Broke my 7UP Pop Machine today....

[Photon440]

Ah, it's all very nice, but let's not forget that this thread was originally all about the 7-uP pop machine!

 

[Cranky]

Wow!

 

[Cranky]

@dadsbee Had a 70 Challenger that I bought in 1980 and it was really nice. It just needed a little bit of interior work on the driver's seat but the new material didn't match so just did them all. Anyways, it too had a 'cancer bump' on the roof to quarter panel seam that was about the size of a thumb nail and was about 1/8" high in the middle. It was a non vinyl top car so it was lead and you could see where the entire seam was on both sides. Kept the car until around 97 or so and it was still the same way as when I bought it so I'm thinking it was a flaw in the lead work.....

Uhhh...
Yeah, I know what you mean. These are rarely ever "finished".

Don't think I ever had a car that was finished. Some were works in progress until someone came along and offered way more than I thought it was worth or just sold it to get something else. Did end up with 12 cars at one point with half of them running and registered but that wasn't cheap to do....so, down to 4 now with 3 running and registered and these days it's just me here. There is one 1st gen Dakota that I'm thinking of retiring though.

 

[Hey-O]

it too had a 'cancer bump' on the roof to quarter panel seam that was about the size of a thumb nail and was about 1/8" high in the middle. It was a non vinyl top car so it was lead and you could see where the entire seam was on both sides. Kept the car until around 97 or so and it was still the same way as when I bought it so I'm thinking it was a flaw in the lead work.....

Moisture can not get under lead like it can bondo. I watched them lead every fifth Avenue in the late eighties that came down the line. I made the tools out of maple to apply it. It was a true art and yes not always perfect.

 

[blue69runner]

It is the murphy's law what can go wrong will go wrong. Wish you a speedy recovery. Breaks my heart to see the damage to your car. Yes, it can be fixed but know it will cost a lot. Best wishes and glad you were not hurt really bad.

 

[dadsbee]

Yes, it can be fixed but know it will cost a lot

Thanks! Hagerty is getting the full bill on this one, including my labour hours @ $75/hr and all parts. That's what the adjuster promised me IN WRITING, we'll just see what happens when it's time for them to write the cheque!!

As my body guy keeps saying "they won't pay for this, they expect a quick scuff and paint" and I just tell him to keep going at it correctly. Appraiser hasn't even bothered to visit his shop or write up a formal "this is what we'll cover" report 4 months now post incident, so I'm just doing it right to correct it back to how it was without going overboard on "embetterment". I have a feeling that I'll get it 100% paid, just hope that feeling is correct. I'm paying them premiums on 5 cars. I have Zero deductible and this car is insured for $220,000. I think they'll come good... if not, I'm the one that f'd up!

 

[dadsbee]

0.060" glass setting tape cut to the height of the door glass.

Stainless trim put in place and masking tape placed to show total depth. Final seated position should come up about 0.060 shy of the tape.

Seated depth "gauge".

Glass stood up against a box and the setting tape put in place centered on the glass edge.

Trim set over the tape and gently hammered into place.

Excess setting tape cut off each side of the glass.

Finished trim edge install. Nice and tight on the glass.

Using a hole punch for the H pin slider hole locations on the vent frame channel 32230 mylar material.

Top end of the 32230 material.

Mylar pegged in place in the upper hole and cut off flush with the lower edge of the door glass.

 

[dadsbee]

On the lower hole I punched slots for any thermal expansion

"H" pin slider half going into place.

Filing off the sharp corners/edges of the vent frame channel, so they don't tear the 32230 mylar material.

Lower H pin in place and just entering the vent frame channel on the first test fit. Was so tight I had to use the rubber hammer to get things back apart.

Preparing for test fit #2. Making sure the H pins are fully pressed together and noting the flocking already started to peel on the mylars. Cleaned up and lubed with glass cleaner.

Into the track again for a smoother slide.

Glass out again and cleaned, then back in for test fit #3.

Together again and some silicon added to the slide channel to free things up and working nicely.

New plastic rivet and gasket to install the regulator track.

Gasket folded and going into place on the regulator track.

 

[dadsbee]

Open side of the track faces the interior of the car. Plastic rivet installs from the exterior side of the car (it's under the glass here)

Rivet in place ready to tap the retainer pin into place.

Pin almost in.

All ready for install to car door. Now I just need a car...

Rear glass edge guide channel from inside the door needs the flocked wear strip replaced. The shop ends of the rivets ground off and then the rivet punched out. Pull the old wear strip out.

Really hate when the reproduction sellers curl things up to package and ship. I've had the piece on the right out of the bag for 3 months and it still isn't flat.

Another why... if you're gonna duplicate stuff, duplicate it!

Old set over the new to cut out for the plastic wedge lock that keeps the glass from rattling when fully up.

New flocked wear strip going into place. The putty knife slipped in between the channel and the strip to push it's lock tab down and into the channels grove.

New wear strip installed. It probably can't go anywhere but it gets rivets.

 

[dadsbee]

#30 drill through the existing hole and the new wear strip.

Tube rivet going into place.

You can use a tapered punch, but I have the correct shop head former for these.

Rivet set clamped in vice for the rivet head on the inside.

Punch used to form the shop head. Supplied rivets also shorter than they should be!

New wear strip nicely in place, ready to install to the door shell.

 

[dadsbee]

It's a beautiful day. Looks like the 3rd paint match attempt is a hit with solvent based. Amazing seeing that George was still waiting for paint delivery at 3pm and he sent me the pics at 6:25.

 

[Kern Dog]

I was wondering about this project yesterday. It has bee AWHILE since I've seen any progress!

 

[dadsbee]

I was wondering about this project yesterday. It has bee AWHILE since I've seen any progress!

You've been wondering... my head is sore! Lol

 

[Richard Cranium]

I was wondering about this project yesterday. It has bee AWHILE since I've seen any progress!

Same here. Looks good Wayne! Are you going to keep it there until the snow is gone?

 

[moparedtn]

Moisture can not get under lead like it can bondo. I watched them lead every fifth Avenue in the late eighties that came down the line. I made the tools out of maple to apply it. It was a true art and yes not always perfect.

Fred the GTX had a bad case of bubbling at the lead line when the prior owner painted him; for some reason, there
was a reaction between some part of the paint process and the lead itself that happened nowhere else on the car -
and only on the drivers' side.

When I had him into the body shop after my little escapade with the garage door frame in 2019 (I have a thread on
here somewhere about the whole painful process) and they were fixing the dent in the quarter for me, they offered
to fix the lead line bubbling as well and I took them up on the offer.
We wound up fixing not only that mess, but a couple beginning rust spots at the seams of the rockers under the
doors on both sides too. Nip it in the bud before it became something later on.

I still have the molten blob of lead from both sides of the roof that they took out and replaced with filler. It was
pretty surprisingly a large amount from both sides all told. I was there the day they did all that, too. Fascinating
to watch...

Paint match was perfect, once they gave up on their water-based nonsense and went to the supplier to get the
exact same brand and formula mixed that I gave them (since the PO gave it to me) - and no more lead mess:

 

[dadsbee]

Same here. Looks good Wayne! Are you going to keep it there until the snow is gone?

Now that we finally have a paint match... 2 forking months later... he knows he can do the lower passenger side, between wheels, up to the lower body line to clean up some minor bubbles and chips. Then I'll go fetch it with the enclosed as I still have to put it all back together to bill Hagerty and get paid. I need to get it done and everything cleared up with Hagerty before we can head for camp in the Spring.

 

[moparedtn]

Now that we finally have a paint match... 2 forking months later... he knows he can do the lower passenger side, between wheels, up to the lower body line to clean up some minor bubbles and chips. Then I'll go fetch it with the enclosed as I still have to put it all back together to bill Hagerty and get paid. I need to get it done and everything cleared up with Hagerty before we can head for camp in the Spring.

That's interesting about Hagerty - you folks in Canada have to "bill" the insurance company?
I have them too on Fred and it was a matter of calling them first, then choosing a company that accepted
their insurance (and had a good reputation, something I spent a lot of research time on) and from
there, I never saw a bill (well, other than the "extras" I had them do while Fred was there).

 

[dadsbee]

That's interesting about Hagerty - you folks in Canada have to "bill" the insurance company?
I have them too on Fred and it was a matter of calling them first, then choosing a company that accepted
their insurance (and had a good reputation, something I spent a lot of research time on) and from
there, I never saw a bill (well, other than the "extras" I had them do while Fred was there).

Has nothing to do "with you folks in Canada". I bought all the parts and currently have over 40 hours of labour in at my end and at least that much again putting her back together at $75/hr. I'm billing Hagerty out of my business for all of that and my paint and body guy is billing them for all of his work. I'm saving Hagerty money... can't imagine the labour bill if a restoration shop did it all on the clock and the guy assigned to the car time carded 8 hours every day. The assessor is tinkled pink that I have it handled and he has to do zip.

 

[moparedtn]

Has nothing to do "with you folks in Canada". I bought all the parts and currently have over 40 hours of labour in at my end and at least that much again putting her back together at $75/hr. I'm billing Hagerty out of my business for all of that and my paint and body guy is billing them for all of his work. I'm saving Hagerty money... can't imagine the labour bill if a restoration shop did it all on the clock and the guy assigned to the car time carded 8 hours every day. The assessor is tinkled pink that I have it handled and he has to do zip.

Obviously, there was no offense meant - merely curiosity as to how your "claim" with the insurance company
was apparently different than the usual for most of us.

Sometimes, there's no "there" there....

 

[dadsbee]

The "difference" is I took the bull by the horns and told the adjuster that I was buying all the parts needed while I could still get them and she agreed in writing to pay for them all as well as my time to re and re everything. My thousands of hours experience "on type" vs the generic paint shop doing such just wasn't gonna happen. Life's too short for that nightmare.