$500- 68 charger

[747mopar]

That crap ticks me off "you buy new parts because the old ones are shot yet they want you to reuse them"??????????

 

[daytona kid]

And what's worse is you pay $180 for something that doesn't even fit. Guess I should have made them myself. And even worse I didn't think to check this fit before I welded the cam washer holders on, so I can't send them back and if I could I would probably ruin the holders removing them again. I plan on sending "SafeTcrap" and Auto Body Specialties an Email with this pic and ask just exactly how someone is suppose to make these work. I think I can make them work but I'll have to cut them in half, cut off the difference and weld them back together. :angryfire:

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Wow sucks to hear about those control arm mounts, at least you'll be able to make them work but that's bs

And I had a thought about the rad support stiffener, I might not be clear on all the ways it stiffens the support but would it basically get the same job done just putting the strengthening holes (like are in the stiffener) directly in the core support? I know summit has the kits to press in the dimples that add the strength, been wanting to pick some up to mess with since strengthening holes look cool to me in general too. Plus then you wouldn't have the pockets between the support and stiffener for dust/water/crud to collect

- - - Updated - - -

Damn they're pretty spendy, but I bet they could make some cool stuff
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=dimple+dies

 

[daytona kid]

I agree, holes when dimpled in "aircraft construction style", (because you're adding an L beam affect) will make some pieces of metal stronger but in this case I think you would lose strength if you punch holes in the stock support without adding the stiffener. The holes in the stiffener are mostly for welding the two parts together and keeping weight down a little, basically you're making them into one part and pretty much doubling the thickness/strength of the stock support. These are just my opinions, I can't say for sure about this particular situation but I have researched a lot of this kind of stuff over many years of modifying machines for lightness & higher performance.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Oh wait so you'd actually weld around the inside of the holes on the stiffener when you weld it onto the support?

 

[daytona kid]

Yes, the link of instructions and pics I put in post #544 says that.
"5-c. Weld core support fully including inside the flanged holes."

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Oh ok that makes more sense, sorry I didn't get around to reading those links yet. Well good luck with the control arm mounts and by the way happy thanksgiving!

 

[daytona kid]

Just ordered a set of tube A frames to help me solve the bracket problem. $290 total from Mancini, with 10% discount for Black Friday.. Didn't feel like fighting with the old ones and these are ready to bolt in.

 

[Superfreak]

No need to make them. They are still in good shape and were not to hard to remove. Making them would have pushed my limits and taken too long.

I was referring to the pieces you bought.

 

[daytona kid]

Those would have been hard for me to make also, Probably 6-8 hours of work. I look at stuff like that and think if it takes me longer to make it than if I worked the same amount of time at my job and make more than they cost I should just buy them, but I would have made them to fit. Auto Body sells them separately for $75, but they get them from SafeTcap, who sells them separate for $75 and as a set for $130. Auto Body rips you off by not offering the set and SafeTcap makes stuff that doesn't fit. So I got ripped off twice in one purchase.

 

[Superfreak]

That's to bad about those parts but don't let it irk you to much keep all the positives for the project. You are doing a wonderful job and I enjoy your up-dates and seeing your
progress, keep it up.

Robert

 

[hunt2elk]

Man that sucks bout the control arm hangers. I've yet to hear anything good about SafeTcap products. I would be pi$$ed. Seems like their stuff is made for the people who cobble things together and don't care what the structure is like. I saw ads for their frame rail and trans crossmember caps. They showed just covering up the old rusted metal with their products. Why would anyone leave rotted metal in a car they are restoring?

 

[daytona kid]

Yep, I bought some of those rear frame rail caps and was going to use them till I found the partials that I spliced in. Fortunately I was able to send the caps back. I didn't realize ABS was going to drop ship the control arm hangers from SafeTcap or I would have looked for better ones elsewhere.

 

[Ron 73]

Its a shame with all the great work you've done but its good to hear you were able to send those things back! The progress you've made is awesome, i hope you get this all fixed up and back on level ground, so to speak. Good luck to you!!

 

[747mopar]

Man that sucks bout the control arm hangers. I've yet to hear anything good about SafeTcap products. I would be pi$$ed. Seems like their stuff is made for the people who cobble things together and don't care what the structure is like. I saw ads for their frame rail and trans crossmember caps. They showed just covering up the old rusted metal with their products. Why would anyone leave rotted metal in a car they are restoring?

Dido, first time I saw they're products I thought the same thing "why would you just cover rotted out metal" makes no sense to me. Fortunately people like Daytona know better.

 

[Propwash]

Work is looking good Daytona Kid! I haven't had any good dealings with AutoRustTechnicians Safety-Cap either and sorry to see you're in the same boat. I've installed two sets of their torsion bar crossmember "caps". Hours were spent modifying them to work and the last set installed I really lost my *** on the deal. ABS (Auto Body Specialties) don't stamp/fabricate a thing. Had a few dealings with them as well, not so good. No one likes redundant work on new parts, just pisses a guy off. As you and other folks know here, it's part of the game. Guess all we can do is just alert each other on which ones are the worst. Best of luck.

 

[daytona kid]

I thought for a while the caps were the only option I had for my rusty rear rails. I could not see myself replacing the entire rails. Then someone posted a link to a restoration that used the partial rails. I did some searching and found them and that is the route I went. I'm very happy I went that way as my rails were good from the splice forward.
I should be getting my new A frames tomorrow to help me resolve this bracket issue. I think that maybe my old A frame bushings had swelled and that is what caused the not fitting problem. We shall see when I get the new A frames.

 

[steved033]

Those would have been hard for me to make also, Probably 6-8 hours of work. I look at stuff like that and think if it takes me longer to make it than if I worked the same amount of time at my job and make more than they cost I should just buy them, but I would have made them to fit. Auto Body sells them separately for $75, but they get them from SafeTcap, who sells them separate for $75 and as a set for $130. Auto Body rips you off by not offering the set and SafeTcap makes stuff that doesn't fit. So I got ripped off twice in one purchase.

I feel that. My buddy ALWAYS wants to make everything...I'm usually like "here's some you can BUY, and they're half the cost if you made them..." Personal time should be considered billable hours...

sjd

 

[daytona kid]

Yep., Making stuff that looks and works good is a good feeling but I've got enough on my plate already with this project to be looking for stuff to make., or make work>
I got my new QA1 A frames and they look great.. And with them I confirmed my suspicions. The verdict is in on the ABS/AutoRustTechnicians/SafeTcap A frame mount brackets, GUILTY AS CHARGED! They are definitely made too wide, by 1/4". I just don't understand how a company can make crap like this. Surely I am not the first person to have a problem with these. I am going to Email them and rip them a new one. I don't think anyone else makes these so I will cut them in half, remove what I need and weld them back together.

 

[Ron 73]

Its good that you have it figured out anyway, Your new QA1 A frames really do look good! I hope maybe others who are reading this thread go the same route as you ripping them a new one, maybe they will get there act together making these, making your own stuff is fun but its time consuming and you/we don't need that when were trying to get things done. I bought a new media blaster from Eastwood and the tech had me tearing the whole thing apart trying to figure why it wouldn't work right, they sent me real course media that there nozzles wasn't large enough and although i hate to admit it, it was partially operator error! I didn't have my air valve and media valve adjusted right working on what he told me to do, i would think he would mention making sure things are on and flowing right, Once they sent me the right media, ill just say i love that thing for blasting and quickly. Good luck here getting it together!!