Anybody tried this type of remote battery disconnect?

[David Womby]

I think I'll try this but am wondering if 500A instantaneous is enough for a 360 with its original Mopar starter.

Thanks for any thoughts.



David

 

[toolmanmike]

I think I'll try this but am wondering if 500A instantaneous is enough for a 360 with its original Mopar starter.

Thanks for any thoughts.



David

That may be pushing it. I see it goes on the ground side which might be a savior.

 

[dodgeboy440]

I think I'll try this but am wondering if 500A instantaneous is enough for a 360 with its original Mopar starter.

Thanks for any thoughts.



David

PS

I use the Wireless Charger Method…..

 

[Nxcoupe]

I think I'll try this but am wondering if 500A instantaneous is enough for a 360 with its original Mopar starter.

Thanks for any thoughts.



David

If your starter draws over 200A on start up, you have a problem in the starter. A bad cable will lower amp draw, a bad connection will lower amp draw, a bad ground will lower amp draw, but an internal short bypassing electromagnetic coils or to ground, will raise amperage draw. It seems like 500a would be sufficient for anything it could require.

 

[David Womby]

PS

I use the Wireless Charger Method…..

View attachment 1794627

Got to get me a set of those!

 

[David Womby]

That may be pushing it. I see it goes on the ground side which might be a savior.

Thanks.

 

[David Womby]

If your starter draws over 200A on start up, you have a problem in the starter. A bad cable will lower amp draw, a bad connection will lower amp draw, a bad ground will lower amp draw, but an internal short bypassing electromagnetic coils or to ground, will raise amperage draw. It seems like 500a would be sufficient for anything it could require.

Thanks. I've not measured amps on startup. I'll try to get that reading.

David

 

[gkent]

Ditch the original starter for a mini-starter and the draw will be much lower.

 

[David Womby]

Ditch the original starter for a mini-starter and the draw will be much lower.

I might in due course. I did that on my last car.

 

[twecomm]

Current, or amps would be same if measured in battery positive (+) lead or ground (-) lead.

 

[David Womby]

Current, or amps would be same if measured in battery positive (+) lead or ground (-) lead.

Thanks but I think I need to get a clamp type meter to read either

 

[gkent]

If all you're concerned about is whether that unit will handle your starter, I don't think you have anything to wory about. I think there are much weaker links in the system that would blow first - probably the ground to the chassis.

 

[Nxcoupe]

Thanks but I think I need to get a clamp type meter to read either

Yes, that is the smart way to do it.

 

[65CopCar]

If your starter draws over 200A on start up, you have a problem in the starter. A bad cable will lower amp draw, a bad connection will lower amp draw, a bad ground will lower amp draw, but an internal short bypassing electromagnetic coils or to ground, will raise amperage draw. It seems like 500a would be sufficient for anything it could require.

But instantaneous inrush will be much higher than 200 amps. Much higher........ You are smacking a low impedance against as stiff 12 volt source and until you get get counter-emf the amps are very high. But it only lasts for milliseconds. But can't be ignored when using electronics.

 

[HEMIB]

The unit needs power to operate probably in the milliamp range would help to flatten battery over time

 

[65CopCar]

A bad cable will lower amp draw, a bad connection will lower amp draw, a bad ground will lower amp draw,

Will it? The answer is complicated. A bad cable or (lets just call it a bad connection) will be a voltage drop. So lower voltage available at the starter. The bad connection dissipates the voltage drop as heat. A starter motor is a torque matching device - it will try to spin the motor at the speed it is commanded to regardless of how many amps it takes to do so. Speed in a DC motor is dependent on input voltage (minus IR losses) and field strength. Spinning a car engine is considered a constant torque application. Torque in a DC motor = Constant * Field Strength * Armature Amps (main cable amps). That means you have less volts (causes lower motor rpm) to basically provide the same torque but amps theoretically stay the same because its trying to maintain commanded speed (minus IR losses which can be significant and continue to increase as the starter is spinning and heating up). But a starter (even the newer designs as far as I know) have series fields. Series fields mean that as armature amps go up field strength increases slowing the motor down but also giving the motor more torque so amps go down until the circuit equalizes and vice versa. Eventually you run out of juice to do anything and my dissertation falls apart, but this is what is happening. That is why low battery voltage causes slow cranking.

I was bored. LOL!

 

[Runner 68]

F@ck the remote. Old school manual disconnect. Turn the key, pull it, put it in your pocket and be done with it.
A hard key doesn't need to have the batteries replaced.

 

[gkent]

It’s hard to make out … what’s the breaker for and what is the positive connected to up on the hump?

 

[David Womby]

The unit needs power to operate probably in the milliamp range would help to flatten battery over time

True. Vendor states 1mA as standby current draw and, yes, that will flatten the battery eventually if the car isn't used regularly. However, when I put the car away for long storage (eg. over a month), I disconnect the -ve battery cable anyway. With this device, I'll have to remove it from the battery -ve terminal completely but that's no more work than I do now.

David

 

[David Womby]

F@ck the remote. Old school manual disconnect. Turn the key, pull it, put it in your pocket and be done with it.
A hard key doesn't need to have the batteries replaced.

View attachment 1794924

That's a nice, neat setup but I want to be able to immobilize the car and the switch, like yours, would need to be somewhere easily accessible behind a locked panel. Yours in the trunk does that.

My battery is in the engine compartment. I could put a switch in there but, of course, I'd have to open and close the hood to access it. I am still considering that option but the remote control idea has a lot of appeal if it can take the peak amps when the starter is fired up.

David