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383 to 440 swap

Durandal25

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Team,

I have finally finished my stock 440 motor and wanted to drop it into my stock a/c automatic 1967 coronet 440. Just picking your collective brains on this, but what should I be watching out for in terms of clearance and exhaust hook-up? I have a good set of standard exhaust manifolds and hp ones. Will either hook up the same? Any advise would be greatly appriciated!
 
I personally like stock HP manifolds, with a balance of performance and reliability, and ease of maintenance. It depends on how modified your engine is, of course. Stock stuff just fits better to me. HP and standard both will fit, and both are low maintenance.
 
....and my day is getting better! I was thinking the same thing, and hoped I could use those awesome hp manifolds
 
hp are no issue....either is the change...
 
hp are no issue....either is the change...

...the only one I could think of is possibly the torque converter, but I'll look at that when the motor comes out I suppose
 
Since the 440 block is a bit taller and has a wider deck, you might have a fitment issue with the exhaust down pipes since the heads will sit higher and wider in the car. Been a long time since I've messed with a big block 67 but your kickdown linkage may need attention since the carb will also sit higher.
 
Since the 440 block is a bit taller and has a wider deck, you might have a fitment issue with the exhaust down pipes since the heads will sit higher and wider in the car. Been a long time since I've messed with a big block 67 but your kickdown linkage may need attention since the carb will also sit higher.


Thanks for that sir, I believe the linkage is adjustable, but I'll wrestle that when I get into it, but I hope I don't get too deep into this puppy and find out a lot of special parts will be needed
 
yes, make sure you check the torque converter. if your engine is internally balanced then no weights on the converter & proper damper. if externally balanced make sure the converter & damper are the right ones
 
yes, make sure you check the torque converter. if your engine is internally balanced then no weights on the converter & proper damper. if externally balanced make sure the converter & damper are the right ones
.....I have the correct flexplate , but I guess the exhaust is what I'm most worried about...would new down pipes be a good investment? I have both types of manifold, the normal and hp.
 
I would use the cast iron exhaust manifolds that are the easiest to hook up. I have dyno tested the stock/normal and HP and there is only about 4 horsepower difference in a 300 HP 440.
 
accurate exhaust will sell you the correct exhaust pipe, just give them the casting number and body type, and it will come to your door. I would mention to closely match the torque converter stall speed to the cam you put in the engine. The stock 440 HP engine uses a higher stall than a standard 440. low end response is Important.
 
When I did the 383 to 440 swap, I didn't even take the original exhaust out of the car. I unbolted the manifolds from the 383, dropped in the 440 and bolted the manifolds back on. No issues.

I will mention though, I had no H pipe, so spreading the exhaust wasn't a problem.
 
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....you guys rock, all this intel gives me the confidence to kick this thing into high gear. Thanks team.
 
......so engine hoist question. 1 Ton or 2?
 
......so engine hoist question. 1 Ton or 2?

2 ton gives you a lot more safety margin, especially if you are installing the engine and transmission together. I found this one on closeout at a local store:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...s-engine-hoist/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=123037

It is very good quality and is easy to store as it comes apart and the outriggers fold up, unlike most shop cranes.

You could also consider Mac's pivot plate, which makes these kind of installs (eng+trans) cake:

https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/pi...m=MAC-701001&gclid=CIW5_dCFmr0CFcRi7AodsWsAIw
 
2 ton gives you a lot more safety margin, especially if you are installing the engine and transmission together. I found this one on closeout at a local store:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...s-engine-hoist/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=123037

Thanks for the update sir. We are just dropping the engine, and not the tranny. I'm wondering if it may be better to pull them both at the same time.

It is very good quality and is easy to store as it comes apart and the outriggers fold up, unlike most shop cranes.

You could also consider Mac's pivot plate, which makes these kind of installs (eng+trans) cake:

https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/pi...m=MAC-701001&gclid=CIW5_dCFmr0CFcRi7AodsWsAIw

Thanks for the update sir. We are just dropping the engine, and not the tranny. I'm wondering if it may be better to pull them both at the same time.
 
Thanks for the update sir. We are just dropping the engine, and not the tranny. I'm wondering if it may be better to pull them both at the same time.

Easier to bolt the new motor on old trans out of the car, like the flexplate to flywheel bolts and the bellhousing. But it can be done underneath the car with the trans left in, maybe a few more busted knuckles is all.

The advantage of the 2 ton picker is you can extend the boom farther out and still maintain a 1+ ton load rating. This is good for complete drivetrain installs where you have to angle the trans tail shaft into the tunnel. Have fun!
 
Easier to bolt the new motor on old trans out of the car, like the flexplate to flywheel bolts and the bellhousing. But it can be done underneath the car with the trans left in, maybe a few more busted knuckles is all.

The advantage of the 2 ton picker is you can extend the boom farther out and still maintain a 1+ ton load rating. This is good for complete drivetrain installs where you have to angle the trans tail shaft into the tunnel. Have fun!

.....you got me thinking on that one, May be swinging to your side of the fence.
 
.....so today while looking at what an awesome job I did painting my engine, I figured out that I painted it mopar blue instead of turquoise. What a pisser.
 
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