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69 Coronet R/T Suspension Popping Sounds Over Small Bumps

themechanic

Oklahoma is OK
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I am hearing really loud popping on the left and right front suspension driving over small bumps. It happens on the highway as well as around city streets. It used to be noticeable only on the passenger side.

I rebuilt the suspension about 8 years ago but I haven't driven the car more than about 100 miles or so around town. I installed Bilstein shocks a few years ago but it was popping before.

Will torsion bars pop if they don't have enough grease?

Will sway bar end links make popping noise if they're loose?
 
Pop sound, but not like the Lawrence Welk pop sound? More of a click? Mine did a similar sound but ONLY when maneuvering out of driveway in reverse. Weight shift. Finally went away at Hotchkis sway bar and tubular UCA upgrade time IIRC. Never did get to the bottom of it.
 
Loose shock bolts or strut bushings.
I checked the front sway bar bushings, end links, shock mounts and suspension for movement; it's all tight.
Yes the torsion bars will make noise if not greased on both ends.
It does not appear that I greased them at all. I know the manual says to pack the rear full of grease after the lock clip goes on. But there's no grease back there.

I've got the car on jack stands. I'll pull both bars out tomorrow and grease them properly.

Will the front end need re-alignment after I'm done?
 
I checked the front sway bar bushings, end links, shock mounts and suspension for movement; it's all tight.

It does not appear that I greased them at all. I know the manual says to pack the rear full of grease after the lock clip goes on. But there's no grease back there.

I've got the car on jack stands. I'll pull both bars out tomorrow and grease them properly.

Will the front end need re-alignment after I'm done?
NO. Can we assume the lower control arm bushings were replaced?
Mike
 
If you're under there to look at the lower bushings, check the K-frame for problems around the sleeve that the control arm shaft goes through. Look for cracks, tears etc. Repair if needed.
 
If you get the ride height the same again then no alignment needed.

Just measure height first so you can return there again.
 
Check the 4 bolts that hold the K frame to the body. jt

K frame looks intact with no cracks.

I pulled the driver side torsion bar out and both ends are lightly greased and slid out easily once I loosened the nuts on the strut bar to lca and lca bushing. How much grease do I need?

However, I noticed the paint chips on the big strut bar washers that hold the bushings on both left and right sides. It appears that the screws holding the aftermarket front sway bar bushing to the K member are too long and tapping the washers as the suspension compresses. I'm going to regrease the torsion bars and cut off the excess bolt length on those sway bar mounts.

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Everything affects everything else. This along with marginal handling improvement if any IMHO.
 
The passenger side torsion bar was lightly greased in the rear but bone dry where it goes into the lca. Both torsion bars received a liberal greasing and were reinstalled.

I'll test drive after after the wheels are back on and I torque everything properly.
 
I still have the occasional sound of the TTI 3" headers bumping the torsion bar on the passenger side. I fixed it before but it's back after rebuilding the engine.
 
Little ding L do ya. Scatpack is too quiet and now you’re noticing too much stuff.
 
Little ding L do ya. Scatpack is too quiet and now you’re noticing too much stuff.
Yep. Also, the Coronet exhaust was re-engineered by me. I should've just installed the HP manifolds ans sold the headers.

I guess I'll get the eye-bolt screwed into the anchor I installed in the garage floor and use the turn buckle to pull the header away from the torsion bar again. It worked last time.

BTW, TTI customer support tech advised me to use some way of bending the header; he said nobody gas broken an exhaust flange or stud doing this.
 
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