supergluehero
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I have a good ground added to the switch since I'm using a plastic dash. I've checked some of the continuity, but don't know what B/U is to check
72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod
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70chall440
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Found this, hard to read but is says that B/U is a circuit breaker. I know the switch is different but the functions should be the same.
supergluehero
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I do have a W, for the washer I'm guessing. Since I don't have a washer reservoir, I'm not really concerned about that one. That's a good find though. I wonder if the circuit breaker is the same as W for all styles. I'm going to try the continuity testing again and this time write down my values. The fact that my wipers were only working occasionally before I took everything apart makes me feel a little better. I reached out to and Topher he was giving me some things to check, but no dice so far. For what it's worth he said the inside of my switch looked pretty good.
70chall440
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I looked for awhile and this is the only thing I could find that indicated what "B/U" is but I did find a number of places where people were asking the same question (what it was). Seems odd to me that the manual doesn't explain it or provide an indication which them makes me believe it must be something commonly used in that Mopar techs would know what that meant. I have a very wide assortment of manuals and tech data for Mopars but have not found what B/U is, also they reference an "H" I think as well.
Some body knows, maybe @Nacho-RT74 does?
Some body knows, maybe @Nacho-RT74 does?
Never have checked about that, but will search.
I can’t think on a breaker system there, since the wipers are sourced from a fused circuit.
I can’t think on a breaker system there, since the wipers are sourced from a fused circuit.
supergluehero
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I did a continuity test on the switch again. I don't know what B/U is. I assumed it was the W, but I have my doubts. From what I could test everything looks good except one. I think the resistor is in the harness, so I didn't check through it, just terminal to terminal. Also there's not any scenario where P has continuity with the other terminals. I find that to be odd since that's the power wire. My guess at this point is a bad switch.
70chall440
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Yeah it would handy to know what B/U is, but I am pretty sure it is not W because I believe that is your window washer motor feed. I am thinking that the B/U is the "breaker unit" or the thing on the outside of the switch but I am guessing.
The switch could be bad but I would have to think that it can be repaired, they are simple devices for the most part and unless severely damaged (as in crushed) I would think they could be made to work.
supergluehero
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I agree, the W contact lines up in the center with push feature of the shaft. I'm going to ship it across town to Topher to have him take a look. He should be able to take care of it.
70chall440
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Well ask him what B/U stands for... I would really like to know. I am of a mind that if one person can do something I should be able to as well (within reason) so I would like to know what the right procedure is to test the switch meaning I would need to know what the B/U is.
HEMIB
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Must be the breaker unit inside in case the washer motor shorts
High Speed Position:
B to F1 (-28 Ohms {Resistance Through Switch Resistor})
A to F1 (-28 Ohms {Resistance Through Switch Resistor})
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)
Medium Speed Position:
B to F1 (-10 Ohms {Resistance Only Through Dash Harness Brown* Wire via R1})
A to F1 (-10 Ohms {Resistance Only Through Dash Harness Brown* Wire via R1})
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground 0 Ohms
Low Speed Position:
B to F1 (0 Ohms)
A to F1 (0 Ohms)
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)
OFF position:
B to P (0 Ohms)
A to F2 (0 Ohms)
F1 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)
Internal Circuit Breaker:
B to B/U (Always 0 Ohms Regardless of Speed Selection or Off)
supergluehero
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I bench bled my master cylinder last night. That process was easy and went quickly. It all went downhill from there. First off, installing a master with the lid off and full of fluid is a bit precarious, but I managed without spilling. The hard part was trying to connect the proportioning valve lines to the master quickly after removing the bleeding hose and fitting. As soon as you remove the hose, fluid starts dripping out of the master. I was prepared for the dripping, but not prepared for how long it was going to take to get the lines connected. It was a rage inducing process because the hose I wasn't working on kept popping off meaning I have two dripping ports. My lines are tucked up tight against the master, so I had very little room or slack to work with. I ended up cross threading the proportioning valve and having to pull everything out. I was able to save the threads on the valve, but I had to pull it out of the car to insure I didn't end up with metal shavings in my brake lines. It took me a considerable amount of time to reconnect the three supply lines on the bottom of the valve once I put it back in. Bottom line, I don't recommend that process.
Here's the new plan:
1. Reinstall everything.
2. Fill the system
3. I might purge some of the air out of the lines first.
4. Remove the inboard side plugs from the master.
5. Bleed the master from those side plugs with the brake bleeders closed.
6. Bleed the lines.
I know some don't bench bleed at all, but I'm afraid there are some voids in the master that won't gravity bleed if air gets trapped in there. On the plus side, the master sits pretty level in the car, so the odds of that happening are low. I've had squishy brakes before and I want to make sure I get nice solid brakes after spending so much money.
Here's the new plan:
1. Reinstall everything.
2. Fill the system
3. I might purge some of the air out of the lines first.
4. Remove the inboard side plugs from the master.
5. Bleed the master from those side plugs with the brake bleeders closed.
6. Bleed the lines.
I know some don't bench bleed at all, but I'm afraid there are some voids in the master that won't gravity bleed if air gets trapped in there. On the plus side, the master sits pretty level in the car, so the odds of that happening are low. I've had squishy brakes before and I want to make sure I get nice solid brakes after spending so much money.
70chall440
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I think I mentioned that I have never bench bleed a MC until maybe a year ago only to see how that was to work and as you found out, not a fan. I have bleed more MCs than I can remember on the car, in fact I would clarify that very rarely if ever have I bled the MC, rather I have bled the entire system at once.
Glad you got it on there though.
Glad you got it on there though.
supergluehero
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Yeah, you earned a well deserved "I told you so". Bleeding the master on the car (in the prescribed way) won't be any easier due to how hard it is to connect the lines, so I'm hoping my modified method will work out.
70chall440
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Its all good.
supergluehero
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Went to install my conversion U-joint today. It didn't go well.
By the way a Moog 347 is not compatible despite what advance auto says.
I ordered a new U-joint from Dr. Diff that is hopefully correct.
In search of a win for the evening, I installed my new map light panel.
First time I've had a functioning map light.
By the way a Moog 347 is not compatible despite what advance auto says.
I ordered a new U-joint from Dr. Diff that is hopefully correct.
In search of a win for the evening, I installed my new map light panel.
First time I've had a functioning map light.
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70chall440
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I think we all have had those days... Good job on the map light, I need to repair mine (switch is bad) and install it as well.
supergluehero
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While waiting for a new u-joint I decided to set my gauge presets. Tach, low fuel and coolant temperature were easy. I'm trying to find what I should set my low oil pressure level to, but I'm coming up with a variety of answers. Thoughts?
Also my fuel gauge is reading 1/4 tank when it is bone dry. I verified the ohm range from Aeromotive (10-73) as well as took some readings at the tank. Oddly enough the gauge doesn't care if the ground wire is connected or not. It still reads 1/4. If I remove the sender wire it goes straight to full as expected. I checked the ohm reading at the sender and it's 53 ohms (about right for 1/4 tank). Also if I connect the sender to ground it goes full as expected. What's going on here? Is the float hung up or something or am I missing something?
No resistance = full
Disconnected = empty
Connected = 1/4 full (53ohms)
Also my fuel gauge is reading 1/4 tank when it is bone dry. I verified the ohm range from Aeromotive (10-73) as well as took some readings at the tank. Oddly enough the gauge doesn't care if the ground wire is connected or not. It still reads 1/4. If I remove the sender wire it goes straight to full as expected. I checked the ohm reading at the sender and it's 53 ohms (about right for 1/4 tank). Also if I connect the sender to ground it goes full as expected. What's going on here? Is the float hung up or something or am I missing something?
No resistance = full
Disconnected = empty
Connected = 1/4 full (53ohms)
supergluehero
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In other news my rear end was leaking at the new drain plug. I tried a couple of things and it's still got a slow leak. Turns out it's not the plug at all. It's the weld around the half coupling. That sucks.
70chall440
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Id set the low oil pressure to light up at 30 psi or so, kind of personal preference.
I can't help with fuel level deal, seems odd and I would be investigating the float location if possible.
HEMIB
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Pretty sure you can pull the filler pipe out of the rubber grommet & see the float through the hole there is small taps on the fuel fuel sensor that be bent slightly to adjust minimum but 1/4 is a fair way out .Have you tried shorting the sensor wire to ground to prove the problem is not at the gauge.
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