72 Satellite Gen III Hemi Restomod

[supergluehero]

I came to my senses and just extended the harness for the wiper switch. Kinda annoying but it's a much better idea than trying to make individual jumpers. I also wired up the brake master switch. Haven't retested yet to confirm the parking light works yet. LED flashers are going in tomorrow. So that's pretty much a wrap on electrical until I do the center console and radio.

I left the cotter pin off the brake booster thinking I might have to take it out again. Then I went and installed the steering column. Now it's going to be very difficult to get that pin in. I'll pull the master so I can bench bleed. Then it's on to fluids.

 

[70chall440]

I rarely if ever bench bled my MC, maybe if I am doing a straight replacement but in something like this since EVERYTHING is dry I would not bother (I am assuming everything is dry). Bench bleeding tends (at least for me) to help on a system that already has some fluid in the lines, calipers and/or cylinders.

That said, you can bench bleed right on the car if you like, same procedure except that the MC is mounted, make/get tubed that go from the outlets to the bowls, fill up the MC and begin slowly pumping (does help if there are 2 people). Pump until there is no air coming out.

You can also just fill the bowls and let it sit, they will bleed down allowing the air to come up/out. In this method you run hoses/lines from the outlet down into a catch can/bucket/soda bottle, etc. and you just let gravity do its thing.

Just make sure you cover everything for these 2 methods as it tends to get a little messy.

 

[ckessel]

Purged brake fluid makes great weed killer. Can suck the moisture right out AND is water soluble. Unless its synthetic or dot5.

 

[supergluehero]

Went to replace the u-joint strap on the rear and noticed that the u-joint has quite a bit of play in the yoke. Doesn't seem quite right. I measured my old u-joint and it's the same size as the new one. Do you just center it up as best as you can or did it have the wrong size u-joint in there to begin with?

 

[70chall440]

Yeah that doesn't look right, normally the yoke has little tabs cast into it so that the U joint caps sit against them centering the U joint. My thought is that you have a 7260 joint on the drive shaft but a 7290 yoke on the rearend. Just google up mopar U joint sizes and you will get the actual measurements.

 

[supergluehero]

Yeah that doesn't look right, normally the yoke has little tabs cast into it so that the U joint caps sit against them centering the U joint. My thought is that you have a 7260 joint on the drive shaft but a 7290 yoke on the rearend. Just google up mopar U joint sizes and you will get the actual measurements.

That looks like the case. Gotta lover previous owners who do stupid stuff.

 

[supergluehero]

Got the gauge panel rewired with the new LED flashers. I bought some with built-in ground wires. No flash at all now. I wonder if I should put the old flashers back in and try resistors. Thoughts? Also what ohm resistors should I try?

Also the parking brake light still doesn't work. I think my pedal may be adjusted too tight and it's not engaging the switch, so I'll look into that tomorrow.

 

[70chall440]

Got the gauge panel rewired with the new LED flashers. I bought some with built-in ground wires. No flash at all now. I wonder if I should put the old flashers back in and try resistors. Thoughts? Also what ohm resistors should I try?

Also the parking brake light still doesn't work. I think my pedal may be adjusted too tight and it's not engaging the switch, so I'll look into that tomorrow.

Interesting but I do not think real uncommon. On my Cuda I put an LED flash into it and it didn't work either, then I installed 1 of these 6 ohm resisters (not 2, just one) and the turn signals worked.

SYLVANIA LED Load Resistor, 2 Pack - Walmart.com

 

[supergluehero]

Interesting but I do not think real uncommon. On my Cuda I put an LED flash into it and it didn't work either, then I installed 1 of these 6 ohm resisters (not 2, just one) and the turn signals worked.

SYLVANIA LED Load Resistor, 2 Pack - Walmart.com

I read that the leads are specific on the electronic flashers and mine could be backwards. I'm going to check that.

Also my wipers are dead so not sure what's going on there.

 

[70chall440]

You could be right about the flasher being backwards, I really don't know about that.

Do you have a Power Probe? If not, the single best electrical tool you can own.

 

[supergluehero]

So a little progress today. The polarity on the electronic flashers was backwards. Made a quick jumper and they were working perfect.

Parking brake light still doesn't work even after loosening up the pedal. More investigation needed there.

With regards to the wipers, I've got power going into the switch but none coming out. Those switches run $125 and up used. I've seen a couple of videos of people taking apart the switch to clean and recondition them. Anybody done that for these 3 speed switches?

 

[supergluehero]

I'm looking at the test chart in chapter 8 of the service manual and it has a bunch of things to check. Most of it I understand except the B/U. What is that supposed to be? I'm considering trying to open the switch to fix it myself. I've either got to pay to get the switch rebuilt or buy another one (preferably a rally style one that's shorter). I'm thinking I pry back all the silver tabs and the housing will lift off. The only snag I see is that it looks like one of the connections was soldered together. I'm thinking I can remove that connection and then re-solder when complete. Worst thing I do is break a (probably broken) switch. Crazy idea or no?

 

[70chall440]

So this is for the motor, however the wires from the switch should essentially go to the motor except for the power in.

MOPAR 3 SPEED WIPER MOTOR BENCH TEST​

• High Speed
• Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground
• Connect second jumper wire from battery positive to BROWN lead

Motor should run on high speed continuously

• 
  
• Low Speed
• Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground
• Connect jumper wire from GREEN wire to batter ground
• Join the BROWN and RED wires together and connect to battery positive

Motor should run on slow speed continuously

• Park
• Connect jumper wire from motor case to battery ground
• Connect jumper wire from GREEN to BROWN
• Connect jumper wire from RED to ground
• Connect jumper from BLUE to positive

Motor should reverse and park

 

[70chall440]

I went to the wiring diagram and corrected this, it should now be accurate for a 71 B body.

 

[supergluehero]

Wiper motor was rebuilt, so no need to test it (hopefully). There's a section dedicated to testing the switch which I was referring to. I meant to post this picture of the solder connection I was referring to. (Left tab)

On a side note, I got my parking brake light working. The switch is a ground switch, so I had to pull power from the dark blue traced wire and route my ground through the black traced wire. Been a while to be this happy to see a red light.

 

[70chall440]

I think you can definitely take the switch apart, I would for sure.

 

[supergluehero]

I think you can definitely take the switch apart, I would for sure.

That's just the answer I was hoping for. Thanks! Here's the back. You can see the pins labeled pretty well.

 

[70chall440]

No problem, I have taken a lot of the old switches apart and usually find that they are not that difficult to disassemble, clean, repair and reassemble them.

There are some switches that have crimped sides that are more difficult to deal with but even they can be done.

 

[supergluehero]

I was able to get the switch apart without issue. The grease was a little dark, but nothing crazy. I gave it a good cleaning and put it back together. However I'm getting nothing. I get power coming in on the P terminal, but no power goes out on any other terminal. Not sure where to go from here. Mechanically it appears to be working fine.

 

[64fury74charger]

Did you have the switch grounded and maybe check with a digital ohm meter and see if there’s continuity between the terminals.