daytona kid
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He's tired, helping with those doors wore him out.
$500- 68 charger
- Thread starter daytona kid
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daytona kid
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Finally the front fenders.. One down, one to go. I may have to take them back off in the future, I didn't put any of the splash shielding in. I may put some type of plastic or rubber home made splash shields in them., just thinking outloud.
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daytona kid
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Black I guess,. I had thought about red but I think I've painted to many areas black (door jams, engine bay, etc.) to go red or any other color now. It may be quite a while before the final paint since I may be doing a lot of the filler, sanding, and other prep work to help keep my painting bill low. I also may get it running (moving under it's own power) prior to paint also..
But I can still dream>
cdr
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lookin great kid!!!
Propwash
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Cool beans!! Another mean black Charger to hit the streets. My condolences go out to you and your elbows..lol Block sanding for a black car is always a bear! Pay off in the end, having a laser straight black paint job is well worth it. As far as how to deliver the car to the painter, i'd just ask the painter. I would guess your panels will be coming off/on a couple times during body work anyways. Anyways, great to see your Dodge so close to the next big stage of paint.
daytona kid
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Yea, it feels good to get to this point, it seems more like a car now. But like I said, It is going to be quite a while before final paint no matter what the painter says as far as running or not., unless I hit the loto! lol.. I am really thinking it would be better to have the motor and most of final weight in it because I'm pretty sure the door and/or fender gaps may change after weighted. So my thinking is it may be beneficial to have most everything heavy where and how it's going to live, adjust doors and fenders as or if needed, then final paint.
Here's some pics of the last fender going on, and the gaps. That top front driver door gap (3rd pic) kinda bugs me, I must have bumped that fender on the shop floor to much. May have to weld a tad on that.
I may be de-fossilizing the grill and it's frame, etc.. next.. It is pretty crusty!
Here's some pics of the last fender going on, and the gaps. That top front driver door gap (3rd pic) kinda bugs me, I must have bumped that fender on the shop floor to much. May have to weld a tad on that.
I may be de-fossilizing the grill and it's frame, etc.. next.. It is pretty crusty!
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daytona kid
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I have found another 400 block for $100. If it checks bad I get my $100 back. Guess I may be building a motor. This should free up a little more money for the paint job. I'm hoping I can get 500hp with a stroker kit and etc.. I think the CME engines that I was considering, that made 500hp, were about $7000. So what do you guys estimate I'll spend building my own 400 block 500hp stroker, if I start with a bare block? Anyone done that and added up your receipts?
cdr
Well-Known Member
you are going to get lots of opinions 
about 7000.00 carb to pan,, going with a flat tappet cam & stealth type heads,& you doing all the labor.
heads 1200.00
stroker kit 2300.00
valve train 1400.00
intake & carb 800.00
mis parts 500.00
machine work 1500.
this is just a ballpark.
about 7000.00 carb to pan,, going with a flat tappet cam & stealth type heads,& you doing all the labor.heads 1200.00
stroker kit 2300.00
valve train 1400.00
intake & carb 800.00
mis parts 500.00
machine work 1500.
this is just a ballpark.
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Daytona i think cdr there has you covered! Good deal when you cant loose and i hope its a good one, id be very interested in the build, i have a 73 400 engine here on a stand, its a constant fight in my head to use it, or the 440 block i have, Good luck!!!
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
My thinking is if you want a car to race, mod away., but if you want it to be more for street or original, try to stay close to stock or oem. And if you have a valuable or rare car, leave it or make it stock/original, or at least where it can be put back stock/original. The rarer or more valuable it is, the more I'd leave or make it as close to original as I could. Just my opinion..
Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
I agree completely Daytona!! I have a 383 and its period (year correct) But i do have the 440 and 400 and would love to build someday a good mean engine, my 383 isint original to the car anyway and i think one of them would be a fun project to someday do, maybe ill never get it done but it sounds so good on paper, the only thing is it takes a lot of the green back papers to make it work right! lol.. i have time and maybe ill change my mind and do another car someday if i can, time will tell but i do think your going to have fun with the way you may be going...
I think you can easily get 500 from a 440 with out a stroker. If I were going to go the stroker route I'd go as big as I could because I'm sure a 451 and a 512 are the same money as as long as you're heads will support them.
cdr
Well-Known Member
if you already have a 440 then yes build that,but if not go low deck stroker
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
if you already have a 440 then yes build that,but if not go low deck stroker
Could you remind me/us what are the benefits of going with the low deck? And is a low deck same as a 400 or are there other low deck motors? I do remember you saying and found out that the 400s are cheaper than the 440s to buy. And I think someone said they are stronger as far as block failure. And the ci limit is 512 on 400 strokers?
747mopar
Well-Known Member
383s are also low decks, the first BBs were low blocks and then they introduced the RB (raised block) which had an extra 3/4" cylinder height. This obviously meant the low decks were shorter, lighter blocks but the other advantage is the larger bore (larger than the 440) of the 400 combined with the longer stroked 440. I've also read that they are a very rigid durable block as well.
cdr
Well-Known Member
747 summed it up
- - - Updated - - -
& yes 512 is as big as you should go on a 400 block
- - - Updated - - -
& yes 512 is as big as you should go on a 400 block
The car is really looking great with all the panels on Kid. I just had a 451 put together using a 440 Source kit and their heads. Dyno'd at 522 hp. I'd have to add everything up, but I don't think I had quite $7k in it. One advantage to the 400 is if you are planning on using a Edelbrock RPM intake, it will be easier getting hood/air cleaner clearance than with a 440.
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