Acceptable engine temp

[69hemibeep]

I read years ago and it may have been a chevy service manual but it will give you an idea that (normal) operating range of a factory gauge is 195-220. Climate, hills and A/C will make them run warmer.

 

[TorRed]

Also in Florida here, so I'll have the stock fan shroud, wetter water, cooler running water pump, still trying to figure out radiators but would like stay with a stock appearing 22" (feel free to recommend based on your experiences), and has a 50 year old flex fan. should I go back to a stock fan with fan clutch? I'll also be adding Classic Air which it doesn't have now.

Thanks,
Jim

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Also in Florida here, so I'll have the stock fan shroud, wetter water, cooler running water pump, still trying to figure out radiators but would like stay with a stock appearing 22" (feel free to recommend based on your experiences), and has a 50 year old flex fan. should I go back to a stock fan with fan clutch? I'll also be adding Classic Air which it doesn't have now.

Thanks,
Jim

My 22 uses factory 7 blade no clutch and shroud and still doing good but I had shop add another row (3 ) up from 2

 

[Bleep Bleep]

If you're concerned, Perhaps get the radiator boiled out and rodded, to restore it to original efficiency. A common job we had back in the garage, once done, vehicle back to operating as usual. If not already equipped, I'd recommend a shroud.

Unfortunately stock rad was swapped out for aftermarket - highly original car. Is that the stock shroud can you tell?

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Yes it should. My recommendation is 13# for cap. Little less pressure is good for the hoses.

Confirmed 16# now.

 

[oldbee]

IMHO, not original, doesn’t look quite deep enough.

 

[TorRed]

My 22 uses factory 7 blade no clutch and shroud and still doing good but I had shop add another row (3 ) up from 2

Did you have the 3rd row added recently? If so, may I ask what you paid? I'd love to keep the original top & bottom tanks as long as it will cool sufficiently without going aftermarket like Glen Ray Radiators or U.S. Radiators which is what I'm looking at now. Thx

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Did you have the 3rd row added recently? If so, may I ask what you paid? I'd love to keep the original top & bottom tanks as long as it will cool sufficiently without going aftermarket like Glen Ray Radiators or U.S. Radiators which is what I'm looking at now. Thx

Was many years ago but did reuse my tanks at local shop here

 

[WileE]

Also in Florida here, so I'll have the stock fan shroud, wetter water, cooler running water pump, still trying to figure out radiators but would like stay with a stock appearing 22" (feel free to recommend based on your experiences), and has a 50 year old flex fan. should I go back to a stock fan with fan clutch? I'll also be adding Classic Air which it doesn't have now.

Glen-ray for radiator, throw out the flex fan, use factory fan & clutch.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Unfortunately stock rad was swapped out for aftermarket - highly original car. Is that the stock shroud can you tell?

View attachment 1745708

Not the stock fan or shroud. It is better than none but IMO a thermo clutch 7 blade fan would be an improvement even with that shroud.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

IMHO, not original, doesn’t look quite deep enough.

Thanks. Will go through Glen Ray at some point. Knowing this helps.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

Not the stock fan or shroud. It is better than none but IMO a thermo clutch 7 blade fan would be an improvement even with that shroud.

Thanks for confirming. Have intentions to get Glen-ray to build one. Ultimately that’s the longer term solution I believe. Appreciate you weighing in.

 

[GTXDAN]

Unfortunately stock rad was swapped out for aftermarket - highly original car. Is that the stock shroud can you tell?

View attachment 1745708

That looks like original fan and shroud to me. Looks like my 70 GTX 440. That is a factory 7 blade fan without a clutch just like mine.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

That looks like original fan and shroud to me. Looks like my 70 GTX 440. That is a factory 7 blade fan without a clutch just like mine.

First roadrunner and was a little surprised the shroud was so shallow?Im sure there is one but not sure of the engineering reasoning?

I run 180 or 190 stats in every car. They run just above them, but hot day in traffic they may go to 220. Still don't puke...

I think the 16# cap is ok and will replace the thermostat for 180 just so I’m more aware how hot I should expect to run.

A new car to me. Motor professionally rebuilt 10 years ago 60 over and post rebuild, but before the aftermarket rad, had reportedly a history of overheating. You can correct my thinking but if necessary I’d sacrifice just a wee performance for longevity at this point.

Sensable?

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

First roadrunner and was a little surprised the shroud was so shallow?Im sure there is one but not sure of the engineering reasoning?



I think the 16# cap is ok and will replace the thermostat for 180 just so I’m more aware how hot I should expect to run.

A new car to me. Motor professionally rebuilt 10 years ago 60 over and post rebuild, but before the aftermarket rad, had reportedly a history of overheating. You can correct my thinking but if necessary I’d sacrifice just a wee performance for longevity at this point.

Sensable?

When we did my motor as mentioned it was 30 over and 11.5 cr prior a stock motor and 2 core was great but the new configuration caused temp rise hence the factory rad 2 row getting recored to 3 and back to 180 temps. Food for thought

 

[HemiLane]

I have a 60 over 413 in AZ and in temps of 110 it will cruise at 200-205, might climb as high as 215-220 in stop and go traffic, no issues. All my BB Mopars liked to run hot in AZ. I have a 22" 2 row ECP (1 1/8" tubes) radiator, shroud, 7-blade fan & clutch, 185 t-stat, aftermarket a/c, hi-flow water pump. I run distilled water and water wetter.

 

[Kern Dog]

I certainly wouldn't be complaining about 205! Water boils at 212 with no pressure cap.

And every pound of pressure raises the boiling point 3°. A 15# cap raises that 212° to 257° at sea level. The pressure cap, altitude, and coolant mix adjusts those temps but not by much.

I don't like over 210-215 F. Sort of a warning at those temps, and I will pull over and stop if it get to 230 F.

I see these posts frequently and sort of shake my head....
You may not realize that the factory gauges were not necessarily built with a NASA level of accuracy.
Even so, look at the following chart:

For an example, even if you only have 1/3 of the coolant with anti-freeze and are using a 16 psi radiator cap, you won't see boiling until 260 degrees.
I read from dudes getting scared at 220 degrees. PFFftttt !
Relax...there are far bigger things to worry about.

 

[Bleep Bleep]

For an example, even if you only have 1/3 of the coolant with anti-freeze and are using a 16 psi radiator cap, you won't see boiling until 260 degrees.

Good data. Thank you!

 

[toolmanmike]

I see these posts frequently and sort of shake my head....
You may not realize that the factory gauges were not necessarily built with a NASA level of accuracy.
Even so, look at the following chart:

View attachment 1745968

For an example, even if you only have 1/3 of the coolant with anti-freeze and are using a 16 psi radiator cap, you won't see boiling until 260 degrees.
I read from dudes getting scared at 220 degrees. PFFftttt !
Relax...there are far bigger things to worry about.

"I saw 200 on my Factory gauge. I'm overheating!" If you aren't puking coolant out all over the street, you're not overheating.

 

[Doorkicker]

I see these posts frequently and sort of shake my head....
You may not realize that the factory gauges were not necessarily built with a NASA level of accuracy.
Even so, look at the following chart:

View attachment 1745968

For an example, even if you only have 1/3 of the coolant with anti-freeze and are using a 16 psi radiator cap, you won't see boiling until 260 degrees.
I read from dudes getting scared at 220 degrees. PFFftttt !
Relax...there are far bigger things to worry about.

I do find these temp conversations - which are very common - a touch interesting. In this post and others, folks keep referring to the boiling point as the measure of "overheating". That implies once it boils over, you've overheated despite the actual temperature (i.e., related to pressure, fluid types and mix, etc.). This seems a bit counterintuitive.

The underlying concern / question that I believe is at the heart of these conversations is "at what temperature does engine damage occur?" If you're just worried about spilling water, then just run #30 cap. But for me and I believe others, are primarily concerned with damage which is based on a number of conditions that don't necessarily include boiling point (for example, an engine that doesn't run coolant boiling point is moot). And the secondary concern is with performance... hot coolant can be a power killer in iron-block engines.

Finally, to state the obvious... when pressure is used to raise the boiling point, the water will... you know... boil once the pressure is released. At that point the liquid converts to gas (steam). So, while the radiator is boiling over like a fountain, not flowing or being cooled, the temp of the engine is increasing exponentially which can result in damage. I was at a car show a few months ago and the owner of a car "overheating" with water boiling over was laughing it off... once things settled down, he tried to start it only to discover the engine was lockup solid... now it's a 383 boat anchor.

What temp you want to run at is what you want... I think some people will prefer 180 and see 200 as hot, while others say 220 is normal and hot isn't until 240 or more. The questions that should be considered are: 1) what temp does the engine run/perform the best and 2) what temp do you believe engine damage can occur.