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B Body 65-65 Frame Connectors

Judge for yourself in the next to last pic. That is showing the rear footwell area, so it will sort of be obscured by the front seat.
 
Having only one eye, puts things a little out of perspective for me, so that's why I ask. At home it's no biggie, I can "SEE" it in the flesh, pics are harder for me to judge. Depth perception is not the same as with vision in both eyes.
 
I would trade both of my eyes for one good one. I find that I even put my glasses on to answer the phone......
 
The rise is about 5/8", which should not be a major problem, as far as I can see. The pictures depict it as higher into the passenger floor than it really is, I think, due to the color change. And, my floor board in front will be modified significantly, due to the 2005 Chrysler 300 bucket seats in the front. I have already modified the floor on the drivers side, we'll see how that goes when I do the same on the passenger side. My primary goal at this time, is to get the bottom cleaned up, painted and get the brake lines and fuel lines set up.

The one thing I do like is, the frame connectors do not hang down under the car at all. It may not be everyone's cup of tea, the rise in the rear floor, but I personally don't see a lot of passengers in the rear seat anyway.....! If it bothered a builder, one could easily raise the rear floor 5/8" [a false floor i.e.] and you'd never know it. That might be something I would even consider...mmmm
 
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Don't sweat the small stuff, thats why I ask questions.

I wouldn't think that 5/8 is alot to worry about. I dig the way you installed the frame connectors, really cool.
 
Hey B392, Looks great and will really stiffen up the car. What set up are you using for the rear ? A cal-trac or SS spring? I can't wait to see the rest of this ride, i do like 65's. Good luck moving forward,keep up posted.
 
Cal Trac Type

Thanks DanTrap

I've kicked this around for awhile and I like the look and function of the "Cal Trac" type set up.

http://www.hotrodsandhemis.com/Traction.html

I just purchased a set of polished stainless Upper A arms from Just Suspension and they look great. I'm thinkin'...and that has always gotten me in trouble, that thinkin' part, if a guy were to build the Cal Trac setup, with a polished stainless link, it would look great, be fairly inexpensive to build, yet practical.

This Dodge will be street driven, SOUND like it belongs on a drag strip, and get 10MPG...even if OB puts us all in mini scions...this one will be driven..!
 
Love the idea of stainless, can't go wrong with that.
 
Stainless would be a Kingpin setup. I reviewed the home build info and it appears on the money in the details. I would still use Calverts split mono leaf and the adjustable shocks. I ran into a write up on the Old-hippys mopar web site about using the fiberglass vette leaf springs with a cal-trac setup in stead of the split mono leaf, they say it works the best. I do know the Calvert mono leafs work good on my b-body. As for the A-arms they look good in SS, i would have a pair but i already use the magnum force units. Are you going to run a Dana or 8 3/4 ?
 
I'm using an 8 3/4.
 
Rear

I've cleaned the 8 3/4 housing down to metal, repainted it black. The third member is a 3.55 Sure Grip, the cone type by Borg Warner "spin resistant". The housing, a '489' with the 1 7/8" pinion. The third member is a darker gray color, using nyloc nuts. Looks cool!

I would probably have gone to the Dana Sure Grip, but I got this one rebuilt by a friend, swappin' Mopar stuff. I had a garage full of wedge stuff, several set of heads, a '68HiPo 440 block, a 9 1/4" rear, an old 518 auto etc. I was just glad to get most of it out of the shop, too heavy to sell to anyone, and we're over a hundred miles from PDX...most of those guys wouldn't drive across town to shake the hand of a conservative......:edgy:
 
That 8 3/4 would work on 95% of our applications. I used a bunch before, the 3:55s might work good for ya, but i always go a little steeper. Just my preference. Should look cool under your 65.
 
Here is a heads up for anyone looking for GRAVEL GUARD, BRAKE LINE ARMOR, and I found it's called a couple other names too. http://www.classictube.com/index.asp I ordered 30', which is more than I will actually need, for $.08 an inch, that works out to under a buck a foot. Other places I found were as much as $3 a foot, so check it out, and give them a call if you need some SPRING WRAP...etc.

Part #AG14350E if you're looking for 3/16" for steel lines. Most of you probably going stainless, but this is an option for others using steel lines.
 
I realize you can make these yourself, but when you don't have a shop (or large enough space to work) to fabricate.
Anyone now of a company or someone who pre-makes the 62-65 frame rail connects???

Thanks, Bob
 
Auto Rust Technicians, give them a call or look at their website. I got mine from them and this fit real nice. But if you want to save some coin, go get some 2x2 1/8 wall square tubing and make them yourself, real easy to do.
 
5.7
http://www.autorust.com/
Some good information on that web site. Thanks for the heads up.

TireFryin-Bob
It looks like that 2 x2 x 1/8 would even be better than the 2 x 3 x 1/8th. I installed. Less work on the floor for sure. I had to modify the floor quite a bit, primarily due to the bucket seats ('05 300) and the fact, they sit very low in the car. While they are full power with heat etc., the motors etc. take up a lot of room. I'm hoping the end result, will be worth the extra amount of work.
 
Hey Hemi guys, Thanks for the info..much appreciated!! If they aren't too expensive I'll probably go ahead and get them from Auto Rust.. I need a shop!!!!
 
Anyone aware of a company making or providing frame connectors for our '62-'65 B Bodies? I realize, they can be easily made from 1.5 x 2.5 x .120 steel, but I'm curious if anyone is making a set that conforms to the floor pan.

Thanks
Bob

:grin::grin::grin::grin: Here ya go...............
Frame Connectors for 1962 to 1965 Mopars. E-mail Paul Hamaday at this address phamadayATyahoo.com -- Delete the AT and replace it with @ to get the correct address format.
 
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