383 vs. 440 street build

[RustyRatRod]

I figured I'd throw this in the mix.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0209_383_engine_restore/

Now, they did zero deck the block and use KB pistons. The compression was actually LOWER than if they had used the stock flat tops, though. But the engine was stock other than that for the first dyno session. Also, notice how much power they got out of it still with the stock cam by only adding bolt ons. Oh and those 906 heads are unported, too. You don't think a 383 can make power? Think again.

 

[national]

Exactly rusty...Funny thing is..mopar guys like to throw the 383 motor away likes its a 6cyl...Ive seen the identical 383s run a tenth or two less than a 440 on strip & but also seen a 383 dust that same 440 on street..strip & street is def. difference..more displacement isnt always the answer..look at all the 350 chevys that will dust a few mopars with very similar build..what happened to displacement there? And no Im not a chevy guy..

 

[fatecaptured]

I'm not even close to having your guy's experience or wisdom. All I remember is i turned a good friend "who was a die hard chevy fan" into a mopar fan. With one ride in the coronet. And that was my 383!! I never driven a 440 powered car. Owned one now for a few years.. But never driven it. So I have no way to compare the two.

But that 383 really tore *** on the street. I was always under the impression it was a 8:1 compression motor, till recently I read 383 hp's had 10:1 compression. Whether it's exact or not. I do know that I bought 10 gallons of cam2 and that sucker woke up even more. I had no reason to squeeze the bottle "was empty anyways". Only regret I have, is taken that motor apart...

 

[robinsonwr]

No replacement for displacement!

 

[1969CoronetR/T]

I like to drive my 383, but I love to drive my 440.

 

[RustyRatRod]

My arguement for the 383 simply stems from what I already have. There's nothing wrong with a 383. They can make beyond respectable power. Certainly if you have access to one or the other and you have the space for the 440, then it wins. But if you have a 383 already, there's no need in throwing it in the ditch in favor of running out and buying a 440. If that's the case, yall bring all your 383s to me, I'll take every one of them.

 

[super-bee_ski]

440 "disguised" as a 383!

 

[fatecaptured]

440 "disguised" as a 383!

Hell. In that case, I could buy a 318 pie tin and slapper on the air cleaner. Just say its one of the rare wedge small blocks. An RT/SE/GT deluxe.... .....lol.



Was referring back to a story I posted in mopar myths. Lol

 

[RustyRatRod]

Just say its one of the rare wedge small blocks.

Small blocks are wedge motors so it wouldn't be too far off. lol

 

[Stumper]

Unless you have a correct car that needs a correct 383 motor in it, why pour a 12 oz when you can pour a 16oz - or in this case why pour a 12oz into a 16oz glass, when you can have it full?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Unless you have a correct car that needs a correct 383 motor in it, why pour a 12 oz when you can pour a 16oz - or in this case why pour a 12oz into a 16oz glass, when you can have it full?

I think I answered that in post #26.

 

[Stumper]

I think I answered that in post #26.

It depends on what you want and or plan to do I guess. If you just have a 383 short block I would still consider spending a few bucks for a 440 short block, especially if you are doing a full build up. If you have a near complete motor and plan to reuse most everything them it would probably make sense.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It depends on what you want and or plan to do I guess. If you just have a 383 short block I would still consider spending a few bucks for a 440 short block, especially if you are doing a full build up. If you have a near complete motor and plan to reuse most everything them it would probably make sense.

Or if you're on a budget and cannot just run out and buy a 440.

 

[Budnicks]

2 engines & 1 car what a dilema...LOL..., It's great to have choices... I will 1st state, There's nothing wrong with the 383ci BB Low Deck Wedge {or 388ci @ 0.030" over}, especially for street use & regular daily type driving, with the occasional stop light to stop light blasts, easily 400+ hp with basic performance mods & correctly done builds, probably a little more fuel efficient, than a 440ci they are also slightly, lighter, narrower & shorter, you can have more hood & header/exhaust clearances, 383ci/3.375" stroke vs 440ci/3.75" stroke is the biggest differences, stroke is torque, torque make a heavy car move more effectively/efficiently, bore of 383ci/4.25" std. to 440ci/4.32" std. bores, only 0.070" difference, both 383/440 use basically the same cylinder heads, the identical cylinder heads on the 383ci are more effective/efficient than on the 440ci in stock form, more flow per/ci, for the 440ci they should be worked a little more, the 383ci & 440ci basically used the same camshafts, so the effective/efficiency, was better on the 383ci, also the lighter engine, will have slightly less tire, shock, brake, wear & will aid to slightly better performance/handling & weight distribution also... but if you already have a 440ci installed in the car & your not trying to make a 100% OEM #'s matching 100pt correct restoration, there is no replacement for displacement... For not much money, the best of both worlds, especially if the car is an original 383 car, would be a lighter 383 low deck block, good properly matched components & gaskets, with a properly machined 440 crankshaft & custom 0-deck pistons, the proper camshaft & cylinder heads, induction & exhaust for your intended usage, @ 431ci @ 0.030"over bore 4.280"x 3.750" stroke, 440 power in a 383 package, not really a race engine, just a great street strip engine combo, NOTE the 383 blocks are weaker in the main webs, than the more desirable 400 low deck B-blocks, but comparable with the 440 main webbing, good to about 550hp with out a girdle or special modifications.... Good luck in what ever you decide to do... Properly done/worked, Cylinder Heads are everything, for making great usable HP/TQ on any Mopar BB wedge build 361-383-400-413-426-440... The 383 seems to be the bastard little brother of the BB Mopar Wedge world, much like the 318 in the Mopar SB Wedge world, they both are viable in their own ways, sometimes you just need to think outside the box...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

no replacement for displacement but...

what about a turbo slant 6 ?

:grin:

 

[fatecaptured]

It's cool that this thread has gotten so much attention. I did decide to monkey with the 440 as is till I can afford a good build "not a cheap throw together". I have been posting my progress with reviving the beast in my other thread. It seems like a good motor that's been very much abused. It will definitely need a rebuild. I plan on just being able to drive it back and forth to my storage unit till I can get in a good place and do it up right.
Although it runs, there were pieces of valve seals inside the valve cover"I did remove the pieces". And I'm not an expert mechanic by no means. I believe the timing chain is stretched too. If the timing mark on the crank fluxuates and the distributor is tightened down, right? I'm talking about when I use my timing light. Like I said i'm no expert, but i'm getting better everyday with all you guys offer to this forum everyday. My progress seems pretty minute compared to most, but it keeps me going.

Maybe i'll save the 383 for my daughters first car.......

 

[robinsonwr]

I think a comparison of the 440 RB to 383 B block engines with the same budget for a build will yeild nominal results for both. Understanding that the larger engine will wake more power either torque or hp in the long run. I am currently building a 440/512 for my 1966 Satellite. I have the original 361 that it came with. I hope in the future to stroke the little 361 to 426 cubic inches. The 361/426 build would have actually taken more money since custom pistons would have been made for build. My hopes are to have a strong 361 back in the frame rails in the future but until then I will enjoy the power of the 440/512. Good luck on your build.

 

[Grabinov911]

Looking for advice. I'm in something of the same boat:

I have a matching numbers 1970 383HP RR. That said, it's not the most valuable of matching numbers combinations: a 383; column shift; no air grabber or special options other than bucket seats. I repainted it to Tor Red / Hemi Orange because is seemed like a crime to do anything else. It's not a show car. I don't want a show car. The 383 is stock but for an unknown "mopar performance cam". The car has 50,500 original miles and seems to run perfectly. It sat for 10 years before I got it. I cleaned it up, it runs. (You can read more about it in my post "80 Grit" if you want.)

But it's a little anemic. There's no way it makes the 335hp it was supposed to make stock, and I WANT MORE POWER. Like tire spinning, smoke making power. I'm thinking of buying a Muscle Motors stroker kit and hiding a 496" motor inside of the 383 block - just to be cruel! Or should I set the stock motor off to the side and just buy and build a 440? I don't plan to take the car to the track (unless I get invited), it just needs to go fast for a couple hundred yards at a time.

Anyone? I'm stumped into inaction. I've been thinking about it (and doing nothing) for months!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I say do with it what you want. But just know that if budget is any consideration, you already have a COMPLETE engine. Logically, if I were you, I would use what I already had. But I am not you. ;)

 

[Cranky]

Stretched timing chain or a bad distributor or both can make your timing jump around. If the engine has been abused, I'd suspect both. One nice thing about 440's is their torque. The longer stroke does that and with highway gears, you can still smolder the tires and cruise the freeway. The engine has plenty of low end grunt to pull 2.94 gears in town and then loaf on the highway doing 80 without the rpm being in the sky and pretty much do it in stock form. Mods can be minor and make a big difference like pocket port the heads (factory back cut sucks) and then use a good intake and make sure the ports from the intake and heads have a smooth transition. You don't have to do a lot of mods to these but just make sure everything is right. Good exhaust compliments a good intake. I'd at least go for the hi po manifolds as a minimum.