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440 hesitates on light throttle

I was going to gradually increase the timing to around 20 degrees or whatever it could take and not ping and start without too much load on the starter.
If you want to know what it is, then just raise the timing to 20-22 degrees and let the engine get to operating temperature and then try to see if the hesitation is gone or almost gone.

Then you can put the ignition timing back to where it was, if you want to.

That does look like a 4 speed carb.
 
There is no such thing as an "EDDY" carb......do you mean Edelbrock or the Weber facsimile of the origional Carter and whether it's an AFB or AVS. Since you keep referring to the power valve, only Holley uses a power valve. A few pix will be helpful......
BOB RENTON
Hello, my previous post mentioned a correction. I have a Carter AVS. I had also posted pics on post #26.
 
If you want to know what it is, then just raise the timing to 20-22 degrees and let the engine get to operating temperature and then try to see if the hesitation is gone or almost gone.

Then you can put the ignition timing back to where it was, if you want to.

That does look like a 4 speed carb.
going to try that later tonight if the weather holds...
 
Try advancing the ignition timing to 15 degrees to see if the hesitation goes away. Also try removing the vacuum advance hose and plug the port.

The gasket for the air cleaner is missing.
the gasket was stuck on the bottom of the air cleaner base. It's there.
 
I agree it does look odd. Also my idle screw seems to be out a long way also. I did use a vacuum gauge to set the idle mixture to the best possible vacuum.
You very well could have a vacuum leak.
 
Mine likes timing.. 21 initial, 14 curve, on manifold vacume. I’m with the masses on the accelerator pump.
 
What is the idle vacuum, & in gear, if it is auto?
If it is 15" or more, then it should not need a lot of initial timing for best idle; however, more idle timing will make the engine more efficient & run cooler. Giving the engine more timing at idle has fixed many an off idle flat spot.....
Many GM engines left the showrooms idling with 24-26 degrees. That was accomplished by using a small static timing, say 6*, & adding 20* with the vac adv unit connected to manifold vacuum [ MVA]. Chrys missed the boat on MVA....
 
I'll try to answer all the current questions.
1) it's a 4 speed
2) I'm able to adjust the fuel mixture to get 18" of vacuum
3) I'm using an original air cleaner
4) Timing was reset to 18 degrees

Modest improvement but I still feel hesitation on light throttle. I will order the carb rebuild kit with accelerator pump.
 
I'll try to answer all the current questions.
1) it's a 4 speed
2) I'm able to adjust the fuel mixture to get 18" of vacuum
3) I'm using an original air cleaner
4) Timing was reset to 18 degrees

Modest improvement but I still feel hesitation on light throttle. I will order the carb rebuild kit with accelerator pump.
IMO.....the origional Carter carb, Carter AVS 4968 Auto and Carter AVS 4967 Manual are emission controlled carbs. They have a factory adjusted off idle mixture adjustment device that promotes a slightly lean off idle mixture and also admits additional air flow to the idle transfer circuit during coast down. This off idle system is independent of the normal idle fuel metering circuit as it meters air not fuel. It is very likely that someone removed the origional idle mixture screws and installed ones with a different taper, trying to fix the lean off idle transfer issue. The idle fuel metering circuit is in the primary booster venturii assemblies, which is basically non adjustable. I do not believe its a timing or float level or pump pressure, or vacuum source for the distributor advance or accelerator pump settings. Enriching the primary jets or metering rods may help. Just my thoughts....
BOB RENTON
 
IMO.....the origional Carter carb, Carter AVS 4968 Auto and Carter AVS 4967 Manual are emission controlled carbs. They have a factory adjusted off idle mixture adjustment device that promotes a slightly lean off idle mixture and also admits additional air flow to the idle transfer circuit during coast down. This off idle system is independent of the normal idle fuel metering circuit as it meters air not fuel. It is very likely that someone removed the origional idle mixture screws and installed ones with a different taper, trying to fix the lean off idle transfer issue. The idle fuel metering circuit is in the primary booster venturii assemblies, which is basically non adjustable. I do not believe its a timing or float level or pump pressure, or vacuum source for the distributor advance or accelerator pump settings. Enriching the primary jets or metering rods may help. Just my thoughts....
BOB RENTON
Bob, I think you’re kinda wrong. Different taper on idle mix screws?? Maybe longer/shorter of taper (?), don’t remember any difference in any of the carbs I’ve ever seen. Otherwise, you’re correct.
 
Bob, I think you’re kinda wrong. Different taper on idle mix screws?? Maybe longer/shorter of taper (?), don’t remember any difference in any of the carbs I’ve ever seen. Otherwise, you’re correct.
Some of the replacement parts from the on line suppliers show mixture screws with longer or shorter tapers in addition to being the same thread size but different overall lengths......
BOB RENTON
 
If the mixture screws change the engine note & are not bottoming out, then it doesn't matter what the taper is. The screws are tapered to adjust the cross sectional flow area for that engine.
 
If the mixture screws change the engine note & are not bottoming out, then it doesn't matter what the taper is. The screws are tapered to adjust the cross sectional flow area for that engine.
Wrong......the degree of taper accounts for the sensitivity of the adjustment.....long taper = more range-ability or sensitivity conversely, shorter or blunt taper = a more coarser adjustment.
BOB RENTON
 
Wrong BOB. Read up on cross sectional area.

And it is 'more coarse'......not 'more coarser'
 
Hello all,
quick update on the hesitation issue. I removed the old points and condenser and installed Petronix. Thought I would do that before removing the carb to service the accelerate pump. After I installed the Petronix the hesitation issue was completely gone. Think I may have had a bad set of points or condenser.
Thank you all for your suggestions, I learned a lot and appreciate everyones help and input.
 
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