$500- 68 charger

[440+6]

Bearings are pressed on and off, any auto parts store should have a press and should do them for free when you buy the bearings from them, the brakes look pretty good, moving right along.

 

[conv67bdere]

Got the rear-end apart and the brakes off, no surprises. Everything looks pretty good, so far.
How do you get the bearings off the axles? Or should I just leave them, clean them up and regrease? They don't look bad.

Dayona Kid - You're doing the same thing I'm doing now . . . axles . . .

My thought - I'm this far into it now, "why" would I put in OLD bearings and then wonder when they're going to go on me so I have to tear it all apart . . . My thought is spend a couple bucks now, while the whole car is apart, and put in new bearings so I'll have many years of driving fun.

The bearings, from what 747 Mopar told me, have a press fitted sleeve on the shaft - now - how to get them off ? ? ? I'll be finding out about it all myself here in a little as I've got to get new axles or shorten the ones I've got and get them re-splined. My rear narrowing with 747 Mopar went GREAT ! ! ! Pics posted on my thread.

 

[sleepar]

Take them to a shop and have them press off the old and press on the new wrap the ends and the studs in tape and don't drop them or ding them around .... handle like glass and most shops with a press won't charge much if anything if you bring a 6- pack along with....

 

[Ron 73]

Going as far and with as much care and work, I would change the bearings now and not have the worry later IF something happens.. I have my 3/4 out with the leafs and i do intend to change mine but the main reason is the car was moved around without the center section in and im just making sure there ok, But changeing them now would be a good thing, MHO...

 

[kb67mopar]

Like Sleepar says, just take them to a shop and have them press off the old and on the new. I think with press charges, new seals, the bearings and they even sand blasted my backing plates, it cost me around $100. I did have a bad bearing though. It had pretty well lost its grease.

 

[daytona kid]

Got my molasses vat set up.. Had trouble finding cheap molasses, got tired of looking, went to local Wall-mart and bought 12- 12oz jars., at $3 each. Added 6 gals of water, stirred it up, and inserted my old lower control arms, strut rods, the small rear brake parts, and a couple other things. I'll check it in a week or so.
I'll never eat molasses again, gag! :icon_puke_r:

 

[Photon440]

I get my molasses in 18KG (40 lb) pails at the feed store for $20 Canadian.

Get yourself a skimmer, or tea strainer to help remove any mold that starts to grow on the surface.

-=Photon440=-

 

[daytona kid]

Rgr tht, got one!
I removed the old perches on the rear end and putting on new ones a little closer together for the off-set hangers and shackles. Very careful measuring here.

 

[Ron 73]

That measuring stuff is what always gets to me, i wait and think its right and most of the time im on the mark, but sometimes i go over it so much i sleep about it.. Cant help it sometimes its a done deal.. anything can be repaired or changed but measure twice cut once is
imprinted" on me lol.. Looks good!

 

[hunt2elk]

I'll never eat molasses again, gag! :icon_puke_r:

LOL. Just wait until in ferments for a couple of weeks - it gets even better.

 

[Ron 73]

That doesn't sound inviting Joel!

 

[hunt2elk]

That doesn't sound inviting Joel!

I tried the rust removal molasses thing a couple of years ago, and still don't care for molasses cookies - and I have a major sweet tooth lol.

 

[Ron 73]

Try just plain old fashion sugar cookies, cant go wrong! With me its the homemade oatmeal cookies!!

 

[747mopar]

I don't want to scare you but when Kahn and I narrowed his axle we were able to keep everything really straight until we welded those perches on, welding them on pulled the axle about an 1/8" on each side. We were able to pull it back with some carefully placed heat from the torches. I could send you the bushings if you can come up with an 1 15/16" shaft so you can check it.

 

[daytona kid]

I thought about that before I welded them on, so I did it very slowly, skipped around with 1/2" beads, and used a wet rag to quench after each bead. I think I'm good. Thnx anyway!

 

[Superfreak]

Now you have brittle welds from the quenching.

 

[daytona kid]

I quenched around them not right on the beads, and slowly, so hopefully they won't be too brittle.

 

[747mopar]

I quenched around them not right on the beads, and slowly, so hopefully they won't be too brittle.

Taking a file to the weld will give you a sign of whether or not they are hardened just try it on a known mild piece of steel and compare the difference. If it is hard you can fix it, just heat it up and very slowly cool it back down if your concerned at all. Boy your car is really coming along and looking good.

 

[daytona kid]

Taking a file to the weld will give you a sign of whether or not they are hardened just try it on a known mild piece of steel and compare the difference. If it is hard you can fix it, just heat it up and very slowly cool it back down if your concerned at all. Boy your car is really coming along and looking good.

Thnx, I tried that and the file cuts the welds pretty easy. I think they're good to go.

 

[daytona kid]

I went ahead and checked the rear-end for warping, just to be sure. I rigged up a couple pieces of key stock to the flanges that stuck out top and bottom, measured between them with a dial indicator and found almost no difference. I'm thinking if it warped that would have showed it. Now I won't worry..