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383 hp rebuild or refresh?

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Is there any way to fix this part of the a/c system?
 
Again, thank you clarifying that for me Phil! I feel like I've gotten the better end of the .04 you have offered! I have some things to think about before spending any cash.
 
View attachment 357511 Is there any way to fix this part of the a/c system?
I don't think theres any hope there, anyway mine looked solid but when I went to try to disconnect the lines the metal simply broke, you'll probably have to do what I intend to do is upgrade the system. I d
View attachment 357511 Is there any way to fix this part of the a/c system?

BEST OPTION PROBABLY its what I'm planning.
http://www.classicautoair.com/Mopar_Air_Conditioning_Mopar_AC.html
 
I appreciate all the info for the engine rebuild. I think this is going to be more involved than I initially thought. I had someone else mentioned that aluminum heads Provide the best bang. They mentioned that the 484 camshaft list above is old technology.
 
I appreciate all the info for the engine rebuild. I think this is going to be more involved than I initially thought. I had someone else mentioned that aluminum heads Provide the best bang. They mentioned that the 484 camshaft list above is old technology.

I thought this was a stockish rebuild or a semi-restoration? Only the Stealth heads look stock everything else sticks out like a sore thumb.... Yep, the hammer is old tech as well and the .484 maybe be old but it works way better than it should so that kind puts it back in the hard too beat category.

I guess what is your final desired outcome for the car? There are degrees, cruzer daily driver, fun toy, seriously fun weekend toy, drag car...Many, many more questions but you get the hint....
 
It sounds like you need to figure out what you want before you get started. It's easy for me to say this cause I was like you when I started mine 3 yrs ago. You finally got yourself a cool piece of history and in your head you want to preserve it but you also know with a tweek here and there it can come alive. Start writing it down and stick to it or your going to end up spending money every time you change your mind.
 
Thank you Phil and Texas 69. I Think what I'm looking for is something I can take the car shows and show off as stock. something that is a cruiser/seriously fun weekend car. My vision is the pull-up next one of these modern chargers or challengers and just smoke the crap out of them!!
 
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So the last thing I need to take out to pull the engine are the torque converter bolts. Unfortunately I have all the wiring out so I cannot crank it over. I've been trying with a prybar on the crank bolt but I cannot get it to turn. Finally I pulled off one of the head and realized why. I need some Mike's magic oil.
 
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So I took the heads off and I'm noticing that most of the water passages are completely blocked. It's probably a good thing this engine was not started recently.
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Thank you Phil and Texas 69. I Think what I'm looking for is something I can take the car shows and show off as stock. something that is a cruiser/seriously fun weekend car. My vision is the pull-up next one of these modern chargers or challengers and just smoke the crap out of them!!

As good as these engines ran back in the day, modern muscle cars are hard too beat today. If that was the direction I wanted too go in, I would look seriously at doing a stroker based on the 400 block. A 451 or 470ci with the stealth heads and lie too everyone with a straight face and say its just a good running 383 the whole time. Cam, intake, headers nice converter with shift kit, and some good gears in the butt with a razor sharp tune nothing crazy and I would stick with that story until the day I died.
 
Phil has given you some good info. And, especially on the numbers, you've got a great start, great parts to work with. (Be sure to write down your block #!!)

All in all, from your pics, yeah, motor just needs a little butt patting, getting it back up. Even just the normal stuff...in a full overhaul...will get it done.
 
I'm glad to see you broke it down a bit more, ya never know whats lurking till you look. Also I like the mystery oil it has worked well for me....
 
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So after a lot of thought and talking to a lot of people I've decided to go totally bone stock with the engine. if I have to I'll just use some lead additive with today's fuel. Finally got the engine out and the torque converter off. I Have it up on the stand and going to tear it down, have everything gaged, and then determine what I need to start rebuilding. So far I'm thinking rings possibly bearings and a new seal kit.
 
Good choice to go with the rebuild, you'll thank yourself later. For my part, I have a 383 in my '69 RR and knowing what I know now, doing a stock rebuild would not be a bad thing. You'd still have enough power and performance to have fun with. Even if you did some time tested bolt-ons afterwords, you'd still get more power without breaking the bank and have something fun to drive.

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Stock with a few bolt-ons.

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Not stock, lots of power. Way more money than most would put into a 383, but that's what I had (so that's what I used) and what ended up in my car.

Ultimately it all comes down to your wallet / intentions and it's easy to get sucked into the rabbit hole. Nothing wrong with stock with a few practical upgrades. Have fun and good luck.
 
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My 383 will be going to the machine shop this week hopefully. not going nuts, just a little better than stock. .030 over, stealth heads, 9.0:1 compression. I want to run low grade pump gas, and be able to drive it as far as I want whenever I want ! I spent quite a bit of time comparing bone stock rebuild vs mild upgrades, buy the time you add up all the stock stuff its really not much more to add some performance upgrades. stock iron heads with good seats, seals, bigger valves, machine work was not much cheaper than the complete aluminum heads. you wont need to run lead additive, just have the heads gone through and hardened seats installed, you'll be fine with that ...
 
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Pretty much a given, you'll have to have the cylinders bored...so, new pistons. But, overall, probably have good parts and pieces to work with. Ha! Charger motor I built for my oldest son (and we drove the thing home!), when I busted it down...ten of the sixteen push rods were bent!
Understand on the converter bolts. But, just in case you don't know...normally, you never pull the motor with the converter. Why...because the weight of the converter will warp the flexplate it's bolted to. Be sure to really check the plate out, or replace it. You could well already know 'that' mess.
BTW...have FUN doing it!!!
 
Mine had very little wear, so the bores were re-honed,heads re-done with hardened seats,new valves,cam,rings,lifters and the crank re-polished with new bearings.

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Larry: thank you for sharing the pics of your 383. While I would love the extra power and speed there is just something about that stock look. I may add some bolt on stuff to eventually just for an easy change.

65-440: thank you for your reply. When you say You want to be able to drive as far and wherever you want how will a stock engine limit that? Thank you for the input on pump gas and hardened seats.

Miller: I will make sure to check the flex plate.i also heard that the main seal could get damaged if not careful pulling it this way.

Bee71: I am hoping that mine is not worn badly and I can just hone and re-ring my original Pistons. It has 70,442 miles and was parked in 1978 where it sat until about 8 years ago. Cylinders don't look scored or worn badly. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 
Sorry for the confusion, I was just stating my goals with my engine build. Absolutely no limitations on daily driving with a stock rebuild ! Me personally, I just looked at the cost of fully stock build vs mild upgrades and too me it was not that big of a difference price wise to add a few goodies. When it's all said and done I'll have roughly 3k into my motor, including aluminum heads, bigger cam, a few external replacement parts plus the block machine work. I was not far from that with a stock build !
 
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