72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[supergluehero]

Mines all wired 1 x main battery ground 1 x black GND on the rear of head

Yeah, that's all mine has.

 

[supergluehero]

I've got one more power wire to run and I may need to add a relay for my A/C, but I'm in OK shape. Also I have a lot of expansion space for additional relays for maybe headlights in the future.

 

[supergluehero]

OK, here's where I start to get confused. I'm trying to rewire my AC system. I have a vintage air system with a trinary switch. The fan relay needs a ground. I think in the original system, it's grounded via the block through the coolant temperature switch. My trigger is coming from the terminator X, not a coolant switch, so that won't ground. Since the trigger is powered, the opposite side would need to be grounded (the 85 pin on the relay which is normally the grounding pin). Here's what I think I need to do, but I could use some confirmation. The 85 pin on my fan relay would go to ground instead of the 12V source (again since my trigger wire is powered). The #20 wire from the bulkhead I feel pretty confident is my AC on wire from the controls. Also should I run both fans or just one with the AC? I also included the wiring diagram for the AC shutdown relay. I assume that wire is normally hot and turns off when you go to WOT. Otherwise it would work backwards right?

 

[supergluehero]

OK, here's where I start to get confused. I'm trying to rewire my AC system. I have a vintage air system with a trinary switch. The fan relay needs a ground. I think in the original system, it's grounded via the block through the coolant temperature switch. My trigger is coming from the terminator X, not a coolant switch, so that won't ground. Since the trigger is powered, the opposite side would need to be grounded (the 85 pin on the relay which is normally the grounding pin). Here's what I think I need to do, but I could use some confirmation. The 85 pin on my fan relay would go to ground instead of the 12V source (again since my trigger wire is powered). The #20 wire from the bulkhead I feel pretty confident is my AC on wire from the controls. Also should I run both fans or just one with the AC? I also included the wiring diagram for the AC shutdown relay. I assume that wire is normally hot and turns off when you go to WOT. Otherwise it would work backwards right?

View attachment 1581941

I did a little more digging and I found this:
https://www.vintageair.com/instructions_pdf/HOLLEY SNIPER TERMINATOR X MAX WIRING DIAGRAM.pdf
I still don't understand how the trigger side of the relay is working. In the link above, they have swapped the trigger wire to the 85 pin and put 12V source on the 86 pin.

 

[70chall440]

I did a little more digging and I found this:
https://www.vintageair.com/instructions_pdf/HOLLEY SNIPER TERMINATOR X MAX WIRING DIAGRAM.pdf
I still don't understand how the trigger side of the relay is working. In the link above, they have swapped the trigger wire to the 85 pin and put 12V source on the 86 pin.

I cannot directly answer your question or confirm your layout as I don't have any experience with Vintage air or the Holley Terminator but I will be getting some so I am watching this closely.

As to the 85 and 86 pins, they are either side of a coil so I do not think it matters.

 

[HEMIB]

I did a little more digging and I found this:
https://www.vintageair.com/instructions_pdf/HOLLEY SNIPER TERMINATOR X MAX WIRING DIAGRAM.pdf
I still don't understand how the trigger side of the relay is working. In the link above, they have swapped the trigger wire to the 85 pin and put 12V source on the 86 pin.

The Holley trigger switches the relay to GND to energize unless the relay has a diode inside to block surge when turned off it doesn't really matter which way the coil is connected

 

[supergluehero]

The Holley trigger switches the relay to GND to energize unless the relay has a diode inside to block surge when turned off it doesn't really matter which way the coil is connected

Yeah I think I'm figuring it out. So the terminator creates a ground instead of sending a trigger signal. Well, that means my fans are wired wrong then....back to the drawing board.

 

[HEMIB]

Yeah I think I'm figuring it out. So the terminator creates a ground instead of sending a trigger signal. Well, that means my fans are wired wrong then....back to the drawing board.

I used a small 1 amp fuse on mine as if the + comes into contact with your switching wires for the 2 fans or the air Cond relay output it can damage the switching mosfet inside the Terminator this normal only happens if the relay coil is shorted or the relay coil draws more than 2 amps

 

[supergluehero]

Ok it looks mostly the same but I've rewired the relays per the vintage air diagram. I left out the AC cutout since apparently it's not needed until you go over 6300 rpm. I think redline on this stock motor is 6200 rpm. If I feel like it's dragging a bit, I'll just turn the AC off myself. I probably won't use the AC a whole lot anyway. Just a few more grounds, my gauges and some tidying up to do and that should do it for wiring. I realized that it doesn't make sense to clean up all the wiring if I have to track down issues during start-up, so I'll leave it be for now.

 

[supergluehero]

Quick question: the intake only has one vacuum port and that's going to the brake booster currently. I need a vacuum source for the HVAC. Can I use this capped nipple on the top of the booster connector?

 

[70chall440]

I don't remember if that nipple will have vacuum but you could Tee that line as well or maybe put a Tee in on the intake.

 

[supergluehero]

I don't remember if that nipple will have vacuum but you could Tee that line as well or maybe put a Tee in on the intake.

Yeah, a Tee would work for sure, but I thought that port might be a bit cleaner. It won't be something I need on first crank so I can always pull the cap and check.

 

[supergluehero]

I'm about to wire up my new blinker and high beam lights. Since the wires are easily de-pinned from the connector, is there an easy way to reuse them? I feel like it's a shame to cut off a perfectly good pin even though I know I'll never use them again. I can always use a quick splice, but they make me a little nervous to use.

 

[70chall440]

I'm about to wire up my new blinker and high beam lights. Since the wires are easily de-pinned from the connector, is there an easy way to reuse them? I feel like it's a shame to cut off a perfectly good pin even though I know I'll never use them again. I can always use a quick splice, but they make me a little nervous to use.
View attachment 1585637

I guess you could cut them behind the connector far enough to splice them into another wire but I think you can get those connections new. I build a 69 Ply wagon that uses the same connector that I had to rebuild and I am sure I bought new connectors.

 

[supergluehero]

My gauges came with splice blocks. They make for a quick installation. You can also see one of my ground wires for one of the switches.

 

[70chall440]

Splice block?

 

[supergluehero]

Splice block?

Here's a picture. That probably explains it better.

 

[70chall440]

Those look pretty cool, I cannot say I have ever seen them before.

 

[Rennkafer]

Those look pretty cool, I cannot say I have ever seen them before.

I've seen them used in house wiring, never in automotive use. Were it me I'd be using butt splices properly crimped with heat shrink, to each their own though.

 

[70chall440]

Yeah I have to agree, definitely for the final install. Those quick splices would probably be handy for mock and to make sure things are wired correctly.