70 Charger MASSIVE camber issues

[HawkRod]

Now if you were to ship him your removal tool shown above then we can be fairly certain it won't be needed.
Just a thought...

Haha - that's probably true. But either way that'll make him happy!

@Triplegreen500
I'm happy to ship the tool to you if you want to use it. Just PM me and we can make arrangements. You might also be able to borrow one from an auto parts store - do whatever is easiest for you.

 

[Triplegreen500]

Thanks Hawk. I have some scrap around and can make one myself, if we don't have something here in the shop I can use for it. Much appreciated!

 

[Kern Dog]

I had a few A body cars over the years that ovalled out the LCA hole in the K member. There are a few fixes...there is a tube that passes through the k member that has a perimeter weld at each end. Often times the weld breaks and the hole elongates. I have personally moved the tube back into position and then welded a large flat washer around it to ensure that it doesn’t happen again. I have pictures on my home computer that I can post later.

 

[ckessel]

You can try what I did on the video I made Mopar torsion bar removal
And here are some shots of reinforcing around the sleeve in the k-frame.

 

[Triplegreen500]

...this is starting to sound a whole lot like work....lol....

 

[Fran Blacker]

If your changing upper ball joint get the socket to remove it.

 

[Triplegreen500]

It got ball joints a couple years ago, with the previous owner (according to receipts I got with it). I'll check 'em, but not planning to replace those.

Yet.

I know these things snowball. I'm doing the "garage shuffle" at the moment anyway so I can get my Jeep back indoors before snow starts falling (I hate going to work in the dark to begin with; I hate scraping ice and snow in the dark early in the morning even more); trying to figure out where to put this thing so a) I can work on it and b) it can sit disassembled for however long it takes, without being in the way of other stuff. My Ram work truck lives in the workshop because of space, and because that's where my concert sound system lives - and the truck hauls that to gigs. But if I tetris the cars right, I might be able to put the truck in the lower garage and the Charger can just live in the workshop till it's done. We'll see.

 

[Don Frelier]

I've found April is a nice month the get started.
But down there in Maryland, March might be pretty decent.
These days over the winter I just collect parts maybe take off a couple things and clean/paint or polish just to feel like I've accomplished something.

 

[Triplegreen500]

I've got a torpedo heater in the (insulated) garage.

It's my winter therapy.

 

[eldubb440]

I've got a torpedo heater in the (insulated) garage.

It's my winter therapy.

don't breathe too much of that ****...... and make sure you have fresh air....... that thing will use up all your 02

 

[Fran Blacker]

Using a 250k propane heater I'd heat garage hot. Have a cup of coffee someplace else. You heat all the things in the garage walls etc. Then open doors and let fresh in to get carbon monoxide out. Run the heater couple minutes and shut it down. It would be comfortable for 3 hours or so. Probably not the safest but worked for me?

 

[Triplegreen500]

Meh.

I love me some diesel/kerosene fumes!
I don't run it long - only enough to keep me from sticking to my tools

 

[WileE]

I believe you are supposed to tighten it with the weight on the front end at ride height.

When you're close to the final adjustment, exactly. But, I've seen them get stripped when starting from scratch. You HAVE to have the weight on the suspension when setting the ride height, then caster/camber, and toe-in.

 

[Jon Salem]

I have the same behavior on a 1971 charger, cambers positive drastically on driving (upper edge out). used a rim level gage and got it better but they moved again on driving. All this happened after separating the pitman arm and inner tie rod end from the center link to adjust a new steering box. Anyone know the torque on the camber adjustment bolts (upper arm)?? The 1970 manual says 140 in-lbs, but I manage to break one well before that, so the 1971 must be much lower.....