Built a new toy/tool

[Beekeeper]

here's a k frame stand I built for removing the drive train from my bee. What do you guys think? I had the steel lying around so far I have 11.00 bucks in it I have a little more left to do
but it's pretty much complete. I lowered the bee down on it and it's solid as a rock.

 

[Beekeeper]

I designed it to come apart for easy storage. I'm thinking I will do something to support the front of the k after the engine and tranny are removed.

 

[Beekeeper]

I still need to build some supports for holding the engine up without the trans. I'm gonna do them once i
get the engine and tranny on it.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I like it!

 

[Pistol Pete]

Pretty cool.

Do the two pins in the front just go in the pockets in the K frame ?

You might want to consider a long handle with a "T" on the end to jockey it around when go to lower the car back on the K frame for install.

 

[Beekeeper]

Pretty cool.

Do the two pins in the front just go in the pockets in the K frame ?

You might want to consider a long handle with a "T" on the end to jockey it around when go to lower the car back on the K frame for install.

The pins go in the locating holes in the k frame. The reason I made them to be spaced narrower is that the a body k frame locating holes are closer together. I like your suggestion for some type of handle to maneuver
it around while under the car. I have a 67' barracuda to
Install a big block into later on.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Another tip for you:

Take two bolts the same diameter as the K frame bolts (5/8" I think). Cut the heads off and make one 3" long and one 4" long. Grind the shank end to a soft taper and cut a screwdriver slot in it with a hacksaw.

Screw the 4" one into the right rear frame rail hole and the 3" one in the left front frame rail hole.

These will serve as guide pins when you lower the car down onto the K member during the re-marrying. The K should engage the longer one first, giving you a pivot point if needed to jockey the assembly to line up the other pin. Install the OEM bolts in the unused holes, remove the guide pins with a screwdriver and install the last two OEM bolts. Easy peasy.

 

[Beekeeper]

Another tip for you:

Take two bolts the same diameter as the K frame bolts (5/8" I think). Cut the heads off and make one 3" long and one 4" long. Grind the shank end to a soft taper and cut a screwdriver slot in it with a hacksaw.

Screw the 4" one into the right rear frame rail hole and the 3" one in the left front frame rail hole.

These will serve as guide pins when you lower the car down onto the K member during the re-marrying. The K should engage the longer one first, giving you a pivot point if needed to jockey the assembly to line up the other pin. Install the OEM bolts in the unused holes, remove the guide pins with a screwdriver and install the last two OEM bolts. Easy peasy.

Great idea! I for sure will be doing that.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Wow cool idea I just use a floor Jack and run when I let it down

 

[GetX'd]

I love you guys that invent your own tools. This one looks like a sweetheart. A couple of tweaks and it could be commercial. Sweet!

 

[conv67bdere]

Very cool ides . . . Thanks for sharing !

 

[SlinktRR]

Why the scissor jack? Just curious. And is it stable for 1300lbs with three casters.

 

[Beekeeper]

It's all heavy wall tubing and the casters are 2000 lb.
casters.

 

[71SandbugCharger]

here's a k frame stand I built for removing the drive train from my bee. What do you guys think? I had the steel lying around so far I have 11.00 bucks in it I have a little more left to do
but it's pretty much complete. I lowered the bee down on it and it's solid as a rock.

View attachment 340279 View attachment 340280

Message sent on how long the upright pipes are~ Thanks!!!