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Broke my 7UP Pop Machine today....

dadsbee said:
The "difference" is I took the bull by the horns and told the adjuster that I was buying all the parts needed while I could still get them and she agreed in writing to pay for them all as well as my time to re and re everything. My thousands of hours experience "on type" vs the generic paint shop doing such just wasn't gonna happen. Life's too short for that nightmare.
Click to expand...
Boy you have that right, a generic shop vs someone that knows Mopars is a real frustrating expensive pain in the azz.
 
dadsbee said:
On the lower hole I punched slots for any thermal expansion
View attachment 1419776
"H" pin slider half going into place.
View attachment 1419777
Filing off the sharp corners/edges of the vent frame channel, so they don't tear the 32230 mylar material.
View attachment 1419779
Lower H pin in place and just entering the vent frame channel on the first test fit. Was so tight I had to use the rubber hammer to get things back apart.
View attachment 1419782
Preparing for test fit #2. Making sure the H pins are fully pressed together and noting the flocking already started to peel on the mylars. Cleaned up and lubed with glass cleaner.
View attachment 1419778
Into the track again for a smoother slide.
View attachment 1419781
Glass out again and cleaned, then back in for test fit #3.
View attachment 1419780
Together again and some silicon added to the slide channel to free things up and working nicely.
View attachment 1419784
New plastic rivet and gasket to install the regulator track.
View attachment 1419785
Gasket folded and going into place on the regulator track.
View attachment 1419786
Click to expand...
I have found the new white plastic clips are a bit oversized and cause the window to be very stiff sliding in the front track. They usually need to be filed down a bit.
 
Fm3 Dart said:
I have found the new white plastic clips are a bit oversized and cause the window to be very stiff sliding in the front track. They usually need to be filed down a bit.
Click to expand...
I will use my old sliders if I ever have to replace things. But I was fortunate to buy old stock years ago.
 
Fm3 Dart said:
I have found the new white plastic clips are a bit oversized and cause the window to be very stiff sliding in the front track. They usually need to be filed down a bit
Click to expand...
The old repros were useless and wrong in two dimensions. The H sliders that are coming in the latest offering, while not identical to OE, are dimensionally correct.... as I noted previously in this thread.
 
dadsbee said:
The old repros were useless and wrong in two dimensions. The H sliders that are coming in the latest offering, while not identical to OE, are dimensionally correct.... as I noted previously in this thread.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have bought Genuine Chrysler fuzzies that had the wrong dimension h clips included, and repros that were incorrect too. Best to use the original h clips if they aren't broken or crispy.
 
Yep.... OE's are best, but as I'll note for the third time the latest repro offering has dimensionally correct H sliders. They still have the "mylar" too thick though.
 
dadsbee said:
Yep.... OE's are best, but as I'll note for the third time the latest repro offering has dimensionally correct H sliders. They still have the "mylar" too thick though.
Click to expand...
Were you get the trailer for a trip the other day?
 
Fran Blacker said:
Thought you posted a picture of your inclosed trailer being readied for a trip for the bird. In random Picture thread a day or two ago. Nice picture of the bird looked good.
Click to expand...
The trailer picture with my sled and fish huts going into it??? Different trailer..
 
Yellow from my camera, which shows it a bit light.
superbirdbentdoorpta 001.jpg

Interior side of the new door painted Gloss Black inside the door seal perimeter.
superbirdbentdoorpta 019.jpg

Us Canucks can finally use solvent based paint again, valspar to the rescue!
superbirdbentdoorpta 005.jpg

A very nice match.
superbirdbentdoorpta 008.jpg

It does make the rest of the car look "beat" though.
superbirdbentdoorpta 011.jpg

Below the body line between wheels was up next.
superbirdbentdoorpta 012.jpg

Quarter panel fake scoop, quarter extension and marker bezel all in fresh paint.
superbirdbentdoorpta 021.jpg

Decisions decisions...
superbirdbentdoorpta 023.jpg

Project creep sets in when you're checking your NOS decal stock to see what else you need!
superbirdbentdoorpta 034.jpg

Looks like all I need is a missing road runner decal for the nose and a small one for the truck lid lip. I start my new job on Wednesday morning at Body by Biggs. I hear the pay sucks...
superbirdbentdoorpta 034.jpg
 
dadsbee said:
The "difference" is I took the bull by the horns and told the adjuster that I was buying all the parts needed while I could still get them and she agreed in writing to pay for them all as well as my time to re and re everything. My thousands of hours experience "on type" vs the generic paint shop doing such just wasn't gonna happen. Life's too short for that nightmare.
Click to expand...
Again, the "difference" I was referring to is what I'm used to seeing in this life - namely, insurance companies wanting
to deal with a designated body repair shop vs. paying the owner claims when doing repairs themselves.
 
dadsbee said:
Yellow from my camera, which shows it a bit light.
View attachment 1436911
Interior side of the new door painted Gloss Black inside the door seal perimeter.
View attachment 1436913
Us Canucks can finally use solvent based paint again, valspar to the rescue!
View attachment 1436914
A very nice match.
View attachment 1436918
It does make the rest of the car look "beat" though.
View attachment 1436915
Below the body line between wheels was up next.
View attachment 1436921
Quarter panel fake scoop, quarter extension and marker bezel all in fresh paint.
View attachment 1436922
Decisions decisions...
View attachment 1436923
Project creep sets in when you're checking your NOS decal stock to see what else you need!
View attachment 1436924
Looks like all I need is a missing road runner decal for the nose and a small one for the truck lid lip. I start my new job on Wednesday morning at Body by Biggs. I hear the pay sucks...
View attachment 1436924
Click to expand...
Was there a time when we couldn't use solvent based paints?
 
Oh. I didn't know that. My two paint suppliers have had solvent based for everything I've bought for the past five years here in the west.
 
Wayne, I'm glad you are ok from the incident. The car, well, it's getting repaired correctly...and looking good. I layed a nice crease into the rear quarter of my GTX backing into my garage. It's still there as a reminder of my stupidity and that my car is a driver and minor bruises are acceptable.

I just hate to see the crap companies put out as reproduction parts that don't fit, have wrong profiles and need work in order to fit properly. The door, the molding, the mylar. And you are charged a fortune for it. Those plastic h sliders have always been wrong. The mylar is too thick as well. I reused my old sliders in the new mylar and they were still tight.
 
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