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$500- 68 charger

Let me clarify for those I've confused, Minor body filler and final paint will be a while coming. This is just the last big pieces that need primer. May be in primer for awhile, but I'll continue with motor, trans, etc.., hopefully soon. Found and may be buying a 400 block from a friend for $100., and building it myself to a 500ci+ stroker.
 
That does sound like a mean power plant!!! I have a 400 and a 440, the 440 is a 1975, the 400 a 73 and hear i go back and forth with when thinking about a engine to have built and get some confused reading what others say about which one to use as there all using them and think ones as good maybe as the next, been awhile since ive read a thread about one and the other but not being an engine builder lol, i get confused in my thinking, i have a 383 that came with my 69 so i imagine that's my start, Good luck with your build bud!!!
 
Yea, I have the 383 that came in my car but I feel sure it is hurt bad due setting in a field under a tree for 35 years.., the carb and distributor were missing and their holes were full of rust, rat nests and rotted pecan hulls. But even if it can be fixed I'd rather build a stroker with a 400, or 440. And I'll try to inspect the old 383 later to hopefully save for a possible future buyer of my car if I ever sell it and he wants the original motor.
 
Oh don't get me wrong, i think your on the right path, I do pray i can do the same with one of mine, i just myself don't know if after everything else ill be able to do it at the time the 69 is done, the 383 is "supposed" to be a good one but not original to the car (69 Charger) and it seems to turn over good and has the 906 heads, its clean and all but you know how that works! If not i wont have a choice about an engine build one way or the other, it will just cut into time that could be well spent having fun... you are going right i think...
 
The forecasts showed 70 for temp today which is the limit for applying my primer. I had everything ready but it never got above 63, and rain, so I had to abort. May now be spring before those parts get primed. I could have been installing them over the next weeks and getting a lot done. This really messes up my plans. Gotta think of something else to work on now. Guess I could start working on a motor but just didn't want to congest my shop up with more stuff till the bodywork was further along.
 
The forecasts showed 70 for temp today which is the limit for applying my primer. I had everything ready but it never got above 63, and rain, so I had to abort. May now be spring before those parts get primed. I could have been installing them over the next weeks and getting a lot done. This really messes up my plans. Gotta think of something else to work on now. Guess I could start working on a motor but just didn't want to congest my shop up with more stuff till the bodywork was further along.

We're both in the same boat Daytona kid . . . I need to get the inside of my driver quarter so I can get it welded back on the car . . . and the weather is not cooperating . . .

ARGH ! ! !
 
The forecasts showed 70 for temp today which is the limit for applying my primer. I had everything ready but it never got above 63, and rain, so I had to abort. May now be spring before those parts get primed. I could have been installing them over the next weeks and getting a lot done. This really messes up my plans. Gotta think of something else to work on now. Guess I could start working on a motor but just didn't want to congest my shop up with more stuff till the bodywork was further along.

You may have to build a small wood stove for heating the shop. You can always weld it up....I have a potential plan to do that myself.
 
You may have to build a small wood stove for heating the shop. You can always weld it up....I have a potential plan to do that myself.
I have heat in my shop, but when I paint I ventilate the shop with fans that pull all the paint overspray, and heat, out. In 5 minutes it would be outside temp.
I'm not sure a wood stove would be very safe while painting.
Thnx anyway..
 
NO wood stove painting, nope it wont work,,, danger!!! And although i haven't been ready to paint this time of year, ive thought the same thing and i think the fan i use to ventilate would suck the heat out faster then i can put it in lol....
 
What I did was mount an attack fan in my wall with a door where you can control the flow and then put furnace filters in the doors of the paint booth and then have duct work going from the wood burner to the door filters to heat the booth up. You'd be surprised how very little air movement you need to get the fumes out, I usually have the fan on low with it choked nearly shut and it works fine. Good luck
 
NO wood stove painting, nope it wont work,,, danger!!! And although i haven't been ready to paint this time of year, ive thought the same thing and i think the fan i use to ventilate would suck the heat out faster then i can put it in lol....

Exactly! I'm going to think of something,. I may can get it warm enough shoot a gun full, stop, turn the fans off, heat the shop up again, then shoot another gun full.
 
What I did was mount an attack fan in my wall with a door where you can control the flow and then put furnace filters in the doors of the paint booth and then have duct work going from the wood burner to the door filters to heat the booth up. You'd be surprised how very little air movement you need to get the fumes out, I usually have the fan on low with it choked nearly shut and it works fine. Good luck
That sounds like a good idea, if I had a booth. I basically turn my shop into a booth. The air comes in thru an opened doggie door in the back and on the other end I have a window fan blowing air/paint fog out under the big door on the front., thats where I try to do the painting, opposite end of the shop from my workbench and tools. This keeps almost all overspray off everything, if I stay in the corner near the exit fan.. I also put a tarp on the wall and floor in the corner where I paint because that's the only place that gets foggy. When not painting, I use a portable 220w electric heavy duty heater to heat the shop, that does good., I also leave my door going into the house open that adds a lot of heat, but not while painting either. I may could put the heater just outside the doggie door so the air gets some heat as it comes in. If not I'll get the stuff primed somehow, I'm not waiting till spring.
 
I dont know if you can but try ducting a warm air vent into garage n leave your furnace fan on to create an air movement n cut a warm air vent opening in garage door n use a inline warm air fan to move air out n you can always block it off when not in use. Like they say you will be surprised at how little air flow it takes to keep movement of over spray. I have a pellet stove in my garage n it works fine. It doesnt take as much warm air temp to dry primmer it just takes longer to cure with different temp ranges. With air movement it keeps moisture levels below normal
 
I dont know if you can but try ducting a warm air vent into garage n leave your furnace fan on to create an air movement n cut a warm air vent opening in garage door n use a inline warm air fan to move air out n you can always block it off when not in use. Like they say you will be surprised at how little air flow it takes to keep movement of over spray. I have a pellet stove in my garage n it works fine. It doesnt take as much warm air temp to dry primmer it just takes longer to cure with different temp ranges. With air movement it keeps moisture levels below normal
Sadly, ducting a warm air vent is pretty much impossible on my house due to it having a vaulted ceiling great room beside the garage so no attic to go thru. And, Yea I know how little airflow is needed, I primed the unibody and painted a lot using my fan vent method with great results, but that was in warm wx. Thnx, for mentioning the dry/cure time thing also, I was thinking I'll bring the parts back in the warm house to cure as soon as they are dry enough to handle, if they don't stink up the house to much.. I'll figure out a way thru this, Thnx for the ideas anyway guys!
 
I was mostly thinking you could heat the garage for a few days, get the concrete warm etc...then when you paint the room should stay fairly warm. Then after you get done and the fumes die down you could heat it back up to bake the paint.
 
I was mostly thinking you could heat the garage for a few days, get the concrete warm etc...then when you paint the room should stay fairly warm. Then after you get done and the fumes die down you could heat it back up to bake the paint.
That is a very good idea and possible option! My electric heater and leaving the door into the house open gets it very warm in the shop. I also have a fan set up blowing warm air thru the door from in the house into the shop, but not while painting.
 
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You might want to think twice about using any fan for exhausting the fumes if it does not have an explosion proof motor, you may find yourself going "BOOM"
The fan I used to exhaust the dust from the blast booth I made evan had an explosion proof motor to prevent me from going "BOOM".
 
I did all of the primer for most of the whole car with 2 fans which are brushless. So either I'm lucky or they are boom proof. But I also keep the air really blowing so it can't build up enough fumes to make a boom. The primer does good like this but I won't be doing the final paint in my shop, as I don't think this method would work well for a quality final paint job.
 
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Can someone identify these 3 holes for me? Some optional trim I assume... I am going to try to prime the doors and fenders tomorrow and was doing the final prep on one of the doors when I noticed these holes. They were filled with bondo. I may weld them up.
 

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