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I'll never give up my pushbutton shifter!
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CSI Miami was on the scene when I left, probably they will have the tale shaft in custody by morning!Looks like a murder scene.
It's more like Columbo or Kojak are needed to get down to the root of the problem. Radio in for ballistics to have a sniff around the crime scene.CSI Miami was on the scene when I left, probably they will have the tale shaft in custody by morning!
Berreta showed up with a broken snap ring - and you can take that to the bank!!!It's more like Columbo or Kojak are needed to get down to the root of the problem. Radio in for ballistics to have a sniff around the crime scene.
Broken snap ring is from the governor assembly. Pull the tailshaft housing to see what happened in there. Likely FUBAR, and looks like Doug's picture. I think I can see the ball that drives the rear pump in that shrapnel.Berreta showed up with a broken snap ring - and you can take that to the bank!!!
After removing the sprag and chunks falling out, the park gear would spin freely with an ice pick. didn't get the housing removed yet, wouldn't you know of all the snap ring tools in the box, didn't have the correct one to spread the snap ring to remove the housing - it will be here Friday! Any suggestions for making this thing Bullet Proof? A&A is my first thought.I'm assumimg those parts are aluminum by the look of them. If so they are more than likely not park pawl material. Unless the park gear exploded and hit the case.
Doug
View attachment 1781738
If your not going to do it yourself? Build them all the time. I live about 2 1/2 hrs away from you. If you just need a recipe for what will work let me know.After removing the sprag and chunks falling out, the park gear would spin freely with an ice pick. didn't get the housing removed yet, wouldn't you know of all the snap ring tools in the box, didn't have the correct one to spread the snap ring to remove the housing - it will be here Friday! Any suggestions for making this thing Bullet Proof? A&A is my first thought.
Gary
Thanks Doug, this race car is on my "bucket list", doing it myself regardless of the time it takes! My mind thinks I'm 35, the body feels my mind is an IDIOT!!! A good recipe would be very helpful, been an A 833 guy all my life, 727 Tourlite I'm out of my element but learning the hard way - ouch!If your not going to do it yourself? Build them all the time. I live about 2 1/2 hrs away from you. If you just need a recipe for what will work let me know.
Doug
If it doesn't have a late model input shaft that should be done. This requires a 67-76 input shaft and a 71-76 reaction shaft support (or the entire 71-76 pump). You can use 67-70 but the aftermarket drums use the wide bushing 71-76 direct drum. And it should also get a good billet front drum. I prefer aluminum due to the lighter weight. 3.8 or 4.2 KD lever with the aluminum drum. I like the 5.0 lever when using the steel drum, as it is heavy and the band needs the additional clamp load. 15 springs in the front clutch .015"/friction clearance. use a solid snap ring istead of the wave style. They are selective. It'll need a .065" or .080". With 5 frictions it'll be right about .070". Set the direct drum to .025". If using the aluminum drum, use steel seal rings on the reaction shaft support. Not Teflon as they will wear the drum. All other sealing rings can be Teflon. If the KD servo is the 5/8" style pin. Remove the small snap ring to remove the spring and discard. Then shim the rod with (2) #3 brass thrust washer (get 2 extra input/output shaft thrust washers). The servo pin will now be solid. Either 3 or 4 pin planets will work. The Ultimate Sprage is stonger. Allthough with a good drum if the low roller clutch (sprag) fails it won't explode. Use good quality frictions. High end Borg Warner, Raybestos, or Alto. The A&A drums use 5 of the thinner .063" frictions (same as the direct drum). Do not use a Kevlar band with the aluminum drum. I've been using solid cast red lined KD bands. But they are pretty pricey when you add the core price. You might see if Rick at A&A could recomend a good quality flex band instead. I'm assuming your valve body is a Turbo Action which is fine. The Amazon 46 RH pans are awesome and cheap. But they require a thick 1.5" filter spacer. Make sure you use a Daycron fiter, not the screen mesh. If the rear band is in good shape reuse it. Mods we can get into: Open up the reaction shaft support oil feed with a cut off wheel, drill the rear of the case for .060" oiling hole, block and relocate the vent.Thanks Doug, this race car is on my "bucket list", doing it myself regardless of the time it takes! My mind thinks I'm 35, the body feels my mind is an IDIOT!!! A good recipe would be very helpful, been an A 833 guy all my life, 727 Tourlite I'm out of my element but learning the hard way - ouch!
Gary
Thanks again for the recipe, sounds pretty bullet proof to me. After the tail housing is off and check the damage will give me an idea of direction. Will email the recipe to the former owner to clarify the changes/ mods he made in the trans. Does have deep finned pan/ spacer/ dacryon filter/ Turbo Action reverse manual valve body/ 4200 stall!If it doesn't have a late model input shaft that should be done. This requires a 67-76 input shaft and a 71-76 reaction shaft support (or the entire 71-76 pump). You can use 67-70 but the aftermarket drums use the wide bushing 71-76 direct drum. And it should also get a good billet front drum. I prefer aluminum due to the lighter weight. 3.8 or 4.2 KD lever with the aluminum drum. I like the 5.0 lever when using the steel drum, as it is heavy and the band needs the additional clamp load. 15 springs in the front clutch .015"/friction clearance. use a solid snap ring istead of the wave style. They are selective. It'll need a .065" or .080". With 5 frictions it'll be right about .070". Set the direct drum to .025". If using the aluminum drum, use steel seal rings on the reaction shaft support. Not Teflon as they will wear the drum. All other sealing rings can be Teflon. If the KD servo is the 5/8" style pin. Remove the small snap ring to remove the spring and discard. Then shim the rod with (2) #3 brass thrust washer (get 2 extra input/output shaft thrust washers). The servo pin will now be solid. Either 3 or 4 pin planets will work. The Ultimate Sprage is stonger. Allthough with a good drum if the low roller clutch (sprag) fails it won't explode. Use good quality frictions. High end Borg Warner, Raybestos, or Alto. The A&A drums use 5 of the thinner .063" frictions (same as the direct drum). Do not use a Kevlar band with the aluminum drum. I've been using solid cast red lined KD bands. But they are pretty pricey when you add the core price. You might see if Rick at A&A could recomend a good quality flex band instead. I'm assuming your valve body is a Turbo Action which is fine. The Amazon 46 RH pans are awesome and cheap. But they require a thick 1.5" filter spacer. Make sure you use a Daycron fiter, not the screen mesh. If the rear band is in good shape reuse it. Mods we can get into: Open up the reaction shaft support oil feed with a cut off wheel, drill the rear of the case for .060" oiling hole, block and relocate the vent.
Doug