Well at least he had spark.
Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...
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I agree but we were like WTF was that!!!!
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Remember, I was not an office guy. I was a Carpenter. The entire "4 column table" is absolutely foreign to me.KD - just to cover all bases in a one shot review, would you care to make a 4 column table with both cars in the far right columns and the far left column for components and date installed so we know how new they are, then for each row list each component so you can see at a glance each component that is the same or new for each car and which components are not. I know this is in your head and you've tried everything, but maybe listing it all out in one table will present an ah-ha moment.
Now sans table - going off the wire jiggle method and possible ECU reliance on voltage, if your battery is already low or problematic, then any loose connections or increased resistance will make things much worse. Have you ever swapped batteries from Jigsaw to Ginger? Remember that Ginger's battery is in the trunk and Jigsaw's is under hood, correct? Another thing that comes to mind - in the table list you should also include all electronic accessories - for example, does Ginger have A/C and Jigsaw does not? Does Ginger have a radio and Jigsaw does not? I had an issue one time in my 67 in high school where I had a radio wiring issue causing a parasitic draw. My buddy helped me figure it out when we were installing a car alarm. Another time on that same car, one of my door jam switches that turns on the interior lighting when you open the door was sticky.
Do the table - even if you think it's a waste of time. You're retired anyway. DO IT!
Easy brother. Across the top put things used and side the cars and check each item per car used and see a pattern or how many have had replacement parts
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Oh yeah, back in May I pulled the plugs and cleaned them with DeOxit, Then packed them with dielectric grease.
Well dang it Greg, you stay up most of the night posting and trying to keep up with 'all' of it isn't exactly easy. Just because you don't sleep much doesn't mean we don't. Not 'everyone' is 'like' you are!!!
I'm usually up until 2:00 AM Pacific time. It really is my nature to stay up late. The years in construction made it a struggle to get to sleep before 10:00.
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Maybe you didn't work hard enough to make you tired!!?? LOL
BeepBeepRR
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Thats why you just buy a new one.. Instead of trying to fix something that has either worked for years and has finally met its fate or its a new Chinesium knockoff that has a limited time any way. Im not sure what that stuff is that they seal those things in but its like tar. As far as capacitors you could probably read the ohms or look for a expanded capacitor. And for all the other stuff on the board who knows I'm certainly no expert but was just talking crap.
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The troubleshooting notebook has nothing in it to test the ECMs and I've had no luck finding information elsewhere.
Despite the admonition from ignorant critics, I've saved parts that failed so that I can test them later. This has worked to my advantage because some parts that were thought to be the problem actually worked fine when tested later.
Hey...I don't live in a 200 square foot New York apartment...I have plenty of room to store spare parts.
I've considered the possibility that a component that suddenly stopped working may have done so due to heat or a poor connection. Testing that component on another vehicle is a cheap and easy way to find out if it is work saving.
Oh, and the reason that I have saved the ECMs that are absolutely known to be dead? I've seen some guys gut the insides out and mount a GM HEI module inside. This gets you electronic ignition that is reliable and looks similar to what you already had.
I've thought about this option:
Despite the admonition from ignorant critics, I've saved parts that failed so that I can test them later. This has worked to my advantage because some parts that were thought to be the problem actually worked fine when tested later.
Hey...I don't live in a 200 square foot New York apartment...I have plenty of room to store spare parts.
I've considered the possibility that a component that suddenly stopped working may have done so due to heat or a poor connection. Testing that component on another vehicle is a cheap and easy way to find out if it is work saving.
Oh, and the reason that I have saved the ECMs that are absolutely known to be dead? I've seen some guys gut the insides out and mount a GM HEI module inside. This gets you electronic ignition that is reliable and looks similar to what you already had.
I've thought about this option:
We have a fellow here on the site that is an expert at ignition especially the OEM stuff we are talking about. I hope Hoppy is following along and laughing his *** off. 
how do you test for a failed pickup in the distributor?
I almost used one of those in my build, but I've read a few reports of these failing. Could be faulty install, but I didn't want to spend that $ and take a chance, so went with Firecore instead and kept the Mopar Chrome box ECU.
| Component | Date Installed | Jigsaw mix and match Charger | Ginger Red Charger |
| Spark Plugs | |||
| Spark Plug Wires | |||
| Distributor | |||
| Distributor Cap | |||
| Battery (you get the idea) |
The FBBO top bar here even has an insert table function (to the right of the " )...you learned something!
Maybe Ray has a tester for your application?
FOR SALE - Mopar factory electronic ignition testers P/N 1-3500 NOS?
BeepBeepRR
Well-Known Member
Question in all seriousness. Is it possible that it fails when heated up and then doesn't fail when its cool? I know this is not in the same wheel house but I had a TV that would work great for 2 hours or so then just shut off. Turns out the solder connections on the board were cracked. I took the board out and stuffed it into my oven at 400 degrees for like 5 or 6 minutes long enough to reflow the connections. The TV worked flawless for 3 years up until I sold it to my brother. As per reading all over the web what I got was the new solder contains no lead and thats why solder joints are prone to cracking. Something about China cant Export Lead Soldered parts. Or something to that effect.
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Thank you, Dwayne.
I may have it figured out for now.
As always, my day starts much later than you guys. I am still online when east coast guys wake up.
I got out here and started to tinker.
* Fully charged battery, ether down the throat, Mopar Performance.08
ohm coil, orange ECM that worked in Jigsaw. No spark.
* Change back to previously used Accel coil. No spark.
* Mocked up spare new ECM plug and harness. Fire!!
From this:
To this:
I didn’t cut anything. I just disconnected the wire to coil positive and the blue/yellow to the ballast resistor.
It is a bit of a rat’s nest but it worked for a test.
The orange box of doom. You can see I “jumpered” the wires to the right side of the ballast resistor. Oddly, the diagram I got from Mopar Performance showed the following:
Their depiction of the starter relay doesn’t match mine.
They show the blue/yellow wire going to the relay.
I may have it figured out for now.
As always, my day starts much later than you guys. I am still online when east coast guys wake up.
I got out here and started to tinker.
* Fully charged battery, ether down the throat, Mopar Performance.08
ohm coil, orange ECM that worked in Jigsaw. No spark.
* Change back to previously used Accel coil. No spark.
* Mocked up spare new ECM plug and harness. Fire!!
From this:
To this:
I didn’t cut anything. I just disconnected the wire to coil positive and the blue/yellow to the ballast resistor.
It is a bit of a rat’s nest but it worked for a test.
The orange box of doom. You can see I “jumpered” the wires to the right side of the ballast resistor. Oddly, the diagram I got from Mopar Performance showed the following:
Their depiction of the starter relay doesn’t match mine.
They show the blue/yellow wire going to the relay.
Last edited:
makes sense. Faulty contacts are a prime suspect. Please report back on this after a week and then a month to confirm it's all still good. Now for an early read, swap in that dirty harness into jigsaw and see if it starts or not.
More problems than just cracking.
The lead (PB) free solder contains tin (Sn) and "whiskers" are prone to grow on the surface, but the "whiskers" (some say dendrites) can grow larger and cause an electrical short.
Literally, there are volumes published every year to better understand the formation of these "whiskers" and how to control or mitigate it.
The U.S. and Europe aren't permitting toxic stuff to be imported.
_____________________
Restriction of Hazardous Substances
September 21, 2024
Understanding RoHS (Restriction of Hazardous Substances) Compliance: A Comprehensive Guide
Written by: Kenny Ho
What does RoHS mean?
RoHS is an acronym for "Restriction of Hazardous Substances." It is a directive in the European Union that regulates the use of certain hazardous substances in electrical and electronic equipment (EEE). RoHS aims to reduce the environmental and health risks associated with the manufacturing, use, and disposal of electronic products by limiting the presence of particular harmful substances in these products. Its primary objective is to promote the production of electronic equipment that is safer and more environmentally friendly.
RoHS Explained: A Comprehensive Guide to Hazardous Substance Restrictions
_______________________
Also:
RoHS Compliance: A Brief Overview
The RoHS directive, formally known as Directive 2011/65/EU, originated in the European Union but has had a global impact on the electronics industry. Its primary objective is to restrict the use of specific hazardous substances in electronic and electrical equipment. These substances include:- Lead (Pb)
- Mercury (Hg)
- Cadmium (Cd)
- Polybrominated biphenyls (PBB)
- Hexavalent chromium (Cr6+)
- Polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDE)
RoHS Compliance and Lead-Free Soldering Techniques - Nova Engineering.
There you go
Goo? Heresy I say! There are all types of potting compounds used in the electronics industry. The type used depends on application of course.
In general, we can say the potting compound flows into the voids and provides an environmental seal. Also, the potting compound helps protect the components from mechanical shock and vibration.
If anyone wants to talk about printed wiring boards, then look up conformal coatings. A whole other world of considerations.
In general, we can say the potting compound flows into the voids and provides an environmental seal. Also, the potting compound helps protect the components from mechanical shock and vibration.
If anyone wants to talk about printed wiring boards, then look up conformal coatings. A whole other world of considerations.
Or the fellow who bought might offer a testing service
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