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69 roadrunner leaking water in cab.

On the advice of a friend of mine, who owned a body/paint shop, I rarely wash my old cars with a garden hose and water. He said that once an old car has been disassembled and reassembled during a restoration, it may no longer be sealed against water intrusion as well as the factory did it. Water may find its way into a car in a way that is not very obvious, and lay under trunk mat, carpet, etc. to eventually cause rust. His suggestion was to use something like a California Duster to remove light road dust, and then to follow up with a spray instant detailer. I have done this for years. Our old cars never get that dirty, anyways.
 
On the advice of a friend of mine, who owned a body/paint shop, I rarely wash my old cars with a garden hose and water. He said that once an old car has been disassembled and reassembled during a restoration, it may no longer be sealed against water intrusion as well as the factory did it. Water may find its way into a car in a way that is not very obvious, and lay under trunk mat, carpet, etc. to eventually cause rust. His suggestion was to use something like a California Duster to remove light road dust, and then to follow up with a spray instant detailer. I have done this for years. Our old cars never get that dirty, anyways.

in freezing weather (you would know better than most of us), I wash cars with a spray bottle, a little dish soap, and roll of paper towels......... works in warm weather too lol
 
Enough of this ridiculous humor already. Now, a surefire (pun intended) way to find a leak using smoke: close up all the doors and windows tightly after lighting a fire inside the car. Soon, where the smoke escapes will reveal the leak. Something to remember for your next car after you watch this one burn to the ground.
 
Russ it’s probably the windshield gasket. They don’t seal very well around the bottom. Put 2” painters tape all the way around the glass. Then put the water hose to the wiper pivot. If no leak, then it’s the gasket. My 68 ( leaks ) in the same spot. It’s the gasket leaking on mine. Not looking forward to removing the front glass but that’s the only way to fix it right.
 
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I do not know what else I could have done when putting the window gasket in. We put plenty of sealant in the lower corners and across the bottom. Especially in the corners and down the A pillars. Not able to find the old butyl calk used the urethane. I won't talk about the rear window. So far it is dry. Well thanks for all the ideas and will try all but burning down the car. LOL. Has anyone tired the black RVT to help seal the window. Just a thought.
 
I do not know what else I could have done when putting the window gasket in. We put plenty of sealant in the lower corners and across the bottom. Especially in the corners and down the A pillars. Not able to find the old butyl calk used the urethane. I won't talk about the rear window. So far it is dry. Well thanks for all the ideas and will try all but burning down the car. LOL. Has anyone tired the black RVT to help seal the window. Just a thought.


Did you put any sealant on the molding clip holes before you attached them?
 
The first robot we got at Chrysler was the glass seal install. The bead must be uniform and the start and end must touch, but be careful how much they lap over. The urethane is time sensitive and the time needs to be adhered too. If it gets a skin on it before it's in, your screwed. This sound stupid, but gloves should be worn to keep oil from your hands away from the glass. Everyone has a suggestion and all can be right in one way or the other. Big leak or small, use the hose on low and wait for it. If it didn't leak before and this is just now happening, guess what, the glass needs to come out and have it done by someone that will be responsible for it even it has to come out 5 times. Now, ask me how I know. A good way to find it is high speeds and listen for wind noise. Most of these cars are to noisy for that, tail pipe noise. I'm no help, but I feel better now!!
 
I've heard urethane is a no no because of how much our cars can flex.

Is the windshield fogging up after a wash? 3M Glazing 08509 is what was recommended to me. Bead along the bottom around the corners up the A pillars. And a thin bead inside the rubber glass channel.
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Try the wiper pivots first. Looking at your pics of the cowl, I looks like it could only be the windshield gasket or wiper pivots.
 
So, I got into the car and under the dash with a Led palm light and mechanic mirror. Have been noticing that my pivot seals under the wiper arm look like bacon. I mean fired. Yes, it shows water is coming in around them. I ordered the set from year one cowl gasket, grease fitting, and the pivot seals. Is there a better place to get the pivot seals or are we just stuck with this reproduction stuff. I mean these things just did not last long. Is there a way to keep them from detreating and last longer.
 
When I did my 68 RR I used a umbrella valve seal over the pivot with coating of sealer on the pivot and the gasket.
 
So, I got into the car and under the dash with a Led palm light and mechanic mirror. Have been noticing that my pivot seals under the wiper arm look like bacon. I mean fired. Yes, it shows water is coming in around them. I ordered the set from year one cowl gasket, grease fitting, and the pivot seals. Is there a better place to get the pivot seals or are we just stuck with this reproduction stuff. I mean these things just did not last long. Is there a way to keep them from detreating and last longer.
Not surprised, did you do my test mentioned in post #14 ? That was the FIRST test we did and almost always revealed the pivot seals as the culprit.
 
Every Mopar from that era seems to leak from the windshield and backlight.
My current GTX got a new OEM floor pan and trunk pan while the selling dealer was still using it as a daily driver, thanks to leaks at both windshield and rear window. The fact that he was a dealer didn't seem to have any effect on the factory build quality when he ordered the car.
 
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