daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Nope, saw that one. I don't see anything in that pic that I'm missing that would hold the center shaft from moving back/up.. Thnx for trying.
$500- 68 charger
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daytona kid
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I may have figured it out, I didn't put these bolts in because it looked like they didn't do anything.. lol
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...81-What-do-these-2-square-headed-bolts-secure
Yep, that was it! That was the hardest problem to figure out that I've had as far as finding the answer on the internet, not much out there on it.. My own fault for not paying attention when dissembling, and not reading the service manual twice. Steering column ready for install.. Need to order that adapter coupler now.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...81-What-do-these-2-square-headed-bolts-secure
Yep, that was it! That was the hardest problem to figure out that I've had as far as finding the answer on the internet, not much out there on it.. My own fault for not paying attention when dissembling, and not reading the service manual twice. Steering column ready for install.. Need to order that adapter coupler now.
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daytona kid
Well-Known Member
I want to thro a compliment out to the Firm-Feel guys. When I went thru my manual steering box I found some slight pits in the end race on the worm shaft that were making it feel a little ruff. I was looking at new ones, couldn't really find any stock ones but saw where the quick ratio ones are about $250. So, I was going to live with the bad one till I could find another whole box. When I called Firm-Feel to order the coupling adapter I needed, I asked if they had any stock worm shafts, duh! Sure they have them, laying in piles!, from where they take them out to put in the quick ratio ones. They let me have what looked like a brand new one for $50. Bravo Firm-Feel! http://www.firmfeel.com/b_body_mopar_manual_steering_box_rebuild.html
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daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Got the steering column in and feeling good, smooth and no slop. Also took the door bar off, put the seat in and figured out a good spot for the e-brake. I think it will work out good there and be pretty easy to hook up a rod or cable back to the rear cables. It fits perfectly between the 2 seat plates there and will bolt to each of them for strength.
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Ron 73
Deceased, But not forgotton
Wow bud, your making us look bad, kind-ah and giving us some ideas that i don't want to explain to her...
Glad to see you have a 4 legged supervisor!
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Yea, Interesting thing, Sissy was the thread pic star and always stayed by me, then when she went to doggy heaven a year ago (sob, miss her soooo much) Skip took over duty as my body guard.
Finished the E brake, works great! I added about 2.5ft of solid 1/4in rod to make it reach the back cables. That handle off the Cherokee was a good find for me since it is a mopar part, even has a mopar emblem stamped on it, sry didn't get a pic of that. Will put some seam sealer around it before the carpet goes in.
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Great idea Daytona Kid on the Jeep E-brake . . . my daughter seized up the engine in her Toyota Camry, and I was going to take the E-brake out of it for my car . . . but now I may take a trip to the local pull a part yard and see if I can find a Jeep E-brake handle too . . .
Looking good Daytona Kid . . . keep up the great work and thanks for posting your progress . . .
Looking good Daytona Kid . . . keep up the great work and thanks for posting your progress . . .
Great job!
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Thanks Conv.. My roll/door bar was in the way for me to be able to use my stock pedal e-brake so I had to do the hand brake, if not for that I would have kept the stock one. Not sure what your reason is but think about it.
BigBlock61
Well-Known Member
The one reason I can think of is with sub frame connectors that weld to the floor. There doesn't seem to be a good way to make the stock e brake work, unless I haven't researched it enough.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
If my bad memory serves, seems like my sub frames came with instructions that talked about drilling holes for the e cable prior to installing. Of coarse I ignored that.
BigBlock61
Well-Known Member
From the looks of it, yours is a cleaner install than drilling. Seriously dude you did a great job on the e brake.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
Started getting the doors ready for primer. There are a couple of small rust spots on them that need patching. I tried out a new method (for small patches) of tracing a patch out with paper, transferred it to metal, welded it in and ground it down. A little filler now and it'll be good to go.
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Propwash
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Nice work. Looks like the Surgery went well.
daytona kid
Well-Known Member
I could use some help guys. I'm trying to get the brake bracket/s, etc. back together under the dash by the steering column. I borrowed this pic from cdr but it isn't close enough. If anyone has some closer pics of that up left under dash area or could take some for me or knows where some are, I sure would be obliged.
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cdr
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daytona kid
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Thnx Charlie! I was wondering if you had any more.
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