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727 Full manual reverse valve body- third gear adjustment

Excessive play/slop in any linkage system is not good. Bushings are still available I believe. With the clip out of the rod in the lever on the trans it should freely go in and out of the lever hole in every detent position for every range (P-R-N-D-2-1). Any other result means the adjustment is not correct and needs to be corrected. Good luck!
Mike
 
When the valve body was installed there should of been very little adjustment needed. It wouldn’t matter that first and third are opposite. There is also a bushing under the consol top plate for the torque shaft. As stated b4 slop in any bushing is no good. Kim
 
I run the same valve body and factory linkage. The bushing in the bracket is pretty sloppy from the factory. I turned a new bushing on the lathe. That being said the turbo action valve body uses the same rooter comb as stock. Put the shifter in 3rd. Loosen the adjuster. Adjust the rod so that it falls in the shift arm at the trans. Then put it in park and test the same way. You may have to cheat the adjustment a 1/16" one way or the other to split the difference. When it goes into both park and 3rd tighten the bolt for good and put the retaining clip back in.
Doug
 
I run the same valve body and factory linkage. The bushing in the bracket is pretty sloppy from the factory. I turned a new bushing on the lathe. That being said the turbo action valve body uses the same rooter comb as stock. Put the shifter in 3rd. Loosen the adjuster. Adjust the rod so that it falls in the shift arm at the trans. Then put it in park and test the same way. You may have to cheat the adjustment a 1/16" one way or the other to split the difference. When it goes into both park and 3rd tighten the bolt for good and put the retaining clip back in.
Doug
Thanks Doug. Will give that a try as soon as I can today.
 
Wonder if the shift lever isn't all the way on? There should be no movement.
 
Wonder if the shift lever isn't all the way on? There should be no movement.
As far as I can tell, it’s on ok. I think it was close to being good to go today. The adjustment procedure that Doug suggested seems to be my best option to get it working as it was. It’s so close to the end of the swivel clamp to get third but Park is touchy, and I will try slightly adjusting it opposite to split the difference and hopefully everything will be back to normal. My guess is a lot of aggravation would be eliminated if the lower rod was about 1/4-3/8” longer. I can’t remember how close to the end of the block it was, maybe it was even in a slight amount to get the park travel necessary. In the process of trying to get the adjustment done today, somehow the shifter slide in the console broke behind the shifter leaving a hole there when shifter is all the way forward and supposed to be in park. Tomorrow I will try to adjust to get shifting problem resolved, then I will look into replacing the shifter slide. Thanks to all who weighed in. I will post any news, good or bad.
 
As far as I can tell, it’s on ok. I think it was close to being good to go today. The adjustment procedure that Doug suggested seems to be my best option to get it working as it was. It’s so close to the end of the swivel clamp to get third but Park is touchy, and I will try slightly adjusting it opposite to split the difference and hopefully everything will be back to normal. My guess is a lot of aggravation would be eliminated if the lower rod was about 1/4-3/8” longer. I can’t remember how close to the end of the block it was, maybe it was even in a slight amount to get the park travel necessary. In the process of trying to get the adjustment done today, somehow the shifter slide in the console broke behind the shifter leaving a hole there when shifter is all the way forward and supposed to be in park. Tomorrow I will try to adjust to get shifting problem resolved, then I will look into replacing the shifter slide. Thanks to all who weighed in. I will post any news, good or bad.
Just to update everyone who weighed in, I finally got it resolved. Lots of back and forth, but after trying Doug’s suggestion multiple times, I got it set and working perfectly. It’s definitely a fine line getting third and park working as they should. Things aren’t exactly sloppy, as I mentioned previously, and the movement I observed is mostly in the swivel clamp area. The bushing in the arm is a good fit, no significant play in the torque shaft coming down from the shifter. After double checking everything I put the car down and test drove, all good. Now I have to figure out how to get into the console inside the car, to figure out how to replace the shifter slide cover. Somehow in the process of adjusting the linkage underneath, it broke behind the shifter arm, leaving the slot behind shift arm open. Didn’t feel like dealing with it today, but will take a look later this week. I guess it will give me the chance to inspect the other bushing under the console plate that Kim mentioned. Anyone with tips on getting the console off to do these things, I’d appreciate your suggestions. I supposed I should request Thais in a different forum though. Thanks again to all, for the help on the shift linkage problem. Very grateful for the support.
 
Did u ever get the slider changed? Kim
Hey Kim-sorry for the late reply. Answer; yes, sort of. That slide was one purchased from Year One and installed by a shop in 2016. It cracked just behind the hole for the shifter. There was a fellow on here that was selling his own home made slides, and I bought one to try. While waiting to receive it, I pulled the console top off and tried a temporary fix by overlaying it with black electrical tape. It looks good, and it's going on 2 years as a temporary fix.:p The slide I purchased is still in the envelope i my tool box...it looks good, and I will swap the taped one for it in the near future, hopefully.
 
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