'64 Fury Pro-Touring

[malex]

Hey fellas,

Like I said, I pretty much knew what I was getting into when I bought my pieces, I mean, they're meant for a race car not a show car, though admittedly, the hood and deck lid being too small is annoying as hell and I'm not sure how that much size could be lost when pulling the mold from a original factory piece. Regardless, I'll press on and get it knocked out within a couple days.
Hey CK, looking forward to seeing you during SEMA. When I bought my glass parts there were really no alternatives as to which company I bought them from, so I went with what was available. Even with the issues, I'm still pretty happy with my decision, the steel parts are SO friggin' heavy!!!
That jig you built (Malex) is a terrific idea, but luckily I don't seem to have the same issues; yeah, I've got some waves but nothing heinous enough that I'd have to make a jig for either part. In fact, I've blocked the hood and was surprised to find only a couple low spots right near the center, which I first skimmed with kitty hair and next will skim with body filler. Luckily, that spot will be covered (I think) by the front edge of the scoop.
I've got some more pix I'll be posting in a little while showing the progress I made yesterday on extending the edges.

There's one thing for certain Fury, you are one pretty easy going and determined guy! The fact is that the term "race weight" doesn't mean that fibreglass can be garbage. For your hood, trunk and fenders to be so out of wack it's clearly a procedure issue with absolutely no quality control. While you're working on that hood, a good time to put some decent corners on at the rear, those rounded corners look like crap.
Anyways...
I crossed over the border today and picked up my bumpers that I ordered from AAR Fibreglass. When I looked at them it made me pissed off all over again at the junk fibreglass that we ended up with.. Check them out.

Notice the nice heavy cardboard box they came in, heavy staples, properly boxed.

Bumpers are NICE! And properly wrapped and taped ensuring no damage.

Both front and rear bumpers are straight, smooth and lightweight. Nothing more than a scuff prior to paint.

Below is what Sled City sends with a no return policy that comes out when you complain.. And to top it off, the AAR bumpers cost less too!

Fury, thanks for the compliment on the hood jig. I had no choice, the hood that I got only had 2 strips of reinforcement running front to back, yours at least has 4. It has to be secured with the right contour for when the scoop is bonded on. Good luck going forward.

 

[malex]

It's been a little while since I posted but I have been getting some work done; I've been pushing on to more of the body work while I wait for some steel supplies to arrive; I want to add the roll bar tubes that run forward from the main hoop to the foot wells but I needed to order the square base plates to mount them to the floor.

I stripped and primed all the radiator core support, bumper filler, and hood latch support pieces; luckily none of them had been rusted or previously damaged so they helped me to rebuild the front of the car accurately a couple years ago.

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That was the easy part, but I knew sooner or later I'd have to get back to the hood, which, for whatever reason, is probably 1/2" - 3/4" too narrow.
I laid the hood upside down, sanded the underside surface up to about 1" from the edge, then laid down a couple layers of fiberglass that extended over the edges by about 3/4". My next step will be to flip the hood over, remove any high spots from the added glass, then build up the surface of the new glass to match the hood surface. One mistake I made was not supporting the additional glass as well as I should have so the additional glass is somewhat wavier than I'd have liked, but working with glass is so much easier than metal working I'm not worried about it.
Here are a couple shots of the hood, the first showing the under-lament I laid the glass on, and the second showing the glass additions. If you're wondering, I use wax paper to line the under-lament so the glass and resin won't stick.

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While waiting for the glass/resin on the hood to dry I un-boxed the trunk lid, which I hadn't done in many years, and having never tried to fit it to the car I had no idea what to expect. Sadly, I was disappointed as can be for a couple reasons:
1) I don't know about any other '64 models but on a Fury there are cut-outs on the vertical rear panel of the trunk lid where the trunk wraps up and around the tail lights, but for whatever reason they weren't cut out of my lid. No big deal, but...
2) The fit was even worse than my hood; the trunk lid was easily 1" too narrow! Damn, here I go again having to widen a body panel.
The only benefit of doing the trunk lid was now that I'd done the hood I've learned a couple things and it made the job much easier, but I still have lots more filling, sanding, etc. than I'd like.
Here are some shots of the lid:

In this first shot you can see the blue painters tape where I'd marked off the center-line of the lid in preparation for making some hinge mounts (yeah, I'm using the factory hinges, not pins) and this is when the gravity of the situation really hit me. The gaps looked awfully big when I test fit the lid but proof was in measuring from the center-line to the outer edges; NO BUENO!

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Here I've sanded the outer perimeter 1" in from the edge and added the under-layment/wax-paper.

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This last shot shows how I've added 2 - 3 layers of glass matting and resin to extend the edges of the lid. Next I'll flip the lid over, put it on the car and trim down the excess, leaving the gaps VERY tight, then begin filling from the top to get a uniform surface. Once the surfaces are uniform I'll move on to making the hinge mounts, get the trunk centered up, then trim the lid to fit correctly. The factory hinges are anything but stable, there's probably 3/4" play side to side on each hinge without the lid bolted in place, but I believe by bolting the lid to the hinges it will eliminate this "wobble" and the lid will fit really well.

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Just a thought on your rear deck hinge plan. The stock deck hinges are approx. 3/4" square or so. Seeing that you're going to use the hinges, perhaps a square tube that the stock hinges could slide into could be encapsulated onto the decklid? Worth a thought, would give you good adjustment ability. Good luck.

 

[Satans Fury]

Just a thought on your rear deck hinge plan. The stock deck hinges are approx. 3/4" square or so. Seeing that you're going to use the hinges, perhaps a square tube that the stock hinges could slide into could be encapsulated onto the decklid? Worth a thought, would give you good adjustment ability. Good luck.

I LOVE that idea, only wish I'd thought of it!!!!! I'll be looking for some square stock that fits snugly over the hinges. Thanks for the hint Mal.

 

[Satans Fury]

So below are the pix I took a couple days ago showing the progress I made increasing the width of the hood and trunk lid. I'm not sure who said it, maybe Malex, but I'm going to take their advice and square off the rear corners of the hood; the rounded corners that came from Sled City look out of place.

Here are a couple shots looking down on the hood just after removing the under-lament:

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I definitely learned some lessons on the hood that I applied to the trunk lid; the lid took much less work to get to this point, and came out better for it:

I haven't taken any pix of the first round of Kitty Hair I applied but will get them taken and posted by this weekend. The results, so far, have been excellent so I'll just keep pounding along.

 

[malex]

So below are the pix I took a couple days ago showing the progress I made increasing the width of the hood and trunk lid. I'm not sure who said it, maybe Malex, but I'm going to take their advice and square off the rear corners of the hood; the rounded corners that came from Sled City look out of place.

Here are a couple shots looking down on the hood just after removing the under-lament:

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I definitely learned some lessons on the hood that I applied to the trunk lid; the lid took much less work to get to this point, and came out better for it:

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I haven't taken any pix of the first round of Kitty Hair I applied but will get them taken and posted by this weekend. The results, so far, have been excellent so I'll just keep pounding along.

It's coming good over there Fury! Keep going! I'm not sure if you are going with fibreglass bumpers but if you are and haven't made any brackets yet I could help you out. I just mounted the rear bumper that I got from AAR today. NICE stuff! Here's some rear bumper pics in case you're installing fibreglass bumpers.

3/4" plywood fit to the bumper. The plywood has 5/16" bolts pressed/sunk into the plywood.

Plywood bonded and encapsulated to the bumper and attached to the fab'd brackets.

1/4 X 2" aluminum flat used.

And the bumper bolted in place. Now it can come off and be prepped / painted. The stock bumper and brackets weighted 38 LBS. The new set up is 9 LBS.

Talk about a nice quality fibreglass bumper. AAR.

 

[Satans Fury]

It's coming good over there Fury! Keep going! I'm not sure if you are going with fibreglass bumpers but if you are and haven't made any brackets yet I could help you out. I just mounted the rear bumper that I got from AAR today. NICE stuff! Here's some rear bumper pics in case you're installing fibreglass bumpers.

3/4" plywood fit to the bumper. The plywood has 5/16" bolts pressed/sunk into the plywood.
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Plywood bonded and encapsulated to the bumper and attached to the fab'd brackets.
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1/4 X 2" aluminum flat used.
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And the bumper bolted in place. Now it can come off and be prepped / painted. The stock bumper and brackets weighted 38 LBS. The new set up is 9 LBS.
View attachment 532132
Talk about a nice quality fibreglass bumper. AAR.

Hey Mal,

Yeah, the bumpers will be coming up soon and I was thinking of some type of ply mounting point as well, but had not thought of replacing the heavy steel brackets, but now having seen yours, yep, the stock mounts are going in the trash!
Thanks much for the regular updates and pictures, they are a great help and very much appreciated!

 

[Satans Fury]

Got back into the shop yesterday and sanded down the first layer of Kitty Hair around the perimeter of the hood and deck lid; very pleased with the results. I knew I'd have to put down at least one more layer of Kitty Hair but wanted to make sure the first layer bonded with the original glass of the hood/deck lid and the additional glass I'd added, so I gave it a day or so to cure properly.
Once I'd sanded off the excess I used a die grinder to rough up the low spots as well as create a trough so the next layer of Kitty Hair would have more surface area to adhere to. Once that was done I slathered on a thick layer of Kitty Hair, which I'll now be sanding and contouring to shape.
Boring as hell to look at but here are a couple shots after I slathered on the second coat of KH:

This is one edge of the deck lid:

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This is one edge of the hood:

You can see how thick the KH is laid on, but unlike plastic body-fillers, KH has no issues with being laid on thick.
Once I've sanded and contoured the KH I'll go ahead and start the blocking process then move on to the bumpers and roll bar.

 

[Satans Fury]

It's coming good over there Fury! Keep going! I'm not sure if you are going with fibreglass bumpers but if you are and haven't made any brackets yet I could help you out. I just mounted the rear bumper that I got from AAR today. NICE stuff! Here's some rear bumper pics in case you're installing fibreglass bumpers.

3/4" plywood fit to the bumper. The plywood has 5/16" bolts pressed/sunk into the plywood.
View attachment 532130
View attachment 532131

Plywood bonded and encapsulated to the bumper and attached to the fab'd brackets.
View attachment 532135
View attachment 532134

1/4 X 2" aluminum flat used.
View attachment 532133

And the bumper bolted in place. Now it can come off and be prepped / painted. The stock bumper and brackets weighted 38 LBS. The new set up is 9 LBS.
View attachment 532132
Talk about a nice quality fibreglass bumper. AAR.

Hey Mal,

Thought I'd let you know I ordered a couple pieces of 3" x 1/4" 6061 bar stock today so I'll be mimicking your bumper mounts (on both front and rear); thanks for the idea!

 

[malex]

Hey Mal,

Thought I'd let you know I ordered a couple pieces of 3" x 1/4" 6061 bar stock today so I'll be mimicking your bumper mounts (on both front and rear); thanks for the idea!

Hey good news! More headway over there. I guess that's a way to make race weight fibreglass - make the hood and deck lid narrower. Haha.
I used 2 X 1/4" for the rear and that worked good but your 3" will be just fine.
Check the pics of the front brackets. I used 1/8" X 2 steel for those - no means to weld aluminum here. I drilled holes to lighten them up and the marker light plug slips through when the lights are mounted.
Today I sprayed the rear bumper and tomorrow it will get a sand and polish, then it can go on. The color matched bumpers will look good on the car. And my scoop and engine plate will show up next week over here! Thank goodness, I'm was running out of things to do!

You can see the front brackets. They bolt directly onto the flat frame brackets on the car. I believe it needs a 14 degree slope for the bumper and the inner side piece is about 3/4" longer because of the V shape of the bumper.
Look how ugly (wavey) the top of that bumper was. It took a hell of a lot of work to get it straight, hope yours isn't as bad as this one was. I also had to build the signal light hole edges up so the lights would look nice when mounted.

Another picture of the front and brackets. 10 lbs including brackets and bolts.

Rear bumper got gold and 3 coats of clear today. Rear bumper is 31lbs lighter than the steel one and brackets.

Angle iron swing arm makes painting a breeze. Flip it back and forth to get top / bottom.

Ok here's some motivation for you Fury. Get at er!

 

[Satans Fury]

Hey good news! More headway over there. I guess that's a way to make race weight fibreglass - make the hood and deck lid narrower. Haha.
I used 2 X 1/4" for the rear and that worked good but your 3" will be just fine.
Check the pics of the front brackets. I used 1/8" X 2 steel for those - no means to weld aluminum here. I drilled holes to lighten it up and the marker light plug slips through when the lights are mounted.
Today I sprayed the rear bumper and tomorrow it will get a sand and polish, then it can go on. The color matched bumpers will look good on the car. And my scoop and engine plate will show up next week over here! Thank goodness, I'm was running out of things to do!

You can see the front brackets. They bolt directly onto the flat frame brackets on the car. I believe it needs a 14 degree slope for the bumper and the inner side piece is about 3/4" longer because of the V shape of the bumper.
Look how ugly (wavey) the top of that bumper was. It took a hell of a lot of work to get it straight, hope yours isn't as bad as this one was. I also had to build the signal light hole edges up so the lights would look nice when mounted.
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Another picture of the front and brackets. 10 lbs including brackets and bolts.
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Rear bumper got gold and 3 coats of clear today. Rear bumper is 31lbs lighter than the steel one and brackets.
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Angle iron swing arm makes painting a breeze. Flip it back and forth to get top / bottom.
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Ok here's some motivation for you Fury. Get at er!

Mal, I cannot begin to thank you enough for all the pix and tips; they are absolutely invaluable!
I ended up buying way more aluminum than I'll need (72" long) but I figured I might need it somewhere else. As for the front mounts, I've got the steel I need "in house" already so those should be a breeze.
The bumpers themselves haven't been out of their boxes for a few years so I have NO idea what I'm going to see when they come out, but hopefully they'll be more smooth/straight than yours.

Thanks again for all the pix!!

 

[malex]

Mal, I cannot begin to thank you enough for all the pix and tips; they are absolutely invaluable!
I ended up buying way more aluminum than I'll need (72" long) but I figured I might need it somewhere else. As for the front mounts, I've got the steel I need "in house" already so those should be a breeze.
The bumpers themselves haven't been out of their boxes for a few years so I have NO idea what I'm going to see when they come out, but hopefully they'll be more smooth/straight than yours.

Thanks again for all the pix!!

No worries Fury, glad to be able to help. Over here the new AAR rear glass bumper is on.
After the work the front bumper took this rear bumper was a breeze. Besides the 2 main mounting brackets I also made corners brackets as well. You'll be at this point soon Fury.

 

[Satans Fury]

This is getting pretty boring but I figure I need to continue documenting the fiberglass hood and trunk lid saga, so here goes.

I'm stunned but the hood is actually coming along pretty well, the extensions I've added to both widen and lengthen the hood have worked out really well and during the sanding process I've got the hood pretty much blocked so once the primer goes on it SHOULD be a pretty quick process to finish it. Below are some shots.

I left myself quite a bit of wiggle room along both edges so I'll have plenty of material to work with when I trim the hood to fit, including the rear corners which will have pointed corners instead of the rounded corners supplied on the hood (thanks for the heads up, Malex!).

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Yeah, well, the hood may be coming out OK but the trunk lid is another matter entirely, and for reasons I definitely did not expect.
1)
When Sled City pulled their molds off a steel trunk lid they never went back and touched up their molds to eliminate blemishes left by pin stripes, tape, etc. Yeah, that's right, as soon as I took a sanding block to the trunk lid the pin stripes and tape blemishes immediately appeared. Again, WTF?
I've tried to be patient and not throw accusations around but this has finally pushed me over the edge; Sled City needs to get their **** together, period. I spent my younger years around drag boats and the quality of glass work was absolutely stunning, so seeing Sled City's lack of QC is really taking it's toll.
2) While adding the extensions to each end (to make the lid wider) I was working the Kitty Hair with a flat board, basically blocking and sanding the glass as I went, and found a HUGE f'n trough running down each side of the lid (from front to rear). I decide to block the lid entirely and the trough becomes more and more evident, and I mean it's a 1/8" deep furrow! My knucklehead neighbor walks into the shop yesterday, sees the huge low "spots" and makes the brilliant comment, "oh yeah, why not just fill it with Bondo?". WTF? Really? There are really people that still do **** like that?
Below are some shots showing the myriad of issues I'm talking about.

This shot shows some of the tape Sled City used to cover the emblem holes in their donor trunk lid, but instead of touching up their mold they just left them. No, their not difficult to sand out but the lack of conscientious mold prep goes to the overall quality of the parts I'm dealing with.

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The 3 shots below are the ones that REALLY piss me off. The dark areas are the guide coat left in the low spots after I've blocked the gel coat on the entire trunk lid. The dark area along the edges is at least 3" wide and more than 1/8" deep near the outer edge.

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Yeah, that's another low spot running across the deck lid, and while not as deep as the two running front to back it's just another issue I'll have to be dealing with.

I'm not sure what donor parts Sled City used but after all I've had to do to "fix" the problems I have to imagine their donors were rusty, wavy POS that had little to no prep done before pulling molds off of them.
BTW - I still have my steel trunk lid (acid dipped with NO body filler at all) to compare the glass parts to and there is definitely no trough along the edges like you see above; I blocked the steel trunk lid just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind.

OK, enough whining, I'll be back to work on the hood and trunk lid this week and get them finished up.

​

 

[malex]

This is getting pretty boring but I figure I need to continue documenting the fiberglass hood and trunk lid saga, so here goes.

I'm stunned but the hood is actually coming along pretty well, the extensions I've added to both widen and lengthen the hood have worked out really well and during the sanding process I've got the hood pretty much blocked so once the primer goes on it SHOULD be a pretty quick process to finish it. Below are some shots.

I left myself quite a bit of wiggle room along both edges so I'll have plenty of material to work with when I trim the hood to fit, including the rear corners which will have pointed corners instead of the rounded corners supplied on the hood (thanks for the heads up, Malex!).

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​

Yeah, well, the hood may be coming out OK but the trunk lid is another matter entirely, and for reasons I definitely did not expect.
1)
When Sled City pulled their molds off a steel trunk lid they never went back and touched up their molds to eliminate blemishes left by pin stripes, tape, etc. Yeah, that's right, as soon as I took a sanding block to the trunk lid the pin stripes and tape blemishes immediately appeared. Again, WTF?
I've tried to be patient and not throw accusations around but this has finally pushed me over the edge; Sled City needs to get their **** together, period. I spent my younger years around drag boats and the quality of glass work was absolutely stunning, so seeing Sled City's lack of QC is really taking it's toll.
2) While adding the extensions to each end (to make the lid wider) I was working the Kitty Hair with a flat board, basically blocking and sanding the glass as I went, and found a HUGE f'n trough running down each side of the lid (from front to rear). I decide to block the lid entirely and the trough becomes more and more evident, and I mean it's a 1/8" deep furrow! My knucklehead neighbor walks into the shop yesterday, sees the huge low "spots" and makes the brilliant comment, "oh yeah, why not just fill it with Bondo?". WTF? Really? There are really people that still do **** like that?
Below are some shots showing the myriad of issues I'm talking about.

This shot shows some of the tape Sled City used to cover the emblem holes in their donor trunk lid, but instead of touching up their mold they just left them. No, their not difficult to sand out but the lack of conscientious mold prep goes to the overall quality of the parts I'm dealing with.

View attachment 534095
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The 3 shots below are the ones that REALLY piss me off. The dark areas are the guide coat left in the low spots after I've blocked the gel coat on the entire trunk lid. The dark area along the edges is at least 3" wide and more than 1/8" deep near the outer edge.

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Yeah, that's another low spot running across the deck lid, and while not as deep as the two running front to back it's just another issue I'll have to be dealing with.

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I'm not sure what donor parts Sled City used but after all I've had to do to "fix" the problems I have to imagine their donors were rusty, wavy POS that had little to no prep done before pulling molds off of them.
BTW - I still have my steel trunk lid (acid dipped with NO body filler at all) to compare the glass parts to and there is definitely no trough along the edges like you see above; I blocked the steel trunk lid just to make sure I wasn't losing my mind.

OK, enough whining, I'll be back to work on the hood and trunk lid this week and get them finished up.

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You have every right to be pissed off, that is pure **** garbage, the same as what I ended up with. Just look at all the work you are going through trying to make something out of what he sent you. I said the exact same thing about their molds being rough pieces of crap. He's making parts and transferring the deformities into every piece he produces from them. That garbage isn't fit for a short track stock car that's going to get ripped off in a few laps.
I complained like a bugger to him and got no where. I demanded my money back at which time he told me about his 2004 policy of no refunds.... I even called Paypal to start a resolution. I was screwed there too because I sent the funds as per his instructions - friend to friend. And when you send money that way you have no recourse. How convenient for him.. I bet he requested your payment by paypal, friend to friend too.. It's just too bad that members on this site keep getting screwed over with his stuff. It seems that most people are onto him now though.
Fury it comes down to either fixing it or spending the money all over again. You're making something out of that hood, you can do the same with the deck lid.
DVW posted a picture of his hood that he got from AAR. It only needed scuffing and paint, it was NICE, if you give up on that sled city stuff you should look into AAR.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I thought the owner of Sled City is a member on here.

 

[Satans Fury]

I thought the owner of Sled City is a member on here.

Carl, I believe, is the owner of Sled City, and all of my dealings with him have been top notch, which are obviously not the same as Malex's situation. Whether or not he is a member here makes little/no difference to me, the quality of workmanship I'm dealing with, or lack there of, is the issue. My biggest problem is the pieces were purchased many years ago so I realize I have virtually no recourse at this point other than to point out what I'm encountering (both good and bad), which is what I have done for every step in my build over the past couple hundred posts.
Not trying to "dog" Carl and Sled City but their lack of QC is causing me lots of problems I should not be having to rectify.

 

[5.7 hemi]

What I meant, he’s a member that is always pushing his parts, and to why he hasn’t seen this thread and responded is beyond me.

 

[Satans Fury]

What I meant, he’s a member that is always pushing his parts, and to why he hasn’t seen this thread and responded is beyond me.

My apologies 5.7, I took your post as "play nicely, he's a member"; my mistake.

Carl has, in fact, posted in my thread previously, and has always been complimentary, which I obviously appreciated, and up to now I have tried to be positive about my situation, but that situation has now gotten to the point I had to make my feelings clear; the quality of the pieces I purchased is sub-par and if there are alternatives they should be strongly considered.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Don’t sweat it. I’d be pissed at the sub par quality he’s letting go out his shop. Perhaps it’s time to send him “conversation” so he can see what he’s selling to people.

 

[Satans Fury]

Don’t sweat it. I’d be pissed at the sub par quality he’s letting go out his shop. Perhaps it’s time to send him “conversation” so he can see what he’s selling to people.

Thanks for understanding; didn't mean to take the conversation wrong.
I hadn't considered contacting him about it, and honestly don't know what good it might do. Had I purchased the pieces more recently my contacting him might carry more weight, but who knows. I'll give it some thought.

 

[Satans Fury]

Made some great progress on the trunk lid yesterday so here are a couple pix of what I got done.

This first shot shows the fiberglass matting (3 layers) I laid down to fill the majority of the "trough" running front to rear near the outer edge of the trunk lid. I'm only showing one passenger side but the driver side has the same repair.

The glass matting worked out really well as a reinforcement for the extensions I added to widen the trunk lid.

Before I moved on to finish working the glass I used a D/A to knock down the high spots and blend in the edges of the glass. This next pic shows the same area after my first round of blocking:

I hate the fact I'm having to do all this extra work but at this point it looks like the results are turning out pretty well, so I continued blocking for another couple hours (YES, a couple hours of blocking!).

This last shot shows the same area after 2 skim coats of Rage Ultra body-filler. I LOVE this stuff so if you have to use body-filler I highly recommend it. I heard lots of good things about the Rage Gold (supposed to be better) but I found it to be too thin and runny for my likes, at least for vertical surfaces, so I stick to the Ultra.
The results after the first two skim coats is excellent and I'll follow up with another skim coat and some glazing putty after I trim the edge to the correct length. I fully expect to get some chipping when I cut the edge so why waste any more time, effort, or materials now.

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I'll be back in the shop tonight working on the driver side. My plan is to get the driver side to the same point as the passenger side then invert the glass trunk lid, place it on top of my steel lid, line up the center lines as perfectly as I can, and scribe the steel lid width onto the glass lid, leaving a little extra material for fine tuning.

On 2 totally different areas of work:

1. When I installed the main hoop of my roll bar I set it back quite a ways from where S&W intended it to go (due to the engine, pedal, and seat setback) so I needed to extend the bars that run from the main hoop forward to the foot well. A day or so ago I received the tubing I was waiting for and the extension of those bars is done, so now all I have to do is figure out how to "adjust" the angles S&W bent into the bars themselves, I want to place them VERY close to the inside edge of the roof and the "A" pillar but at the moment they range from 1" - 5" away from the body and I want the bars at a consistent 1" distance. Anyone got an idea on how to adjust the bend of a roll bar tube?
2. As per Malex, I'm going to mount my bumpers using aluminum bar in place of the factory steel, and the 3" x 36" x 1/8" stock showed up today, so I've got more things to play with once I'm done with modifying the hood and trunk lid.

More pix to follow.