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72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

I started looking at what I might need for a shifter arm. I went with a pistol grip shifter, so that means I need a double bend shifter stick. I need about 7" of rear offset, with about 7-8" of rise. Poking around the internet, there aren't many options. Especially in a 1/2-20 thread size. The Hurst shifter has an adapter that goes from some thread larger than 1/2" and reduces it down to 1/2-20. That fitting also has a boot retainer that I won't be able to use there. I'm thinking I'm going to have to make something to get the shifter where I want it. Any suggestions?
Can you post some pictures bc I am not understanding what you are saying. What is 1/2-20?
 
1/2"-20 or 1/2 UNF thread.
Yeah I get that but I am trying to figure out what is threaded for that. On all of my pistol grip equipped cars (3 of them) I use 3/8 bolts to connect the handle to the shifter and on the A833 equipped cars they use long 3/8 bolts to connect the shifter to the mount.
 
Yeah I get that but I am trying to figure out what is threaded for that. On all of my pistol grip equipped cars (3 of them) I use 3/8 bolts to connect the handle to the shifter and on the A833 equipped cars they use long 3/8 bolts to connect the shifter to the mount.
Oh, sorry. I misunderstood the question. Here's what it looks like. Not sure of the thread size going into the handle.
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Not a lot to report recently as I've had to go through and re-flare every single one of my brake lines. The only flare I didn't touch was one of the two going into the T-block at the axle. I can't re-flare it without redoing the entire line. It held through my first bleeding attempt, so I'm crossing my fingers. In the meantime I added some JB-weld to my axle drain and so far so good. Hard to see since I used clear JB-weld. It's all I had and it would show leakage underneath (theoretically). Just a few more small items to cross off before I crank it up for the first time.
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Started going through the Terminator setup wizard and I have the 68271094ab Mopar map sensor. That's not listed as an option. Anyone know how to proceed?

Also the wizard stops right after that. It doesn't give me the option of selecting my IAC sensor. Since I have a GM sensor, I need to change it.
 
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I got advice from a Gen 3 Hemi facebook group to use the existing MAP sensor but select the other Chrysler option in the wizard. So far, the values appear correct. Everything else looks good except my battery needs a good charge and for some reason my IAT sensor is saying it's 118F in a 60F garage. Gotta figure that one out. I was able to finally bleed my brakes without a leak. I then filled and bled my clutch master. I got my transmission fluid added and my power steering bled partially. Turns out I forgot to add the steering column bushing to the bottom of the large tube on the engine side of the firewall (directions in the RMS kit pretty much omitted this step). So now I have to partially pull the steering column so I can install that. Otherwise the u-joint on the shaft flops around and hits my headers. So just those few issues and need to prime the oil system and I'm good to fire it up for the first time.
 
I primed my oil pump tonight. I used the top port first by the oil filter, no issues had oil all the way to the top of the engine. I then used the bottom port to prime the pump. I have a decent leak coming from the oil filter. It appears to be in between the filter and the 45deg adapter. I can't turn the filter anymore by hand, but I'm pretty sure I tightened it the proper amount when it was on the stand. I probably need to pick up a cup style wrench for tightening the filter. There's not a lot of room there. It is the same filter that came with the crate motor. I suppose the gasket might not be good to reuse, but it seemed OK when I disassembled it originally. Any thoughts on what I should do? Is it possible to over pressurize the filter? I would think it would blow the tube off the barbed fitting connected to my hand pump before that.
 
You can over pressurize a filter but it would take a lot. It is more likely that there is a piece of crap between the gasket and the mating surface or the mating surface has an issue. It should seal by hand and not require a wrench of any kind
 
I tried removing the filter to inspect it and it was very loose, not exactly sure why though. The 45deg adapter doesn't give me enough room to tighten by hand so I'm go to pick up a wrench and give it another try.
 
I'm not getting power to my fuel pump relay. I've confirmed the relay is good and my fuel pump is good. The relay is wired different from what I've seen. Not sure how this works with only one wire on the non power side.
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The black wire tees into the grounds for the coil drivers. So what's actually triggering the relay? Red is power from the battery. Green is power to the pump.
 
Did the relay come as a part of a harness? I am not saying it is wired wrong but it doesn't seem right. Do you have the wiring diagram?
 
It came that way wired into the harness. I'm looking for a wiring diagram but the closest Ive found is for an LS application. In that one it had a loose wire coming out of the ground tee and it had a red wire coming into the currently white plugged port.
 
It came that way wired into the harness. I'm looking for a wiring diagram but the closest Ive found is for an LS application. In that one it had a loose wire coming out of the ground tee and it had a red wire coming into the currently white plugged port.
Where did the harness come from? Who made it?
 
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