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anyone want a 505 stroker before i throw it in the bin

Tex,
Got the car running pretty good now:
the unstable fuel pressure was the diaphragm was not put back in properly.
the engine run on was too high idle and is now fixed.

i still have this pesky oil leak at back of engine, so in about a month i am pulling th engine back out and fixing the leak and going to repaint the engine bay.
also got damon at diamondback engines doing me a package including:

indy max wedge heads, indy 440-25 intake, custom grind solid cam, and some custom diamondback 625 carbs.

then i am going to trailer the car 10 hour drive to get it dyno tuned.

so should go well after this.
 
I'm not a camshaft expert but this is my $0.02 cents for what it's worth... I think that the camshaft duration you have could be the problem to many of you issues & when the valve open &/or closes, the 104*/108* even on a big stroker engine isn't really intended for any type of daily driver type street use {In my opinion anyway}, it's more of a track or dyno only type cam, for bracket racing or dyno pulls maybe, with high stall converter & racing fuel/gas, not on pump gas, with that specific cam anyway, where you are intended to be at full throttle allot of the time... the lift doesn't really hurt you at all, let that big boy breath, you probably could go with even more lift, not hurt you, that's only if you had enough valve to piston or guide clearances or no valve spring bind etc.... IMHFO but that 300*/305* advert. 250*/255* @ 0.050 duration & when it comes in will effect drivability especially on crappy fuel... I would suggest for the street getting something like 270*-280*'s advert. duration, centerline or overlap like in ranges of 112* or more, it won't make as much raw power, it will bleed off some compression, but it will have power from maybe 1500rpm range 6200-6500rpm range {instead of your current cams 3000rpm-6800rpm} more Rpm range possibly depending on valve-springs &/or lifter style, fuel delivery etc., which equates to about something like a 214*int./222*exh. or so ballpark @ 0.050 lift, very street-able usable power.... It works well for me, I'm not going to recommend ant specific camshaft thou, I will leave that to the camshaft experts, talk to Crane, Lunati, Isky, Earson cams maybe even Comp cams {horrible tech lately}nor even Hughes {I'm not a big fan of either thou} or call a custom camshaft grinder & pick their brains... Or whom ever you prefer... After all they are supposedly the CAMSHAFT EXPERTS, but you must be 100% honest of what you expect out of the camshaft, then tell them how it will actually be used & not some HP fantasy of a Top Fueler on the street, that you will never be able to get tuned properly, for how you want to use it or on pump gas.... Sorry if I offended anyone, that's not my intentions... the Eddy Carbs I will leave to Meeps to help you out on that one, I've all but completely given up on them now.... I also prefer a roller camshaft too, but that's just a personal preference, there are plenty good non-roller cams out there... But never skimp on valve-train stuff or cylinder heads, that moto has served me well...

- - - Updated - - -

ship it over here to Sonora Ca. I'll make it run

- - - Updated - - -

Tex,
Got the car running pretty good now:
the unstable fuel pressure was the diaphragm was not put back in properly.
the engine run on was too high idle and is now fixed.

i still have this pesky oil leak at back of engine, so in about a month i am pulling th engine back out and fixing the leak and going to repaint the engine bay.
also got damon at diamondback engines doing me a package including:

indy max wedge heads, indy 440-25 intake, custom grind solid cam, and some custom diamondback 625 carbs.

then i am going to trailer the car 10 hour drive to get it dyno tuned.

so should go well after this.

Sorry I stopped reading after the 2nd page or so & I didn't notice the date of the original post either... Thought this was something new... I didn't see you changed a bunch of stuff already... only after I had already posted my lengthy post... oh well, you can still send it too me before hucken' her in the garbage bin, good luck with your dyno tune
 
Tex,
Got the car running pretty good now:
the unstable fuel pressure was the diaphragm was not put back in properly.
the engine run on was too high idle and is now fixed.

i still have this pesky oil leak at back of engine, so in about a month i am pulling th engine back out and fixing the leak and going to repaint the engine bay.
also got damon at diamondback engines doing me a package including:

indy max wedge heads, indy 440-25 intake, custom grind solid cam, and some custom diamondback 625 carbs.

then i am going to trailer the car 10 hour drive to get it dyno tuned.

so should go well after this.

glad to hear Benno . From what I have seen you may want Diamondback to put a blow off valve or 2 in the Indy manifold , I have seen a few pics of these semi crossram manifolds exploding . DVW on here I think had one go up .
Cam well if you are honest to Damon you will get what you want . For high performance street with power brakes I would want 110 intake minimum , I run 108 centrelines but have to run a vacuum pump for the power brakes . I drag race regularly , though this is a true daily driver , and want the peakier style cam plus the 108 will help bleed off low speed cylinder pressure good with higher compression motors.
good luck and keep us informed

Tex
 
glad to hear Benno . From what I have seen you may want Diamondback to put a blow off valve or 2 in the Indy manifold , I have seen a few pics of these semi crossram manifolds exploding . DVW on here I think had one go up .
Cam well if you are honest to Damon you will get what you want . For high performance street with power brakes I would want 110 intake minimum , I run 108 centrelines but have to run a vacuum pump for the power brakes . I drag race regularly , though this is a true daily driver , and want the peakier style cam plus the 108 will help bleed off low speed cylinder pressure good with higher compression motors.
good luck and keep us informed

Tex

thanks mate, yeh I have been completely honest with damon and letting him pick what he thinks will work best with everything I have, I am not fussed about the cam for the power brakes as I am running a hydraboost system which runs off the power steering

- - - Updated - - -

I'm not a camshaft expert but this is my $0.02 cents for what it's worth... I think that the camshaft duration you have could be the problem to many of you issues & when the valve open &/or closes, the 104*/108* even on a big stroker engine isn't really intended for any type of daily driver type street use {In my opinion anyway}, it's more of a track or dyno only type cam, for bracket racing or dyno pulls maybe, with high stall converter & racing fuel/gas, not on pump gas, with that specific cam anyway, where you are intended to be at full throttle allot of the time... the lift doesn't really hurt you at all, let that big boy breath, you probably could go with even more lift, not hurt you, that's only if you had enough valve to piston or guide clearances or no valve spring bind etc.... IMHFO but that 300*/305* advert. 250*/255* @ 0.050 duration & when it comes in will effect drivability especially on crappy fuel... I would suggest for the street getting something like 270*-280*'s advert. duration, centerline or overlap like in ranges of 112* or more, it won't make as much raw power, it will bleed off some compression, but it will have power from maybe 1500rpm range 6200-6500rpm range {instead of your current cams 3000rpm-6800rpm} more Rpm range possibly depending on valve-springs &/or lifter style, fuel delivery etc., which equates to about something like a 214*int./222*exh. or so ballpark @ 0.050 lift, very street-able usable power.... It works well for me, I'm not going to recommend ant specific camshaft thou, I will leave that to the camshaft experts, talk to Crane, Lunati, Isky, Earson cams maybe even Comp cams {horrible tech lately}nor even Hughes {I'm not a big fan of either thou} or call a custom camshaft grinder & pick their brains... Or whom ever you prefer... After all they are supposedly the CAMSHAFT EXPERTS, but you must be 100% honest of what you expect out of the camshaft, then tell them how it will actually be used & not some HP fantasy of a Top Fueler on the street, that you will never be able to get tuned properly, for how you want to use it or on pump gas.... Sorry if I offended anyone, that's not my intentions... the Eddy Carbs I will leave to Meeps to help you out on that one, I've all but completely given up on them now.... I also prefer a roller camshaft too, but that's just a personal preference, there are plenty good non-roller cams out there... But never skimp on valve-train stuff or cylinder heads, that moto has served me well...

- - - Updated - - -

ship it over here to Sonora Ca. I'll make it run

- - - Updated - - -



Sorry I stopped reading after the 2nd page or so & I didn't notice the date of the original post either... Thought this was something new... I didn't see you changed a bunch of stuff already... only after I had already posted my lengthy post... oh well, you can still send it too me before hucken' her in the garbage bin, good luck with your dyno tune

thanks Bud, I totally agree with you, I was given bad advice from the beginning, hopefully this new package should run sweet as everything will be matched together then all dynode properly
 
Tex,
Got the car running pretty good now:
the unstable fuel pressure was the diaphragm was not put back in properly.
the engine run on was too high idle and is now fixed.

i still have this pesky oil leak at back of engine, so in about a month i am pulling th engine back out and fixing the leak and going to repaint the engine bay.
also got damon at diamondback engines doing me a package including:

indy max wedge heads, indy 440-25 intake, custom grind solid cam, and some custom diamondback 625 carbs.

then i am going to trailer the car 10 hour drive to get it dyno tuned.

so should go well after this.

Great choice.
 
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