72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[70chall440]

Yes you should be able to see what the blade is doing with the AC off. You might need to rig up a stand alone IAT so that you can still get input from that. I had this issue with the EFI 6 pack system in my Challenger and had to adjust the blades slightly.

As to the potential vacuum leak, you might try spraying a little carb cleaner around the intake and anywhere there could be a leak, if the RPM increases thats a leak.

 

[supergluehero]

Yes you should be able to see what the blade is doing with the AC off. You might need to rig up a stand alone IAT so that you can still get input from that. I had this issue with the EFI 6 pack system in my Challenger and had to adjust the blades slightly.

As to the potential vacuum leak, you might try spraying a little carb cleaner around the intake and anywhere there could be a leak, if the RPM increases thats a leak.

The IAT is reading high anyway, still waiting for the replacement sensor to come in. Really hoping it's not a vacuum leak. That was a big reason I started my swap. My 318 had a vacuum leak I could never solve.

 

[70chall440]

So you went through all of this swap because of a vacuum leak in a 318? You definitely took the long way around... lol A vacuum leak is not something to fear, you just need to find it and then determine why it exists, then do whatever is necessary to fix it (new gasket, machine something, etc).

 

[6872n73]

Yes, Yes and Yes.
The iac only has a limited range of adjustment, if the blade is open to far (air leak) then the iac is out of its range of operation. And yes if the pvc, intake, brake booster has a leak then the blade will not close enough. When all of the vacuum leaks are fixed and the blade can then be adjusted manually until the iac gets into range.

When the engine is at the range of idle then the iac will should take over, if it is wired backwards then idle control will respond in reverse as expected. A higher load = higher iac ; lower load = low iac

 

[supergluehero]

So you went through all of this swap because of a vacuum leak in a 318? You definitely took the long way around... lol A vacuum leak is not something to fear, you just need to find it and then determine why it exists, then do whatever is necessary to fix it (new gasket, machine something, etc).

The intake needed machining to eliminate the vacuum leak and I didn't want to go through the effort and cost since I was planning the swap anyway. It just sped up my timing.

 

[supergluehero]

I pulled the intake tube off and cranked it up. You could hear the rushing past the IAC even though it's supposed to be at 0%. I covered the port with my finger and the idle dropped down where it should be, couldn't see, but it sounded right. I thought Holley may have given me bad instructions on the IAC pin out so I swapped it back. It's still doing the same thing. Not sure what's going on. Is it a setting issue or maybe I have a bad IAC?

 

[6872n73]

Check the wiring from each pin at the iac to the ecm, you should have a wiring diagram with the holley ecu manual, if not you can download from the holley site.

 

[supergluehero]

Check the wiring from each pin at the iac to the ecm, you should have a wiring diagram with the holley ecu manual, if not you can download from the holley site.

Good idea, not sure why I didn't think of that. It appears they wired the plug backwards. I'll talk to Holley later today to confirm.

 

[supergluehero]

Holley got me the right wire pin out and guess what? When all the wires are there and in the right order it works. Still need to let get up to temperature but I had to address some fuel line issues first. I got that knocked out and then finished my exhaust. Only minor trimming necessary.

I kept the bubble wrap on the headers for as long as I could to protect them. That bit me. I've got a clearance issue I couldn't spot before and I must have miss a small remnant of wrap before I fired it up. Now it matches the oil stains on the other side. Gonna have to try a few things to clean that up.

Moving along. First drive is getting closer.

 

[6872n73]

FYI, when i installed a tko500 the reverse switch from the a833 screwed into the tko500 and I was able to used the factory harness. Something you might check on if your using the factory reverse light on the dash.

 

[supergluehero]

FYI, when i installed a tko500 the reverse switch from the a833 screwed into the tko500 and I was able to used the factory harness. Something you might check on if your using the factory reverse light on the dash.

My TKX came with a pigtail that I spliced into the factory harness. One of those things that worked first try.

 

[supergluehero]

My 3 speed wiper switch is dead and I've got a little sticker shock seeing how much even the non-ralley ones cost. Anyone have one or know what other switches are compatible? The E-body ones look pretty close. I'm more concerned about the plug matching rather that the length of it.

 

[supergluehero]

Put in an order for a new rally style wiper switch today. Now I need to figure out the light switch. How easy is to remove the stem from the knob? If I can do that I can cut down the non special end.

My fuel gauge wasn't working. Ohms were reading empty so I picked up a $35 endoscope off Amazon. The float was stuck. Sacrificed a metal hanger to free it up and we're in business. Hopefully it won't do that every time the gas is low.

 

[70chall440]

The light switch is relatively easy, there is a button on the back that you depress and then pull the stem out. At that point you can use a pair of needle nose pliers or a snap ring pliers to unscrew the bezel nut.

 

[supergluehero]

The light switch is relatively easy, there is a button on the back that you depress and then pull the stem out. At that point you can use a pair of needle nose pliers or a snap ring pliers to unscrew the bezel nut.

Oh yeah I've done that. I'm talking about after that. The knob is attached to the metal stem. Because it's a non-rally switch, it's too long. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make it shorter.

 

[70chall440]

Oh yeah I've done that. I'm talking about after that. The knob is attached to the metal stem. Because it's a non-rally switch, it's too long. I'm trying to figure out the best way to make it shorter.

Oh sorry my bad, I misunderstood. I'd think someone on here would have a rally style stem.

 

[6872n73]

How about keep the knob and cut the shaft off and reshape cut off end?

 

[supergluehero]

How about keep the knob and cut the shaft off and reshape cut off end?

Yeah I could try that l. I'd be worried I wouldn't get the profile just right.

 

[70chall440]

Yeah I could try that l. I'd be worried I wouldn't get the profile just right.

You only need the slot the right spot, that is what the gate on the inside drops into to hold the stem in when you pull it to turn them on.

It can be done but I would be on the "wanted" threads here, eBay, call Stephens Performance or Wildcat Salvage.

 

[supergluehero]

I got my new MAT sensor today and it was also reporting 120F. Turns out you have to change out the sensor type, but it can't be done on the hand held. It only took 3 calls to tech support to sort that out. On the plus side now I have a backup sensor.

I cranked it back up and could still hear it pulsing from the driver side. Turns out I have an exhaust leak on the header flange. I retorqued the bolts, but it's still got a leak. I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the header off and apply some RTV.

The engine isn't idling down like it's supposed to once it gets to temperature. It's idling around 1000 cold, but it doesn't change when it gets up to temperature. I'll go back later once the engine is cool and retorque my intake bolts to make sure I don't have a vacuum leak.

For those of you with Terminator's, what does the learn process look like? Mine gets to about 5% and stops there. Granted I've only let it idle and only long enough to get up to temperature. Is that normal?