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72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

For gauges they shouldn't be an issue. On EFI I can def see soldering and heat shrinking every connection or using weatherpack connectors if the circuit needs to be removable. I use a lot of weatherpack, delphi, etc connectors on my race car installs.
 
I have and do use about every connector, weatherpack, metripack, Delphi, Packard, and now Deutsch. They all have their place but in almost all cases I crimp, solder and heat shrink them (probably won't do that with Deutsch).
 
I crimp bare fittings without solder then heatshrink, which is normal motorsport/aviation procedure. The possible issue I see with those home quick connects is how well they hold up under movement/vibration. Houses don't do that much, cars do it a lot. As I said earlier though, they look like a great option for testing/prototyping.
 
Speed Hut provided these connectors. I'm not going to argue they are the best type of connection (because they're not), but at the same time, I bet they'd stop providing them if they caused problems. Who'd give the customer $0.10 of connectors to create a problem with $1000 worth of gauges? They're not seeing any weather, so I'm going to give them a try as is. If they cause problems, well I guess someone can say I told ya so.
 
Speed Hut provided these connectors. I'm not going to argue they are the best type of connection (because they're not), but at the same time, I bet they'd stop providing them if they caused problems. Who'd give the customer $0.10 of connectors to create a problem with $1000 worth of gauges? They're not seeing any weather, so I'm going to give them a try as is. If they cause problems, well I guess someone can say I told ya so.
Speedhut has good stuff, I used a full set of their gauges in my 73 Cuda and really like them. If DD had not come out with the 71+ cluster I was seriously thinking about Speedhut. I agree, if they supplied them then I would believe that they are quality items and I too would probably use them.

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Speedhut has good stuff, I used a full set of their gauges in my 73 Cuda and really like them. If DD had not come out with the 71+ cluster I was seriously thinking about Speedhut. I agree, if they supplied them then I would believe that they are quality items and I too would probably use them.

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The DD set looks like a pretty slick setup. It's pricey though and I didn't start with the Rally dash. It'd be nice not having to worry about relocating my radio though. It'd nice if you could customize it a bit more as well. I'll be curious to see how yours turns out.
 
The DD set looks like a pretty slick setup. It's pricey though and I didn't start with the Rally dash. It'd be nice not having to worry about relocating my radio though. It'd nice if you could customize it a bit more as well. I'll be curious to see how yours turns out.
Yeah its definitely not cheap but its really nice. I have a rally cluster for my car but given that I had already bought a new crate 5.7 and TKX I felt it needed the DD cluster once they became available.

Why do you have to relocate your radio?

Are you referring to customizing the DD cluster?
 
Yeah its definitely not cheap but its really nice. I have a rally cluster for my car but given that I had already bought a new crate 5.7 and TKX I felt it needed the DD cluster once they became available.

Why do you have to relocate your radio?

Are you referring to customizing the DD cluster?
I was saying that the DD cluster doesn't affect your radio placement while the classic dash setup does, a benefit of that system over what I have.
 
I was saying that the DD cluster doesn't affect your radio placement while the classic dash setup does, a benefit of that system over what I have.
Ah gotcha... Yeah I can understand that. On my Cuda I built a dash extension and put my stereo thing because I really never liked the radio position in the E-bodies or 71+ B-bodies either, however I decided to keep the stereo in the stock position in this 71 Charger.
 
Here is what I did for my Cuda. There are several advantages of doing this the least of which is a place for the stereo, you can stuff a lot of electronics inside it. I have a additional fuse panel built inside it which is accessible on the passenger side. There are 2 screws that hold the panel up and it is hinged on the bottom so it drops down and provides great access. You can also put some speakers in this (instead of the kick panels), gauges (I have fuel pressure and AFR), switches (I have a electric antenna switch and others). I also have a 12V power outlet, I should have put a USB but didn't.

Anyway you get the idea, provides a lot of options and does not look horrible. This pic makes it look somewhat skewed but it is in fact square.

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Here is what I did for my Cuda. There are several advantages of doing this the least of which is a place for the stereo, you can stuff a lot of electronics inside it. I have a additional fuse panel built inside it which is accessible on the passenger side. There are 2 screws that hold the panel up and it is hinged on the bottom so it drops down and provides great access. You can also put some speakers in this (instead of the kick panels), gauges (I have fuel pressure and AFR), switches (I have a electric antenna switch and others). I also have a 12V power outlet, I should have put a USB but didn't.

Anyway you get the idea, provides a lot of options and does not look horrible. This pic makes it look somewhat skewed but it is in fact square.

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Nice - I have a 2015 challenger console that I'll be using. The idea will be to remove the HVAC controls and place a stereo there. There's a little ways to go before I get that far though.
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Finally got the rest of the wiring done (or so I thought). Good news first: dash lights up and generally things appear to be working. My wiper harness is too short since I had a non-rally dash. I think I may just create 6 jumper wires instead of trying to extend the harness. Might be easy to mix up the wires too. My parking brake light doesn't work, but I think it's because I haven't wired up the brake master switch yet. The hazard lights kinda work. Blinkers work pretty well. I don't think the flasher likes the LEDs. Is that an easy fix? Been a minute since I've read about that. So a few more wires to go, but electrical is basically done. Next up is fluids. Getting close ...
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Do you have an LED flasher unit? If not try that, if the flashers are going fast you probably need a resistor in the circuit (any auto parts place has them)
 
Do you have an LED flasher unit? If not try that, if the flashers are going fast you probably need a resistor in the circuit (any auto parts place has them)
I just have all the stock stuff in there. Is the blinker flashing the same as the hazard flasher?
 
There should be 2 flasher units, one for normal turn signals and 1 for the hazards. If you have LED bulbs/lights in the turn circuit you will need either/and an LED flasher unit (for both) and/or a resistor. Just google "LED resistor" and you will see them (gold looking deals with a wire coming out both ends). I am sure there is plenty of info online how to install them but whatever you do make sure to mount it away from anything that can melt because they can get hot.
 
There should be 2 flasher units, one for normal turn signals and 1 for the hazards. If you have LED bulbs/lights in the turn circuit you will need either/and an LED flasher unit (for both) and/or a resistor. Just google "LED resistor" and you will see them (gold looking deals with a wire coming out both ends). I am sure there is plenty of info online how to install them but whatever you do make sure to mount it away from anything that can melt because they can get hot.
Where are the flashers located? I have LEDS in the rear of the Coronet, and both turn signals/flashers work fine. Tried to put the front LED bulbs in and it wasn't happy.
 
Typically the flashers are in/near the fuse box but could also be wired independently but then would probably be near the steering column.
 
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One is in a socket mounted to the steering column bracket. The other is behind the ash tray. I'll try the LED flashers first since it's plug and play. If that doesn't work I can try resistors.
 
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