$500- 68 charger

[Stevo427]

Nice. I just spent a whole hour or two reading through your whole thread. Looks great!!. Going to be using your thread for references on my car a lot. My car will be very similar to yours. Have you thought about using Swing-outs for your door bar on your cage? That's the plan with my car so I can take them off for the street. Should be certified to 8.50 in the quarter.

 

[69 GTX]

Kid are you going to fill in the side markers?

 

[daytona kid]

Kid are you going to fill in the side markers?

I'm thinking about that, if so it will be a patch tacked to the inside with filler in the hole so it can be easily put back to stock if wanted, hopefully even without bothering the final paint.

 

[daytona kid]

Nice. I just spent a whole hour or two reading through your whole thread. Looks great!!. Going to be using your thread for references on my car a lot. My car will be very similar to yours. Have you thought about using Swing-outs for your door bar on your cage? That's the plan with my car so I can take them off for the street. Should be certified to 8.50 in the quarter.

Thnx, Helping each other is a huge factor in being able to get these cars back to life. I also believe that documenting the rebuilds adds to the value of the cars, when it is done well anyway.
I have thought about the swing out door bars but I think they could possibly reduce the stiffness of the car. The door bar is a main connection to the front of the car. The whole bar system acts like the overhead structure on a bridge, adding major strength to the whole car. Don't be confused like I was at first. Mine is a 10 point roll "bar" system., A roll "cage" totally encases the driver with a few more bars. In my opinion and others, a cage can be a dangerous situation on the street. It's not to bad to hit your head on a bar with a helmet on. And I don't believe the extra bars that make a cage add a large amount of strength as far as the bridge factor/s, unless a few "tie in" bars are added in certain spots also. But all that said, a roll cage is safer (on the strip) than a roll bar no matter how fast you go.

 

[daytona kid]

I've been putting up a new fence around my backyard and haven't done much to the car but just about thru with repairs to the 2nd fender. A little prep to the trunk lid and it will be primer time for these last pieces. But to change the subject, but it is a B body, Just got thru watching "Christine" again for the 26th time, one of my favs,,. Never noticed before but there was a close up of the dash and I swear I saw 150mph on the speedo. I never new a 57 Plymouth Fury had 150 on the speedo. Is that true? Any 57 experts out there? Every time I see the movie lately I get the urge to paint my Charger blue and put Cragers on it.

 

[Photon440]

Like this?


Maybe it was an option, or a police part? But the 1958 Christine was no B-body, it had a full body on frame.

 

[Habib]

Christine is a 58 Plymouth and I saw a 58 at Carlisle with a 150 mph gauge Im pretty sure they came with them

 

[daytona kid]

But the 1958 Christine was no B-body, it had a full body on frame.

My bad, I thought I saw some where that they were based on a Belvedere so I was thinking Unit-b body.

 

[Photon440]

No biggie, Belvedere's were indeed available in the '50's, but the change to being a B-Body didn't happen until 1962.

 

[daytona kid]

The trunk lid is going to get primer along with the doors and fenders so gota get it ready. That's the last of the old blue paint, kinda sad to see it go.

 

[roadrunnerman]

off with the old, on with the new. I enjoy watching Christine every time I watch it. wish they would come out with a part 2.

 

[daytona kid]

Got another gallon of "All-U-Need" primer on the way to put on the fenders, doors, and trunk lid. I have to say that I HIGHLY recommend the products that Clausen has for our body-work needs. CDR-Charlie turned me on to the primer (which is fantastic), and I've used some of the "Z-Glass" filler also, both with perfect results. The times I've called to place an order the guys at Clausen were extremely helpful/informative and I ended up feeling super confident about how I am preping the car before the paint with their products.

 

[daytona kid]

Got my primer and everything ready but not sure if I can keep my garage warm enough for painting. It has to be 70 or above, it's cold and I usually like to ventilate the shop while I paint. May have to wait for warmer wx.

 

[Superfreak]

Ya be careful with heaters and paint, don't want to blow yourself up before Christmas.

 

[Ron 73]

x 2.. Good luck as i know waiting can sometimes bring out the worse in us... Warmer weather may give you a better paint job to...

 

[69 GTX]

Might have to crank up the heater for primer. The cold has moved in here and probably headed south!

 

[coryjones]

Welcome to empty wallet club.

 

[smyythe68]

I feel ya on the cold weather, not to mention the white $#&/ blowing around outside here in michigan. Time to fire up the heater... carefully.

 

[daytona kid]

I should have been clearer.. Getting my shop warm is not really the prob, I have a good heater but when I paint I use a couple of window fans to ventilate the shop. That keeps the over-spray off of most all of the shop and contents. Don't even want to try painting without the fans. The way I set them up makes it kinda like a low speed wind tunnel taking the paint right out. So- cold wx = no paint.

 

[747mopar]

Where I'm at you either paint in the Summer when it's warm and deal with the humidity or do it in the Winter and pray you can get the garage warm enough, loose, loose. That does suck because I want to see another Charger come together. Good luck