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67 hemi starter wire harness

I bought a new 67 wiring harness from Evans wiring and believe it be correct.

My car was originally a 440 and the starter relay( was) mounted on the back firewall.

The way my new harness was made suggests the relay is on the firewall.
Only 66 had starter/horn relay on fender.
The original 67 hemi car may have been placed on the inner fender as GTX6869 demonstraits.
 
I bought a new 67 wiring harness from Evans wiring and believe it be correct.

My car was originally a 440 and the starter relay( was) mounted on the back firewall.

The way my new harness was made suggests the relay is on the firewall.

The original 67 hemi car may have been placed on the inner fender as GTX6869 demonstraits.
I have the starter relay attched to the firewall as originally designed. I had the engine out of the car and installed all new wiring, including the poistive battery cable loom that has the wires to the starter. What I should have done, had I known this would be such a problem installing, is I should have attached the wires to the starter before I installed the engine. Then I could have fed the wires up the fender wall to the battery. And hooked the wire loom to the inner fender or the the hook connected to the back of the block , HAD I KNOWN THERE WAS A HOOK TO BE IN PLACE. I have started the build on this Hemi Charger without any previous Hemi Engine experience. I have learned a great deal, thanks to Forum members like you.
 
originally the the starter heat shield from Mopar came out in 1971.. they must have realized the heat problem fact too.

I might have bought one to many wire hooks (like the picture) i can sell.. i will look and get back to you if you are interested.

All that I have said here may have a few flaws + or - in this thread....

I am in the middle of doing the same out of the engine cavity which is a lot easier.

View attachment 1197318

My original plan was to place the engine and trans on a stand like you have, so I had one made per the specs I found on the forum. The cart worked for my front end build but I could get the engine onto the stand. So I ditched the idea of installing from underneath the car and went from the top. NEVER AGAIN will I do that. I should have had my stand modified.
 
The starter relay on a 67 IS on the firewall as mentioned.

Its on the drivers inner fender in 1966 ONLY
 
My starter relay is on the firewall. I tried this past weekend to install the starter with the wiring attached and then install the starter on the bellhousing. I couldn't get it to be flush to the bellhousing. I can put the starter in without the wires, slides right in and bolts on. But with the manifold on the engine it is near impossible to adjust the starter wires in a position so the starter will slide in flush to the bellhousing. I originally installed the engine without the exhaust manifold and with the starter installed, problem is I couldn't feed the exhaust manifold past the starter to reinstall on the engine. So I removed the starter and installed the exhaust manifold. I do have the one hook on the fender well that gtx6970 posted a picture of and I did purchase the longer strap hook that Bold&Old recommended. I will attempt this weekend. I also have the heat shield to wrap around the starter once I get the starter installed but the is the last item on my mind right now. I was able to feed and install the oil pressure wire up to the the oil pressure gauge. Thanks to all of you who have responded to my post, very much appreciated.

starter with wires attached.jpg
 
Your car is a 4 speed with 66 to 69 bell housing and a 172 tooth flywheel? If why that gear reduction starter? Am I mistaken or is it after market starter? not mine Saw you post a DD starter. Is there a difference between a auto and a 4 speed harness?
 
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Your car is a 4 speed with 66 to 69 bell housing and a 172 tooth flywheel? If why that gear reduction starter? Am I mistaken or is it after market starter? not mine Saw you post a DD starter. Is there a difference between a auto and a 4 speed harness?

As Fran Blacker indicates, it appears your have the wrong starter. If you have a stock bell housing and 172 tooth flywheel, you need a "direct drive" starter. I believe the harness is different between an auto or 4spd car. The direct drive starters are getting scarce and pricey should you need to procure one.
 
As Fran Blacker indicates, it appears your have the wrong starter. If you have a stock bell housing and 172 tooth flywheel, you need a "direct drive" starter. I believe the harness is different between an auto or 4spd car. The direct drive starters are getting scarce and pricey should you need to procure one.

Yes my car is a 4 speed with a 172 tooth flywheel. I do require a direct drive starter and didn't realize that the starter I bought was not correct. The vendor I purchased from seemed to know what I needed and ordered one for me. I do not know the difference. I do know of two that are advertised on Ebay, one is $999.00 and the other is $1499.00. see links:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/334224360889
https://www.ebay.com/itm/203303742181
I have spoken with both of these vendors. The second one is numbers matching according to my parts book. Part # 2642930. I have spoken with him before, I was hoping to not have to spend $1500 for a starter.
The reason I hesitated is once installed, the solenoid is on the bottom. If you look at the drive shaft, the way it goes into the bellhousing for the gear to engage, would have the solenoid on the bottom? I have spent a year lamenting about buying the numbers matching starter for $1500! I did look a new aftermarket starters when I first started the restoration but never read anythin on any forum aboout which ione is correct for my car so I have held out for an "original" starter.

I guess I have no choice if I want to get my car running. Thank you.
 
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Your car is a 4 speed with 66 to 69 bell housing and a 172 tooth flywheel? If why that gear reduction starter? Am I mistaken or is it after market starter? not mine Saw you post a DD starter. Is there a difference between a auto and a 4 speed harness?

Yes there is a difference for the 4 speed harness from the automatic harnness. I bought my harness from Rob Hoover, see link.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/382879537709
 
The solenoid is on the bottom. I can get you an in service photo of mine although it a'69.
Of note, I seem to remember from eons ago, that the starter from certain Dodge 413 cu in truck engines are interchangeable. That may give a more reasonable priced path and may very well be what that Ebay starter with the 18****** part number is. Also of note, about 10 years ago, the smoke leaked out of the solenoid on mine and I was able to order a replacement from the dealer, for a 413 truck starter. It was the same.
 
That's interesting. I rebuilt a DD starter for my 64 /6 stick car once, always wondered if they were interchangeable with the Hemi.
Granted, probably different torque rating
 
But I guess a good rebuilder who can re-wind armatures could take care of that, couldn’t they?
 
Well in the reduction starters, the more powerful ones are longer. So not too sure.
 
I'm not expert but a friend with a 4 speed car. He said there a small difference in the nose casting on Hemi starters. A little grind/machining MIGHT work. I'd buy the $320 starter and keep an eye open for a reasonable original. On that $320 starter no returns, I contact him through ebay and ask if he guarantees that it will fit. I'll check my garage for a starter that looks similar to a Hemi starter, think it's a 6 cylinder starter.
 
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