72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[70chall440]

In other news my rear end was leaking at the new drain plug. I tried a couple of things and it's still got a slow leak. Turns out it's not the plug at all. It's the weld around the half coupling. That sucks.
View attachment 1596574

That sucks, however JB weld is your friend. You can try and reweld it but since it has lube in the cracks/holes it is going to be a pain.

I'd drain it, clean it as best you can (carb and/or brake cleaner) and then wipe it down with some acetone, then apply some JB weld and let it cure.

 

[supergluehero]

That sucks, however JB weld is your friend. You can try and reweld it but since it has lube in the cracks/holes it is going to be a pain.

I'd drain it, clean it as best you can (carb and/or brake cleaner) and then wipe it down with some acetone, then apply some JB weld and let it cure.

Probably worth a shot. If it works, then I can avoid rewelding. At least it's clean new fluid. I should be able to reuse it. I'd say at least I don't have to remove the third member to drain it, but then again the drain is why it's leaking.

 

[70chall440]

Probably worth a shot. If it works, then I can avoid rewelding. At least it's clean new fluid. I should be able to reuse it. I'd say at least I don't have to remove the third member to drain it, but then again the drain is why it's leaking.

It will work so long as you clean it, since this is the drain, you can blast some cleaner in there and let it run clear, any residual will evaporate. I would make sure to clean off any paint or anything else. Mix the JB as per the instructions and off you go. I have used it on many many things over the years and seldom if ever had it fail. I have used it on fuel tanks, rear ends, transmissions, etc.

 

[supergluehero]

I dropped the tank today to check my issue with the fuel sender. Found out the float is resting on the sloped portion of the tank, but not at the bottom of its range. I was able to adjust it up so now it's at the bottom of the range, but there's a decent amount of volume below "empty" now. Also "full" is above the top of the tank. Not a great design by Aeromotive. I'm going to have to do a manual calibration of my gauge. I'll talk to Aeromotive to at least let them know the issue. Maybe they have an alternative sender they send me

 

[70chall440]

Seems to me that the float should be going the other direction (i.e. front to back) but maybe that isn't possible.

 

[supergluehero]

Seems to me that the float should be going the other direction (i.e. front to back) but maybe that isn't possible.

Hard to say whether it would clear. I think it's gonna rub the foam though.

 

[supergluehero]

I spoke with Aeromotive today. They understood the issue, but didn't have a whole lot of suggestions other try and bend the rod so the float is at the same angle as the bottom of the tank. After a couple of test fits, I was able to get it to read 71 ohms while resting on the bottom. It isn't quite bottomed out in the range because it's supposed to go to 73 ohms. Fine for me though since my gauge is a 70-10 ohm range.

I also got my new u-joint today. The driveshaft manufacturer used a GM style yoke (1310). That wasn't clear to me as I assumed it was a 7260 on both sides. The 7260 and 1310 are very close dimensionally. I ended up getting a 1310 to 3290 u-joint. I got it installed on the driveshaft and will get it put back in the car tomorrow.

 

[supergluehero]

Finally got around to fixing my parking brake cable routing. I ran it through the rear torque box and to the inside of the rear lower control arm. I was going to route both this way, but the passenger side benefits from the extra radius. Also it would have been a lot more work, so there's that too.

 

[supergluehero]

Tonight was one of those nights. I went to bleed the brakes and quickly found a leak on my passenger front. Apparently the flare was bad. It was the first one I did, so that makes sense. I rented a flaring tool from the parts store only to find out it was broken. I also found a leak in the line going to the rear. All this and I haven't put pressure to the lines yet. I just invested in my own flaring tool that should be better than what I get at the parts store, so we'll see how that goes.

 

[70chall440]

I have a number of flaring tools to include a turret style and a hydraulic. I can say without hesitation that I have never had any flares done with the hydraulic tool fail. I just got the turret one so time will tell.

 

[supergluehero]

This is the tool I've got coming. It looks identical to the Eastwood version.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV?ref_=pe_386300_442618370_TE_sc_as_ri_0&th=1

I'm hoping the small size will allow me to flare the line on the car. If I have to remove the passenger front line, that's going to be a bad day.

 

[70chall440]

This is the tool I've got coming. It looks identical to the Eastwood version.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPRVCPV?ref_=pe_386300_442618370_TE_sc_as_ri_0&th=1

I'm hoping the small size will allow me to flare the line on the car. If I have to remove the passenger front line, that's going to be a bad day.

Yeah I have one of those as well exactly for that reason (flaring lines on a vehicle) but I have yet to use it. Do some test flares first and get the hang of it, IME every flare tool has little issues that you need to know to produce really quality flares.

 

[supergluehero]

Yeah I have one of those as well exactly for that reason (flaring lines on a vehicle) but I have yet to use it. Do some test flares first and get the hang of it, IME every flare tool has little issues that you need to know to produce really quality flares.

Agreed - I was glad we tried some test flares last night even though I've used that type of tool before. It was broken in several ways and we wouldn't have known until it was too late.

 

[supergluehero]

I tried out my new flaring tool tonight. I didn't realize how bad my other flares were until I compared it to a good one. I should have bought this long ago. Well worth the money. Here's an example of parts store rental in comparison. To be fair, the rental was broken so it wasn't doing the best.

 

[ckessel]

The rental side reminds me of my old Blue Point unit that I bought back in the 70's. I found that the little rib it leaves behind on both sides of the tube, you can see one of yours on the top, makes it where the dopey thing won't stop leaking. It's because the flare nut is only hitting on those two ribs. I found that if you file those down flush with the rest of the tube it will let it seal up. Plus you see the serrations left behind on the tube. The hydraulic ones do a better flare and don't leave the serrations. I added a hydro unit from Mastercool to my stash some years ago. Does multiple types of flares.

 

[HEMIB]

I tried out my new flaring tool tonight. I didn't realize how bad my other flares were until I compared it to a good one. I should have bought this long ago. Well worth the money. Here's an example of parts store rental in comparison. To be fair, the rental was broken so it wasn't doing the best.
View attachment 1601757

Great Flare that should seal up

 

[supergluehero]

One thing that may not be readily apparent: the tool I'm using can be used with the line still on the car and it only cost $36. It's cheaper than renting one (assuming you forget to return it).

 

[supergluehero]

Must be the breaker unit inside in case the washer motor shorts
High Speed Position:
B to F1 (-28 Ohms {Resistance Through Switch Resistor})
A to F1 (-28 Ohms {Resistance Through Switch Resistor})
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)

Medium Speed Position:
B to F1 (-10 Ohms {Resistance Only Through Dash Harness Brown* Wire via R1})
A to F1 (-10 Ohms {Resistance Only Through Dash Harness Brown* Wire via R1})
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground 0 Ohms

Low Speed Position:
B to F1 (0 Ohms)
A to F1 (0 Ohms)
B to A (0 Ohms)
F2 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)

OFF position:
B to P (0 Ohms)
A to F2 (0 Ohms)
F1 to Chassis Ground (0 Ohms)

Internal Circuit Breaker:
B to B/U (Always 0 Ohms Regardless of Speed Selection or Off)

Got word from Topher last night that the breaker was bad, so good call.

 

[70chall440]

Well at least now you know.

 

[supergluehero]

I started looking at what I might need for a shifter arm. I went with a pistol grip shifter, so that means I need a double bend shifter stick. I need about 7" of rear offset, with about 7-8" of rise. Poking around the internet, there aren't many options. Especially in a 1/2-20 thread size. The Hurst shifter has an adapter that goes from some thread larger than 1/2" and reduces it down to 1/2-20. That fitting also has a boot retainer that I won't be able to use there. I'm thinking I'm going to have to make something to get the shifter where I want it. Any suggestions?