440 oil pump removal

[MarPar]

You can apply some chap stick or candle wax to that gasket and it will not stick if you ever have to remove.

huh. no ****. never thought of that. the chapstick wont go away with the heat?

When the bolts are in "RIGHT" you don't have to remove the pump,whoever put it together made a very easy job hard !!

ya tell me about it!!! arrgh!! lol sweet mill btw!!

 

[RustyRatRod]

I've never had any trouble with the wax runnin out. I've used it on all kinda stuff.

 

[MarPar]

i thinking more that it would melt away or dissipate.

hell, if it's worked for you, ill give it a shot and see!

got any tips on oil pans, there Rustola? going to be re-doing mine AGAIN for the fourth time in as many years.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Sorta. I like this for a gasket.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/502000/10002/-1

I got one for my 383. It's a heavy duty polymer with rubber impregnated in it for the gasket. I said impregnated. he he he huh huh huh. It's totally reusable. Does away with the conventional oil pan gasket plus gives a windage tray. Only Jegs has it that I've found. There's the stock stroke one that I linked to above, or they have one for strokers too. As far as the rear seal adapter, anybody's guess is good. They always leak and I think they always will.

 

[MarPar]

Huh-huh impregnated

damn! wish i would have known bout those before! thanks tho!

i bought these a while back from scummit...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1834

wadda think there Rusty, should i use gasket sealer (ultra black etc..) with these, or put em up dry or???

 

[RustyRatRod]

I never use a sealer on a gasket. I've used an adhesive like 3M yellow weatherstrip to just hold them in place. With sealin sumffin, it's either or and not both when it comes to gaskets or sealer. There are only a couple of exceptions like when water passes through a gasket like intake gaskets. Then I like to run a thin bead around the water openings but nothing more.

 

[MarPar]

I never use a sealer on a gasket. I've used an adhesive like 3M yellow weatherstrip to just hold them in place.

sumffin like this stuff? ive got a couple sticks of it layin around...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Yeah just sumffin to stick it in place.

 

[MarPar]

Yeah just sumffin to stick it in place.

cool danks. ill give 'er a try.

 

[MarPar]

love me some Traffic

i did do oil pump/motor mount stuff tonight...but by the time i got to this keyboard, i was knee-deep in you-tube lol...i figured i'd share...:HappyNewYear:

[video=youtube;QQbSrGSoyos]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQbSrGSoyos[/video]

ill post up questions i have tomarrow when i make more sense...:laughing1:

sum 440 **** for y'all...

 

[Cornpatch MO]

When removing the oil pump, shouldn't it be re-primed? Or packed with a light grease like vasoline?..............MO

 

[RustyRatRod]

Certainly wouldn't be a terrible idea. I would just prime it outside the engine first and install it. Long as it has an oil film between the rotors it should move oil.

 

[MarPar]

Gentlemens :happy3:

I gots a few follow up questions for y'all...

took da oil pump out and put it on the bench. i notice after a couple of days that the cover for the pump is leaking (residual oil in the pump).



so i look on the internets for the two "seal rings" that da manual shows are in there and all they offer is the pump-to-block gasket that i already have.




i haven't taken the pump completely apart (yet), but i reckon i need to change out the shaft seal and pump body o-ring.

i purchased a NAPA (made by fel-pro) complete 440 gasket kit years ago and it has a bunch of gaskets and o-rings that are needed for connecting stuff to the block. there are a couple seals in there that look like they would work; but im not sure where the hell they actually go and will i need them later on for something else?? lol

if i rip this pump apart and i dont have the right seals, am i f*cked? do i have to buy a new pump? can i send money somewhere and get da new seals in a couple/few days or can i reposition and reuse the ones that are there??

as always, thank you for all your responses...:headbang:

Mario

 

[Meep-Meep]

No problem taking the oil pump apart for a peek-a-boo. Have the o-rings handy and have everything really clean going back together. Or you can just put it back on since it was probably working fine.

 

[MarPar]

No problem taking the oil pump apart for a peek-a-boo. Have the o-rings handy and have everything really clean going back together. Or you can just put it back on since it was probably working fine.

I've cleaned the mating surfaces (huh-huh) to a fresh metal sheen and I could put 'er right back on. the pump itself has worked great since i've had the car--50 psi at idle.

But i've been chasing an oil leak for a while and after seeing this, me thinks i can eliminate a piece to the puzzle--as it were.

i guess if i dont f'up the o-rings, i should be able to put it back together...

thanks Alex, ill give it a shot tomorrow and see what's what. :hello2:

 

[Meep-Meep]

The o-rings may be hard (huh-huh) and replacing them may not be a bad idea. It's only two screws (I said screw - huh huh) so you might just do it. Oh, did I just say do it?

For some reason talking cars with Mar always ends up in the gutter. I guess I better get my mind out of the gutter so Mar's can go by....ink banana:

 

[MarPar]

LMAO!! yeah, that's usu where it all flows to!! :banana::banana:

well if da o-rings are hard (lol) i can always go buy myself a couple soft, supple ones... :upside down: :upside down:

 

[RustyRatRod]

The oil pump seal is available by itself.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-13338/overview/make/dodge

It does not appear to come with either smaller o ring, but I am sure your local auto parts store can match one up as long as they are not bone stupid. Although not 100% necessary, I like to put the rotors back exactly like they came out. I've heard some old timers even talk about flipping the outer rotor over to provide a "new" wear surface.......but I personally don't like doing that. Lastly, a drop of red lock tite on each screw will assure they will not loosen up. (I said screw huh huh huh).

 

[62MAX]

The oil pump seal is available by itself.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-13338/overview/make/dodge

It does not appear to come with either smaller o ring, but I am sure your local auto parts store can match one up as long as they are not bone stupid. Although not 100% necessary, I like to put the rotors back exactly like they came out. I've heard some old timers even talk about flipping the outer rotor over to provide a "new" wear surface.......but I personally don't like doing that. Lastly, a drop of red lock tite on each screw will assure they will not loosen up. (I said screw huh huh huh).

Rusty,I think you will find the one side of the outer rotor edge is beveled,and every pump i have take apart has had the beveled edge to the cover.I'm sure there is a reason for that.I have three N.O.S. pumps and they all have the same bevel on the bottom edge.Here is a picture of one and also the difference between the standard and high volume pump.

 

[Cranky]

Since we're on the subject of pumps, does anyone besides me check the rotor end clearance? I got a newly rebuilt 340 in several years ago that had lost pressure. The drive shaft (intermediate shaft) had failed and when I removed the pump, it was stuck. After pulling the cover off, I found that there was only .001" clearance on the rotor measured with a depth mic from the body. A tiny bit of trash got lodged in there and it killed the pump which pretty much killed the engine. .001" isn't really enough with .002" being what I shoot for and .003" being max.

And on your cover leaking, you only have the two small screws holding it on and they are really more about keeping the cover in place so you can install the pump without it flopping around. Once all the other screws are in place, it shouldn't leak unless the o-rings are bad. They are usually trapped in there pretty good tho and usually they don't leak at that area. Also, while it's apart, you could take a straight edge to make sure it's flat.