$500- 68 charger

[747mopar]

Don't know??????? Don't think I've ever seen an emblem or trim on a Charger door???

 

[daytona kid]

And they were only on one door..
Got a good break with the weather and was able to get the final big parts primed.. Everything went great and 1 gal was just enough.. Love that Clausen primer.. I'll let them dry a few days then soak the insides more with rust killer paint. I'll paint the door jam areas with the epoxy gloss black. Then start bolting everything on. That should keep me busy till after Christmas.

 

[Ron 73]

Man, Your winning!!! I can imagine the fun your having to, keep on it, good to see things going good for ya!!!

 

[Propwash]

Awesome!

 

[kb67mopar]

Way to git r done man!

 

[69 GTX]

Way to git R Done!

 

[daytona kid]

Thnx,. It was a blessing that the temp got up to 73 yesterday. I got the shop temp to 80, turned that 1 fan on that you can see in the earlier pic, then started spraying. The shop temp never got below 70. I left the parts in the shop with the heater on so they'd cure properly. You can see the small amount of overspray that got on my shop floor. The fan and tarp set-up has really worked good for me, but like I said "no way I'm gonna do final paint in my shop" .. I will save my bucks up for a pro final job. I may have mentioned that my uncle hooked me up with a good body/painter guy. I talked to him briefly a few weeks ago and he said he just finished painting a 69 Charger. lol.., so he should be familiar with the car..
Some may find this odd but it works good for me, I think I may have said something about it before, but everything that I've painted on this car was cleaned with my method of wiping with clean rags and isopropyl alcohol. I've been told I should wash the parts with soap and water., but I cannot see getting water in the crevices of the car before painting. I wash and wipe with the alky till the white rags stay clean then blow off with shop air.

 

[Ron 73]

Sounds like it will work out good for you the way you did it, ive never used the water myself for the same reasons and continually wiping it or them off until clean seems to have worked with me, or at least so far, the only one left with me now is my inspiration car lol, its been close to 7 years since i painted my 73 and i don't see anything wrong with the way i did it and im no expert and no fancy body shop but, im happy so it works! personally i think your on track with everything and think you'll be happy when your all done.. just my opinion but...

 

[daytona kid]

Forgive me guys but I just want to test something here. I put a link in a pm to someone on here and they said they had trouble with it so plz bare with me..> http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparf...charger/page17

Yep it isn't working for me either now, I get the "aw-Darn" error deal.. Funny, it was working right after I sent it.. I was trying to show another member here a previous page from my thread. Anyone had this problem before? If someone else would try it also to help verify working or not I'd be obliging.

 

[BigBlock61]

lets see if someone else can make it work in your thread.

Try Clicking This One

 

[daytona kid]

That worked for me then, how'd you do that?

 

[daytona kid]

Took the roll bar/s out. There was no reason to leave them in and with it out there's a lot more room to work inside. I still plan on painting or powdering them chrome but that can wait till everything else is done. Funny even with all the other stiffening stuff and not much weight on it, I could still feel the car "relax" as I loosened the bolts., and that's a good example why I'm not bolting the bar/s back in till all running weight is on it. I think a good way to understand this "relaxed or sprung" and/or weighted or not while welding and bolting stuff to the chassis is- if I had the bars bolted in then added the engine etc. the stresses would not be as evenly distributed as thet would if I add engine etc. weight then bolt the bars in., especially if I tighten the bolts from the center out, and shim under mount plates if needed, but doubt I will need to.

 

[tallhair]

Great updates Kid

You'd relax too if someone pulled that truss out of your innards after all LOL

 

[daytona kid]

Great updates Kid

You'd relax too if someone pulled that truss out of your innards after all LOL

"Truss", yea that is a good way to think of it! lol!

 

[Propwash]

Took the roll bar/s out. There was no reason to leave them in and with it out there's a lot more room to work inside. I still plan on painting or powdering them chrome but that can wait till everything else is done. Funny even with all the other stiffening stuff and not much weight on it, I could still feel the car "relax" as I loosened the bolts., and that's a good example why I'm not bolting the bar/s back in till all running weight is on it. I think a good way to understand this "relaxed or sprung" and/or weighted or not while welding and bolting stuff to the chassis is- if I had the bars bolted in then added the engine etc. the stresses would not be as evenly distributed as thet would if I add engine etc. weight then bolt the bars in., especially if I tighten the bolts from the center out, and shim under mount plates if needed, but doubt I will need to.

Looks like she came out without too much effort. I imagine it was sorta like playing in a jungle gym with it in the car. You're post is a great example of why critical chassis parts should not be secured/welded in until at full driving weight, especially to the guys welding in sub-frame connectors. Keep up the good work!

 

[daytona kid]

Yea, when I felt the car "relax" as I loosened the bolts of the roll bar, that was all the proof I needed that they do flex. I was happy tho that it was a very small amount of relaxing.
I got one door on and adjusted, somewhat,. After feeling the flex/relax situation I feel like the gaps and lines may change a little after weight is in it but they look good for the body work and final paint. Speaking of final paint, I will be meeting my possible painter soon and I am going to show him pics, etc, and ask him if he'd rather have the car running or leave it just rolling. If he charges more for none running I may be putting in a motor, etc before paint. I can see advantages and disadvantages to both ways. If he wants it running I won't have glass, interior, etc in it, nothing but the bare necessities to run and move, also it will be trailered to his shop.

Do you guys think it is best to do the paint with the car rolling (no motor,etc) or running bare?

Here's tonight's pic..

 

[Ron 73]

Again i have to say im far from a expert but myself, I want it all done and then painted, inside and trunk, door-jams is one thing but with the power plant in and then painted there is isint a chance for a screw up, just my opinion but i would have the engine, trans in it and leave the rest to do after the paint...
I know accidents can happen even putting the glass in but with the power plant installed, one worry that cant happen...

 

[daytona kid]

That's kinda what I'm leaning toward, if the painter agrees, "minimum driveable components", that way I get to drive it sooner (sitting on a milk crate) lol.. Here is a pic of where I finish painted the door jams (gloss epoxy), front hinge areas only,. since they would be difficult to get with a gun with the doors on, and there is a small chance I may not have to take the doors back off.., ha, yea right!
Tip-> Anti-Seize the door hinge bolts. I'm anti-seizing all my bolts on the car but the hinge bolts really need it since they will be tightened and loosened a lot during adjustment.

 

[daytona kid]

Got the doors on and adjusted. Will use a bungee and rags to hold them in place without the seals, latches, etc.. till final paint..

 

[Ron 73]

Wow Daytona, your buddy doesn't seem to be brimming with the excitement you are gathering up! wait until that bad boy is painted, he will be on protection duty!