as the owner got tired of the crappy idle and performance.... It now makes about 380hp, idles like a kitten, and pulls like a freight train from idle to 5800. It's the numbers matching engine for it (an R/T) so the goal was performance with as little major changes and new parts. In an an E body with a stick and 3.91s it's a handful but runs on pump 87.
383+.060, align honed, square decked to blueprint height without removing the numbers, bored & honed with torque plates, crank turned & polished, factory rods redone with ARP bolts, KB flat top hypereutectics, performance internally balanced, Comp XE268, windage tray, stock oil pan, 906 heads with 2.14/1.81 valves, unleaded seats, and a 5-angle performance valve job, Street Dominator intake, and Holley 3310. Runs an MP ignition conversion.

 

[Banzaiii67]

I believe I was there with my 383. .528" cam. Flat tops pistons .005" in the hole. Pocket ported 915 heads with standard valves. Torker intake with Holley 750 vac secondary (3310-2). 1-7/8" headers and a 4.88 Dana. 68 RR went 12.65 @ 107 with slicks. The .528" is way more streetable than the .509"

Here's a 383 Dyno thread
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/ran-my-car-on-a-dyno-this-weekend.82195/

Here a 383-450 Stroker thread with dyno numbers
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/my-383-450-stroker-build-info.85771/#post-910197600

 

[poly3521]

Here's an article Hot Rod did a few years ago. Stock 383 with headers, intake and carb made 406hp. With a cam, 454.9hp.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/mopp-0209-383-engine-restore/

 

[70383runner]

Wow, thank you everyone