Thank you definately doing the firm feel 3.
What about fiberglass fenders and hood? Do you guys think it's worth it?
yes if your racing/auto-crossing it,
the extra weight off the nose,
would help weight distribution & weight transfer, less body roll,
help shock functions/wear & help braking functions/wear for sure also...
I'd also suggest moving the battery to the passenger side rear of the truck
& a safety cut off switch too,
it will help move weight to the rear also,
Every pound you take off the front & put in the rear,
is like doubling the weight added to the rear, in weight distribution...
Every pound you remove off the frontend also,
is like adding 1/2 pound in weight distribution to the rear also,
especially on these front heavy/front weight biased cars...
I did a Unisteer Power Rack & Pinion {Omni style IIRC} on my 68 RR,
it was a bolt in, just cutting & drilling to the column shaft,
it was $1000 + shipping, a few years ago from Year one...
I won't really recommend it thou...
It works great,
BUT needs the bump-steer corrected slightly too,
but there are kits out there, that will help to fix that issue too & IMHFO,
it handles/steers & feels by far/way better than the OEM suspension & steering stuff, ever did,
even with the bigger 1-3/8" sway bar up front & the 1" sway bar in the rear
{especially since it/they never had a sway bar in the rear} along with the Edelbrock EIS gas shocks etc....
With no real problems so far, other than header selection is very limited,
only the TTI 383178c would/will fit, the pan clearances limited also {I'm making custom headers}
also which oil pan you could use too, but with a stock type oil-pan, no issues...
I have a Milodon 7" x 7 qt. B-Body oil-pan, that looks like it will work fine, when I get around to it anyway...
too many other things going on right now
good luck, with your
