$500- 68 charger

[Ron 73]

Buddy, I do pray it gets better for you! Its something to see a man doing his dream and having to do it the way you do.. Pain is pain, miserable it is.. If your uncle cant help, look at East-woods tools, One in particular is the 15 in block sander, these cars are big, a right fitting block sander is a good way to keep things good...

 

[daytona kid]

I hope it never gets that bad for me but my back is having one of it's fits right now but working is what seams to bring me comfort, that and laying on the floor. My injury isn't as much from crashes although I had my share but more from a repetitious pounding, I liked to push it and jumping was my favorite which results in plenty of cased jumps which is what finally did me in. I often look back on the advice the elderly gave me and think "why didn't I listen", I'll be dealing with this for the rest of my life. Glad to see your not willing to lay down but instead just dig in and keep enjoying what you love.

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I think like you the Charger is just a safe way to extend my love for speed and power (without the pain)!

The last moto-x I raced in I landed right on a dude that crashed in front of me on a long double jump. I thought I had killed him and I pulled off the track. He was hurting but walked away, with some help. Later I apologized for the accident (that wasn't my fault) and he said "that's ok, I'll get you back". I said "No you won't, because that was my last race!". I had had enough..

 

[cdr]

just keep pushin Kid, prayers to ya , i understand the pain.

 

[747mopar]

The last moto-x I raced in I landed right on a dude that crashed in front of me on a long double jump. I thought I had killed him and I pulled off the track. He was hurting but walked away, with some help. Later I apologized for the accident (that wasn't my fault) and he said "that's ok, I'll get you back". I said "No you won't, because that was my last race!". I had had enough..

Smart thinking haha, best wishes to ya and I'll be hoping to see this Charger moving under it's own power soon.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Keep on keepin on, kid! Warm weather is rapidly approaching!
ccasion14:

 

[69 GTX]

Warm weather sure makes the bone feel better!

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

Oh and sounds like you're already on to something with the clausen filler (that All-u-need primer they make is awesome!), but I really like 3m's platinum plus filler. It's a bit spendy but I "know a guy," and it sands like a dream with pretty much zero air bubbles

 

[Ron 73]

Good to hear your not killing your body man, been awhile and i do hope things are some better, keep on keeping on, slow some of us are but in the end its heated seats for the back (somehow i have to get them, my Kia has me convinced! )... And raw power from the Mopar fix we are engaged in!

 

[GetX'd]

I've always been intensely curious what one would have to spend to bring one of these cars back to life. Both ways, doing it mostly yourself - or having a shop do a lot of the body and interior work?

I spent a lot of money on my car and I'm not fluid in a lot of the more complicated stuff - cause I stored it for 35 years and traveled the country and world. Work and pleasure. Have always wondered how much $$ others spend to bring them back from the dead.

 

[Greg_1963]

Just spent some time looking through your thread. A couple of things one awesome job so far! Secondly your willingness to go deeper into a project than you thought possibly makes me confident I will be successful completing my car as it should be instead of taking shortcuts. One question that I do have is with the primer that you are using. My car has been in primer for an unknown but extended period of time. The roof and hood both had rust work through the primer. I sanded the surfaces down to metal but there is some discoloring and minor pitting left. Does the all u need primer neutralize the rust or is there something else I would need to prep the metal and then use the primer?

 

[daytona kid]

Just spent some time looking through your thread. A couple of things one awesome job so far! Secondly your willingness to go deeper into a project than you thought possibly makes me confident I will be successful completing my car as it should be instead of taking shortcuts. One question that I do have is with the primer that you are using. My car has been in primer for an unknown but extended period of time. The roof and hood both had rust work through the primer. I sanded the surfaces down to metal but there is some discoloring and minor pitting left. Does the all u need primer neutralize the rust or is there something else I would need to prep the metal and then use the primer?

Thanks Greg.. The All-U-Need will kill rust but I also used some of the Rust-Bullet coating in bad spots, like my roof., just for some added insurance. Most all of my rust was media-blasted away but I put the Rust-Bullet in places where I was worried about returning rust. The All-U-Need was called Rust-Defender but they added some stuff and changed the name. It has zinc in it which kills rust also. So you can probably use the All-U-Need and be just as safe as anything else. It is like a plastic coating., It is a polyester which is basically plastic. And it is very sticky which you'll find out when spraying it on, your shoes get stuck to the floor! lol., no joke.. And it acts as a guide coat during sanding and for applying filler. And filler/bondo can be put on over it. There are many good reasons to use All-U-Need, and you can read about them in their ads, but the main thing I liked was that you can't mess up with it, it can go over or under anything, it's compatible with every type of body filler, paint, and other coating. It sands as good after 2 years as after 2 weeks. The main thing I think should be done with these cars to help make them last for another 50-100 years is to get whatever primer/rust-killer/paint/coating you use way down into the tiny cracks and seams where media blasting can't get. I sprayed in all the seams and crevices till it ran out the other side and on the floor. The only other way to get it better is to dip the whole car in acid or whatever they are using in the dip processes now, which costs big bucks, if you can find a place to do it in your part of the world.

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I've always been intensely curious what one would have to spend to bring one of these cars back to life. Both ways, doing it mostly yourself - or having a shop do a lot of the body and interior work?

I spent a lot of money on my car and I'm not fluid in a lot of the more complicated stuff - cause I stored it for 35 years and traveled the country and world. Work and pleasure. Have always wondered how much $$ others spend to bring them back from the dead.

I'll let you know what I've spent so far. I've been wanting to know myself and will be adding up the receipts soon. It's kinda tuff to separate parts, tools, equipment, and materials. But I'll try to add up just what has gone on the car so far.

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

That's a perfect description of All-U-Need! Great stuff :icon_thumleft:

 

[daytona kid]

I should add, for Greg and anyone else interested, that I did use a few other different products/coatings in different areas. You may have seen a while back where I used the Eastwood inner frame rust killer. And I used it in many other places than just inner frame areas. I sprayed it everywhere I could get the nozzle tubes in, and reused the nozzle tubes that comes with it with Walmart $.99 spray paint, inside doors and places where the quality of paint doesn't matter, and places that were never painted before from the factory. And I used the VHT "glossatin"black epoxy for finish coats on the entire bottom, engine bay, door jams, everywhere that won't get painted with the exterior. These cars were rusty before they left the factories and dealers, but lasted this long. That's why I say, if we de-rust and recoat all areas they should last another 50 years at least. My 1st 70 RR had a rusty trunk when I got it and was only 6 months old.

 

[Greg_1963]

Thanks for the additional information. I have not spent a lot of time under the car yet but planned on using the frame rust killer. I will have to do some research on the VHT products for the bottom of the car. I am planning on painting the engine bay and trunk body color, Just not sure what body color will be.

Thanks again for the information you shared with your project and products used!
Greg

 

[daytona kid]

You're very welcome sir! VHT epoxy was just my choice because of a good deal I get on it, and it was easier to get into the tight spots with it. It is good stuff tho.

I finished up getting the passenger door latch working, and clean. I may have to go back and clean the drivers a little more. They will probably have to come back off when I paint anyway, not sure yet.

 

[tallhair]

Great work

thanks for sharing kid

 

[BigBlock61]

You're very welcome sir! VHT epoxy was just my choice because of a good deal I get on it, and it was easier to get into the tight spots with it. It is good stuff tho.

I finished up getting the passenger door latch working, and clean. I may have to go back and clean the drivers a little more. They will probably have to come back off when I paint anyway, not sure yet.

So that's what the door latch on the door is suppose to look like. Mine is just a big hole with spider web cracks in it LOL

 

[daytona kid]

Got the 400 block today, looks good to me.. Casting date is 9/30/74.. I checked the bore and it was stock/4.34 with maybe .05 slop and a little minor surface rust. But I'm pretty sure I'll need to go with a cleaned up .30 over rebore anyway. Looking for best deal on a 512 stroker kit now, any recommendations? I know 440 Source is a good kit but are there any others comparable to theirs at a lower price? I talked to a bud of mine that has a racing engine business (w/ dyno, head flow bench, etc, etc..) about a mile from my house and he said he would help with what I can't do. He has a famous son that races nascar, but I'll leave out his name since he may not want the publicity. I think I'm going with 10-1 compression on this motor so I can still run pump gas., but build it for a little n2o also.

 

[daytona kid]

What's everyone's opinion on these SS motor bolt kits?, strong enough?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-BIG-B...EX-BOLT-KIT-/300332101497?hash=item45ed302f79

 

[conv67bdere]

I'll let some of the other experts answer that for you, but my understanding is that stainless is a softer metal ? ?

My understanding is Grade 8 is very strong, but that makes it brittle.
For anything that vibrates ( engines ) grade 5 is preferred . . .

I'll be looking for this answer too . . . so please don't take my answer a gospel . . . I'll be watching.

Nice to see you back at the car, and that was quite the story about racing . . . YEOW ! ! !