Why wasn't the op scolded for not having a FSM? Seriously,enjoy YOUR car, and grow a thick skin! Welcome.Get some more gear in the car,there's a 391 SG on facebook right now in FL for $400. Not Mine.
Right now I’m shifting at 4900 due to the wet spaghetti noodles some people refer to as stock style valve springs. Anything past 5100 I get valve float. As for the carb it was what I had that was tuned at the time and have wanted to switch to an 850 for a while.If the engine is running fine, I don’t see a tear down being a good investment with this budget. Just spray it and enjoy your car. Go pulling the engine and you’ll lose all kinds of time behind the wheel. You can get a kit and also optimize the fuel system for it and have plenty of cash for gas all season long. Maybe lose one weekend of work and then do some track testing. I’d also go first and baseline the car at your current elevation.
I’m not reading all six pages, plus the drama it sounds like went with it. So I’ll ask what rom are you turning when you shift? That carb is a bottleneck, well the 516s are too, still going to need a bigger carb if you want it to really go. You have freed up the intake and exhaust tracts. The factory put a 750 on the hp engines with less intake and exhaust potential, then went to 1000 cfm equivalent with the six packs. They didn’t change the cam specs, heads, or exhaust and claimed 15 hp. A lot of guys preach small carbs, but that’s for your diet. Ma Mopar knew what to do.
I believe the last one I took apart was about .055 down. Not far off a six pack pistonBefore I got real excited about the compression bump, I’d measure the C/H of those pistons, and cc the dish.
See how much of a change it will really be.
From what I recall, the 68/69 440 factory flat tops would provide the best CR increase(if you’re looking to swap in used factory pistons).
My pistons are .125-.127 in the hole so the increase would be there but not as much. Might make good paperweights from the sounds of itI believe the last one I took apart was about .055 down. Not far off a six pack piston
But since you don’t seem interested in really good advice I wanted to throw it out there.
I didn’t mean it rude, but the OP is ignoring advice from some really smart guys, and I’m not referring to myself.That is really rude but funny as heck.
Hey… I AM Guilty of the same habits as the OP.
Sometimes I get good advice but am not ready to go that way. Some of us like a challenge, some are short on cash and looking for really cheap and easy stuff to try.
I applaud the OP for being a young guy with the same spirit that us older dudes have for this hobby.
Guys that dare to try new things sometimes stumble onto a winning combination. I’d rather be THAT guy rather than a pompous assclown that knows everything yet never has been seen doing anything.
While the 70-71 6bbl piston is about .030” taller than the 68-69 flat top, the 4 valve pockets they have uses up that added height……..so the CR between the two is the same.I believe the last one I took apart was about .055 down. Not far off a six pack piston
While I wouldn’t say I’m ignoring good advice I would say it was foolish of me to pick up those parts. There’s over 100 replies to this thread and for me at least there’s quite a bit to digest and consider. Sure some of that is drama but I’m aware that there’s a lot of good advice to consider. I have yet to map out a solid plan and am putting together one still. I’m still young and ignorant so it should be said that I’ve still got a lot of learning to do. I’m still taking in all that has been said and the things I don’t quite understand I still have to learn more about and consider. Either way it’s good to hear most of everyone’s opinions and consider my options PRIOR to starting to tear into it rather than after I have it all blown apart. Hate to have my car in a million pieces then be stuck having to do certain things that won’t hardly do anything and waste time. I’m just trying to get as much info as I can before I start and made a poor choice, willing to admit that for sure.I didn’t mean it rude, but the OP is ignoring advice from some really smart guys, and I’m not referring to myself.
Now that I think about it,that was the cheapest, most effective performance upgrade I ever did. I am a tool and die maker, so I did some machining and made stuff that the average guy would have to buy or pay someone to do. I’d hate to total the thousands spent trying to get another second off my ET.
The reason it was necessary? The machine shop I trusted to order 10:1 pistons got me about 8.5:1 pistons, and I didn’t know enough to check it when I put the engine together. I was about the OPs age at the time and just didn’t know any better. (No internet then, remember?)
My point is that if you don’t start out with the correct foundation, you will have to do silly expensive things later to achieve your goal.
I have yet to map out a solid plan and am putting together one still.
We’ve all been there and done that. The great thing about this forum is the practical info is unmatched.While I wouldn’t say I’m ignoring good advice I would say it was foolish of me to pick up those parts. There’s over 100 replies to this thread and for me at least there’s quite a bit to digest and consider. Sure some of that is drama but I’m aware that there’s a lot of good advice to consider. I have yet to map out a solid plan and am putting together one still. I’m still young and ignorant so it should be said that I’ve still got a lot of learning to do. I’m still taking in all that has been said and the things I don’t quite understand I still have to learn more about and consider. Either way it’s good to hear most of everyone’s opinions and consider my options PRIOR to starting to tear into it rather than after I have it all blown apart. Hate to have my car in a million pieces then be stuck having to do certain things that won’t hardly do anything and waste time. I’m just trying to get as much info as I can before I start and made a poor choice, willing to admit that for sure.