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Broke my 7UP Pop Machine today....

Got a call this morning to tell me the door fit like crap and to see if I could bring the vent frame, glass, regulator and such over to see how we could turn this AMD door from **** to Gold like it should have been to start with for the $1600 cost.
superbirdbentdoor7 005a.jpg

I think this is glass insertion # 3 on the final round after I've been in the back moving the door pillar striker plate outward by bending the factory keeper tabs to get it free. Almost came to popping some spot welds between skin and shell to get the door straight vs some "persuasive twisting".
superbirdbentdoor7 016.jpg

We had to lengthen the front vent frame attach brackets slots, on the door shell, to get the top of the vent frame to tuck in against the door seals to seal the glass, but we succeeded at that as well with some great team work!
superbirdbentdoor7 020.jpg

Last tighten and check before pulling the glass out again to bring it home, so I can redo the slider mylar and H pins.
superbirdbentdoor7 022.jpg

And with another 10 man hours we turned this POS AMD door into Gold for fit, form and function. For what they cost it should have been a paint and bolt on item! I already had 12 hours into it, so 22 man hours x $75 on top of the door cost. It's now a $3200 door and it's not even primed and painted yet! I thought this would be the easy route vs fixing or reskinning an OE shell... but DON'T DO IT !
superbirdbentdoor7 025.jpg
 
Well the first paint suppliers, PPG, camera/computer shot to get a starting base is a wash. Another supplier giving it a go tomorrow and if that don't work George goes back to old school and 40 years of mixing paint to match this 35 year old paint.
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dadsbee said:
Well the first paint suppliers, PPG, camera/computer shot to get a starting base is a wash. Another supplier giving it a go tomorrow and if that don't work George goes back to old school and 40 years of mixing paint to match this 35 year old paint.
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Good thing we don’t live near that guy. Don‘t think there would be room in that town for two of us with the same jacket.
 
That is apparently a rare skill just being able to match a spray out card to a painted car. It would look like an exact match to me and then once on the car, stand out like a sore thumb. Hope he comes up with a good match for you.
 
AR67GTX said:
That is apparently a rare skill just being able to match a spray out card to a painted car. It would look like an exact match to me and then once on the car, stand out like a sore thumb. Hope he comes up with a good match for you.
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It is not a rare skill, the problem is the toners and paint have all changed. Spies Hecker was the closest for me, and even then it was harder than you think, the original fy1 paint had a slight green/black hue to it under some lighting conditions. FY1 is also way different at night vs day so not an easy job unless you get lucky.
 
Hence the sun lamp. Takes a lot of the guess out of it.
Oh I guess I was talking about the test cards and the 3-M Sun lamp over on the random thread. Sorry
 
The ‘bird is well on it’s way to recovery, how’s your arm doing Wayne?
 
Black_Sheep said:
The ‘bird is well on it’s way to recovery, how’s your arm doing Wayne?
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About 80% I'd say. Thanks for asking. As for the Bird I was promised quarter in primer shots for Wed night and asking Thursday where they were I got back "sorry I'm in Quebec sledding". Hopefully he shot epoxy before he left and the boys are blocking it.
 
Only shot I got last week, Polyester (white) sanded out and build primer going on for blocking.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 025.jpg

Time to tackle the damaged door glass sliders.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 030.jpg

Glass slid out of the vent frame channel.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 034.jpg

The glass being jammed into the 7UP machine busted the mylar slider material and damaged the "H" pin slider.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 035.jpg

Disassembled.
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Upper H slider pin damaged. I think the new ones I got with the latest mylar slider kit are finally the correct profile. Will see tomorrow and if not it'll be modification time.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 039.jpg

Interesting that these 70 mylars have a slot for each H pin. The originals on the 69 Bee were just a round punched hole. Both cars came off of Lynch Road assembly lines only 9 months apart.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 040.jpg

Broken mylar slider, H pins and components.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 043.jpg

A quick rap with a punch to remove the plastic rivet that holds the glass regulator channel to the glass itself. I knew if I bought two new rivets I wouldn't break this one!
superbirdbentdoorpt8 053.jpg

Apart to clean everything up, needs a new gasket on the regulator channel to cushion the glass. Also "in stock".
superbirdbentdoorpt8 054.jpg
 
Vent frame channel "mylar" slider material for the door glass. Latest reproduction on the left that appears usable as sold, OE that I just removed, past reproduction that was usable with a bit of trimming and then the crap repro that was straight (not curved) that were pretty much useless for door glass but work just fine for rear flip out window hinges.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 067.jpg

Past reproduction H pin slider (useless and too thick), latest reproduction (center) has at least got them "as molded" usable and correct thickness and the OE I removed that I can't believe nobody can just make identical. It would be an easier mold to make than the incorrect reproductions!
superbirdbentdoorpt8 068.jpg

I bought the latest mylar sliders from Jamie at Mega Parts, but appears he just got them from Kevin King at Year One.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 072.jpg

Yep, it's off. I wish it wasn't, but too much handling at, and too and from, the body shop had it come loose from the glass.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 074.jpg

Door glass rear stainless edge all cleaned up.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 077.jpg

Now to get the 53 year old glass setting tape out of the channel.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 079.jpg

People wonder why restorations take so long.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 090.jpg

Still going. It took an hour and a half just to get the majority of the old tape out of the channel.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 092.jpg

Smallest dremel sanding drums JUST fit in.. a bit tight but cleaned it up nice. Took 7 drums to do the job.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 097.jpg

Confusing listing, but this is the correct "flocked" sealing strip for the door glasses rear stainless edge, where it seals against the 1/4 glass.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 099.jpg
 
The top of the original unfortuntely got torn apart when it went through the pop machine glass.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 101.jpg

Profile of the reproduction is close. Not exact but looks like it will work.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 104.jpg

Many say they "just slide the new one down the groves", but I can't see it considering there are three positioning tabs sticking up to negate that ability.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 107.jpg

Seal in position and then pressed into the bottom (outer) grove.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 109.jpg

Then the other retaining "bump" forced into place in the inner grove, a 1/4" at a time.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 110.jpg

Glass cleaner helps it go into place a bit easier.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 114.jpg

New seal in place on the stainless trim.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 121.jpg

OE on the left, reproduction on the right.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 125.jpg

Measured the glass thickness at 0.31 and the channel width at 0.42 telling me I need 50 thou or better tape to hold the trim on the glass tight. Hopefully the 0.060 I have will work. I apologize to any that I previously suggested 0.032/0.040 was the tape for this.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 127.jpg

Job for tomorrow, get the trim back in place with the setting tape and a rubber hammer.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 129.jpg
 
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Interesting that this car has oval slots in the slider mylar for the H pins. My Bee had clean punched circles top and bottom.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 133.jpg

Also a slot at the top and note the cut away on the slider material, starting just above where the glass edge curves in slightly
superbirdbentdoorpt8 134.jpg

Top cut away on the slider material to match the original. Bandsaw worked perfect for this.
superbirdbentdoorpt8 136.jpg

Can't find the hole punch and it's 5:30...
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Looks like it will be better than new and you are able to see everything and make any adjustments needed. Priceless details for anyone needing to address window problems. Thank you for letting everyone follow along.
 
Is that not the truth, people wonder why it takes so long to restore an old car right. Nice work.
 
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