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69 gtx

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As you can see the ampmeter got hot at some point. If anyone has one of the blue lenses laying around I'm in the market for one.
I cleaned it up and gave it a new coat of white.
 
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Justin here is a picture of the texture on dash, it's very fine, almost like you sprayed it a little dry.
 
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Made the new bushing to hold the pieces together for the couple. Showard said the one he bought was 4.5". I'll wait till my column is back together before I weld it to make sure. I'm deleting the previous post with wrong dimensions!
 
Justin it may end up a little more course after the paint build up. I hope to paint this weekend.
 
Justin it may end up a little more course after the paint build up. I hope to paint this weekend.
Probably so....or if at ideal conditions and spray distance etc....In any event I would be very happy with that look and no judge would disagree.....It would go into my car any day of the week....

I prefer any at home remedy versus relying on someone else, long wait periods, shipping etc.....Plus yours is not a lacquer and will take a lot of abuse from the UV rays versus the latter....
 
Justin it may end up a little more course after the paint build up. I hope to paint this weekend.
I used regular paint and just help the can about 18 inches out for a dry finish and Love the way it came out.
 
Lookin GREAT fella ! FWIW, my original '69 Bee dash out of Lynch Rd didn't have any real "texture" to it and I know it was never touched previous to me media blasting and painting it. I hit it pretty much spot on with Duplicolor Trim Paint (not their "bumper and trim") CTP700000

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I'll have about 50$ in mine for the same thing. Coupler 12$ & rebuild kit 20$
 
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So next is amp to volt gauge! I ordered the Sunpro gauge and tore it apart. Same with OEM gauge, I removed the 2 rivets from the fiberboard to this. The sun gauge had 2 very small screws to remove the face from that gauge. I ground some clearance to get the new gauge to fit where it needed to be. I then figured up the bolt spacing off the 2 rivets holding the fiberboard on to keep it centered then drilled 2 .08 holes from the back side. Important note here, the holes are right on the edge of the metal face so that's why I left the fiber on to drill the holes. Once the holes are in, remove the fiber board as it spaces the gauge to far back and the needle rubs on the face.
 
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Once the gauge was mounted I hooked it up to a battery. left picture is 13.7 volts, right picture is 12.3 volts. So it should be pretty close to 12 o'clock at 14. I figure as long as it's on the middle mark I'm good!
 
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Next I filed a flat on the new gauge needle and cut it as it's too short. I then cut the factory needle below the bend to get the length right and then put a drop of super glue on it. I used the gasket to keep the needle parallel with the gauge face.
 
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Next I'll be painting the faces. I had previously used Mothers Back to Black on the faces and it looked good at the time but not now. So I wiped the faces down with laquer thinner to remove all the silicone I'm sure that is all over them. I'll hit them with SEM trim Black and then put the stencils on to paint the increments white. I dodn't know why I thought the stencils were going to be decals? You have to stick them on and then paint the white. I'm sure that's going to be fun. Then I can paint the needles and start reassembling! BTW the tach is a new repop unit. That's why it looks better.
 
So I talked to Dennis @ Not just headrests today at break time. I've had them boxed ready to go but hadn't sent them yet. Thought I'd touch base with him to see if there was anything special I need to do before sending. I had double boxed them to protect them. They are a brittle piece and with cold temps I don't want them to crack.
He said I should be fine. Also said to insure them for 495$ @ 500 they require a signature at delivery. So tonight they go to the UPS gorillas. Opting for the stage 3 restoration.
 
Well when I get off work today I'm headed to my friends paint booth to paint the dash, steering column, ect. Hope everything goes smoothly. He said I could paint it and leave it overnight to cure. This paint has no thinner so it takes some time to cure so you don't leave fingerprints in it.
 
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So next is amp to volt gauge! I ordered the Sunpro gauge and tore it apart. Same with OEM gauge, I removed the 2 rivets from the fiberboard to this. The sun gauge had 2 very small screws to remove the face from that gauge. I ground some clearance to get the new gauge to fit where it needed to be. I then figured up the bolt spacing off the 2 rivets holding the fiberboard on to keep it centered then drilled 2 .08 holes from the back side. Important note here, the holes are right on the edge of the metal face so that's why I left the fiber on to drill the holes. Once the holes are in, remove the fiber board as it spaces the gauge to far back and the needle rubs on the face.

Perfect! I wish I had taken pictures when I did mine but you did it the same way. Nice work. And I may have a few blue light covers, let me check.
 
Great, just need one! That should make it much better in the hazard department! I'm still looking for a very nice gear selector lever. The one I bought ended up just the same as what I had so sent it back.
 
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