'68 Satellite 4-door light refurb...and big fat engine swap.

[cudak888]

I'm no fan of InLine tube. Your experience was better than mine with their products. That company cost me many weekends of just trying to get the correct parts, and in theend needed to make a line to get the job done.

Kurt

Looks great my friend....

I had to do a lot of fitment, bending, cutting/flaring to all the lines for the GTX....All from "In line tube" my previous restoration I used ILT and had minor modifications.....I was fortunate for the GTX that I had all the original lines to match up....if I didn't it would have been a nightmare....

I would pay more for a set that fits perfect versus paying for a headache and a lot of hours lost that I cannot get back....

Justin

I know that one can't expect every line to be perfect, but I've had surprisingly good luck with the InLine stuff up to now - the rear kit fit surprisingly well as did the new ones for the manual brake front. Seems like an obvious fail in design as for the power MC lines, but probably because they can't bend the tube any tighter or flare it any closer in their mass-production machines.

But who am I to complain? I know of a lot of cars that I can't even get lines for. I'm spoiled.

-Kurt

 

[moparnation74]

I know that one can't expect every line to be perfect, but I've had surprisingly good luck with the InLine stuff up to now - the rear kit fit surprisingly well as did the new ones for the manual brake front. Seems like an obvious fail in design as for the power MC lines, but probably because they can't bend the tube any tighter or flare it any closer in their mass-production machines.

But who am I to complain? I know of a lot of cars that I can't even get lines for. I'm spoiled.

-Kurt

My previous sets I had little issues...but my current set was a lot of work......

You are the consumer and when the product doesn't fit as described, you have every right to complain....Without complaints, will they improve on what they offer? I called in line tube awhile back and relayed my concerns and maybe that will help to improve the quality...Back in the day I remember bending lines/flaring etc...when they were not available and thats what you had to do if you made a decision to restore a car that had limited parts available....

 

[cudak888]

My previous sets I had little issues...but my current set was a lot of work......

You are the consumer and when the product doesn't fit as described, you have every right to complain....Without complaints, will they improve on what they offer? I called in line tube awhile back and relayed my concerns and maybe that will help to improve the quality...Back in the day I remember bending lines/flaring etc...when they were not available and thats what you had to do if you made a decision to restore a car that had limited parts available....

Email already sent...



-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Tonight, I went back to the master cylinder and booster and the brake dragging problem.

I loosened the master from the booster, found the rod wasn't even in contact, extended it a bit, put it back together...brakes still on. Repeated this with a bit more adjustment. Same deal. Again. Same. Again. Same.

After four or five tries, I got curious. I pulled the master completely off the booster rod, started the car, put the parking brake on, shifted into neutral, pulled the parking brake off...and the brakes are still locked.

That eliminates the booster. Something's awry with the master - and one oddity I noticed with this master from the start is that the piston doesn't have anything retaining it from coming out the back (like all the non-power masters I've played with). Mind you, I mean the MC piston, not the booster's pushrod. The piston sticks out from the back about 1/8" - I don't think it should - and is obviously designed for a two-screw retainer plate (as opposed to a circlip).

At any rate, I still have the 1-1/32" bore Raybestos MC36412 master cylinder that I bought off Amazon for $9 - it's just sitting around just waiting to be installed on something, and it looks like I'm going to install it in place of the Pirate Jack unit. Not looking forward to another round of "PRESS!" and "RELEASE" - gotta get some speed bleeders or I'm going to go bananas.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Pirate Jack booster was the culprit. I put the Raybestos 1-1/32nd" unit in and it works flawlessly. Hard to get used to the extremely responsive and low pedal (in comparison to non-power), but it's good.

I have a suspicion the PJ booster, despite having uneven sized reservoirs, is designed for drums and has a residual valve in it.

 

[jeepers007]

Hard to get used to the extremely responsive and low pedal (in comparison to non-power), but it's good.

View attachment 516874 View attachment 516875 View attachment 516876

You probably already thought of this, but would an adjustable brake pedal rod allow you to move the pedal back up to normal height?

 

[cudak888]

You probably already thought of this, but would an adjustable brake pedal rod allow you to move the pedal back up to normal height?

Not in the traditional sense - it's not like a Jeep where the rod goes straight into the booster; the rod that would have to be lengthened has an eyelet at each end.

One of the forum members did cut and weld his rod back together (see: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/brake-pedal-height-issues.93386/#post-910268048 ) to raise his pedal, and while it's a completely logical idea (I could also 3D print a stainless steel one which may be an arguably stronger alternative), I've become accustomed to it and the fact that it's now level with the gas pedal for once.

Perhaps it's a bit odd to get used to the low pedal if you're a first-timer with it, but I accept it as just another Mopar quirk.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Update: Took the car out dark and early this morning to pick up some bicycles I purchased at a police sale yesterday. Pulled out onto the main road, brought her up to 40, and she shut off like someone pulled the plug on it, with all power accessories running.

Pulled off the road ("so that's what manual steering feels like"), popped open the hood, checked carb, verified fuel. Cranks w/no spark. Distributor isn't cracked, rotor is fine. The ultimate disgrace was getting towed back home behind a KIA, but so be it.

This may be premature diagnosis on my part, but I'm almost 99.9% positive that the NOS, U.S.-made HEI module I'm running just quit. Could be the coil too, but I doubt it.

At any rate, I've got an old GM HEI distributor in the shed which I'm going to temporarily pull the HEI module from just to do a plug-and-play test with the other. For the long term though, I've got an ancient MSD box (6R? It's a 6-something, and not an A. It was off a lot of parts used on an IMSA-raced Camaro, and I haven't seen it in a loooong time), and if it works, I'm going to wire that up in place of the apparently fragile (just under 500 miles on it) HEI module.

-Kurt

 

[roadrunnerh]

 

[cudak888]

Swapped another HEI into it for a quick test last night. Still dead. Ford TFI coil's resistance readings check out. Also verified that the tach wire isn't grounding out.

Ordered a magnetic pickup for the dizzy today. It's the one thing in the system that I have not replaced. Simple enough too.

-Kurt

P.S.: I'm a bit disappointed that I can't blame the one GM part in the car for the failure.

 

[cudak888]

Ok. Got the magnetic pickup installed. No workie.

At this point, I re-thought my original HEI test and suspected that I did a crap job of grounding the module. Ran a screw and nut through it, connected an alligator clip, plugged it in, car started right up.

On that note - the test module I'm using is an original GM part, stamped with the logo and all. The one I bought for the car a year and a half ago is from this listing - seller still has them - and though he claims "NOS made in USA," these things are NOT stamped GM. Come in AC-Delco boxes. EDIT: That's an AC-Delco box RIPOFF. Probably some knock-off junk!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-Chevy-Ignition-Control-Module-4-Pin-HEI-Distributor-NOS-Made-in-the-USA/321379120140?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

 

[cudak888]

Made it to the local weekend car show and back on the OEM original GM HEI unit, not the "supposedly-USA-made-but-suspiciously-identical-to-the-Chinese-HEI-unit."

#EvenGMisAWinWhenItsNotChinese

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Couple of thoughts here and a slight rant and observation about using the roller-cam LA 360 as a Magnum substitute:

I've been having an issue where extended idling in place causes either vapor lock or fuel boiling in the carb. Not sure which, but I went and changed the carb spacer from plastic to one of those wood/resin mixes, along with an aluminum heat shield. This seemed to work until yesterday, when I found myself talking to a neighbor by the side of the road (ironically, topic was another Mopar) - sure enough, it started stumbling all over again.

I was pretty much sold on the idea of going full factory Magnum EFI on this thing until two things came to mind:

1. Since I'm running a 360, I've got the flexplate to worry about - and with factory EFI, you need that flexplate with the tone wheel on it that sends data to the crank position sensor. Of course, fate would have it that the 360 was never backed by the 904 in it's Magnum incarnation, which means the stock Magnum 5.9 flexplate isn't going to fit the torque converter.
   • Of course, I could use a flexplate off the Magnum 3.9L, which did come with the 904-based 32RH...
   • ...but this means I'd also have to get a custom weighted converter, as the 3.9L flexplate is neutral balanced.
   • I also thought of replacing the 904 with a 727, which would then allow me to run the factory Magnum 5.9L externally balanced flexplate and a factory torque converter.
   • Either way, I'd need to notch the transmission for the crank position sensor. This seemed like the LEAST of my problems.
2. After spending way too much time figuring out countless ways to do this, I remembered the crank position sensor bolts to the block. Now, remember: I have what is essentially a Magnum 5.9, but the bottom end is a 1989 roller-cam LA 360 designed for the older TBI system...and sure enough, the TBI system has no crank position sensor...which means there are no bosses on the block.

Looks like I'm going to have to try the vapor return system 62 Dart Convertible came up with, and hope it works.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Few more things:

A. Booster started sucking air through the back. Turned out the boot popped off the back, fixable, but only accessible if I pulled the booster. Didn't want to spend the rest of eternity playing with it, and converted right back to manual brakes. Full story and tons of pics: https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-in-68-would-a-late-b-body-booster-fit.154071

Since this also meant pulling the dash, I pulled the trigger on an RT-Engineering PCB for the tach, finally. Got it installed tonight:

The original PCB:

I also commissioned three (one spare) sandwich-style isolators to replace the original, which cracked when the rear of the tach took a hit during shipping. I designed them in Blender and had them printed by 3D Hubs. This is far superior to the original design, which - if I recall right - had nothing more than some paperish rubber washers to prevent the bolts from shorting out, if they shifted in their holes:

The isolators should arrive soon.

-Kurt

 

[Billccm]

Just converted my tach with rt-eng.com circuit board. Great people. Works great.

I used $0.14 grommets from ACE hardware for my tach terminal insulators.

 

[cudak888]

I got around to trying to calibrate the tach, but I can not get this thing to work right. The needle runs smooth by hand, and I've adjusted the springs and the jewel screw so the ring runs absolutely perfectly, and I'm having no luck. Bill has been an absolute gentleman trying his best to help me troubleshoot it via PMs, but I really don't want another thing on this car with intermittent quirks.



That said, I went through all the trouble of designing 3D printed replica ages ago (and since the little Chinesium $12 tach worked perfectly), I'm going to get one more printed for myself - though I'm going to update the plate by deleting the mounting screw holes. I'm going to add a centering stud to the back instead so it can be glued to the cheapo tach.

Here's an old photo. I've also designed a correct needle in the meantime:

And in other news, I added a pair of quick-disconnect weatherpack connectors for the voltmeter (I converted it - no high amps going through here) and the tach, when complete. I don't know why on earth I didn't think of this in the first place, since disconnecting the voltmeter is such a major pain in the butt every time the instrument cluster is pulled.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Massive change of plans. The little China tach came in today, and when testing it, it somehow was able to irritate me more than the original - it's really slow and lethargic.

On the other hand, the original is sticky and won't show the right reading unless you tap the gauge cluster.

So I made a decision - I verified that the China tach was calibrated right, put the original next to it, got the original working (with much tapping) to match the China cheap-o, sprayed PB blaster down the front, and then rammed it all together.

And it still sticks. At this point, I don't really care. The hole in the dash is filled with an original tach. It sorta-semi works, and I'm tired of wasting time with it.

Install went nicely, especially with those weatherpack connectors and pigtails, which make all the difference in the world. Can't recommend them enough if your vehicle isn't a judged show car. Also had a chance to re-spray that lousy lower dash pad and make a few modifications to aid the install of the lower switch panel. Went better than I expected.

I also spent some time re-organizing the wires under the dash since it came out nicely. The map light was disconnected for the longest time thanks to the wiring mess; now it works nicely, plugging into it's spot in the fusebox without fuss. The cigar/cigarette lighter wire had also popped off - simple enough in practice, but a royal PITA to slide back on due to the A/C duct right over it. Probably super easy on a non-AC car. At any rate, it works once again.

Need to figure out now how I'm going to re-install the shotgun rack mount and the center stack. Not really keen on having it propped on the trans tunnel the way it was when I got the car; might try for a more streamlined fitment like the LAPD units (think ADAM-12). Also need to figure out what I want to wire the old radio to - it's not going to be functional, but it'd be neat to see it light up.

Incidentally, anyone have a cover for the fusebox top? Mine doesn't have one - just a whole bunch of metal tabs floating around in there waiting to short out. Or is the cover literally the cardboard glovebox?

-Kurt

 

[Billccm]

You talk as if pulling that cluster is as easy as an oil change. I wish you lived closer; I'd pay you $100 to help me get the cluster out.
I'm not brave enough to tackle the job, yet. I pulled my tach by contorting myself under the dash and 4 ibuprofen.
I'm stumped by your tach sticking. Mine works great except for some overshoot if you blimp the throttle from idle to 2K RPMs.
Love your car and your thread on the jobs.

 

[cudak888]

You talk as if pulling that cluster is as easy as an oil change. I wish you lived closer; I'd pay you $100 to help me get the cluster out.
I'm not brave enough to tackle the job, yet. I pulled my tach by contorting myself under the dash and 4 ibuprofen.
I'm stumped by your tach sticking. Mine works great except for some overshoot if you blimp the throttle from idle to 2K RPMs.
Love your car and your thread on the jobs.

Bill, if I'm not mistaken, the easiest way to get the tach out with the dash in place is to pull the radio. Gives you enough access to get at the three screws, if haphazardly. Then you can spin the tach around to get the nut and spade connector off the terminal.

That said, as much as I hate this job, I can do it faster than an oil change - at least, faster than oil changes on motors I have experience with (so far, quite a few of the same, of a strange variety: Ford Cleveland/400's, Mopar LAs/Magnums, and Hyundai Lambdas). Barring any parts falling apart on the way out - namely, the dash PCB pins or the plastic part of the dimmer switch, which can be easily caught and cracked - it's not as difficult as it seems.

A shrunk and dried out dash pad is the most difficult bit to work around during the reinstall (never mind the hell of speed nut removal), due to the tight fit of the lower switch panel. I learned from last time though, and left the bottom of the pad loose. I also dropped the steering column a half inch, and that helped tremendously.

At any rate, if you ever find yourself in South Florida, I'm absolutely up for B-body dash extraction punishment any day of the week for a C note .

-Kurt