• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Burnout technique

496BEE

496BEE

Well-Known Member
Local time
11:45 PM
Joined
Mar 22, 2017
Messages
284
Reaction score
261
Location
NJ
I never really thought about it, but being that I invested a couple bucks in a new trans and converter last season I'm now all ocd with it breaking or something. I hear people saying how they blow transmissions and sprags from incorrectly doing burnouts or from starting in 1st gear. Typically at the track I'll go through water box, shift to 2nd , use line lock to hold the car till about 4500, shift to 3rd and hold to 45-5k, then let off the line lock and mat it . On the street I'll do the same but start in 1st. Does this seem pretty much the same way you guys do it? Also it's a cope pro race 727 with optional billet drum, 5 pinion steel planetary, billet front pump upgrade, rear roller support and ultimate sprag. Ptc 4500 stall .... Again maybe I'm just being ocd as John told me with the upgrades it should take anything I can throw at it.
 
Oh just remembered one of my friends said they over reved the sprag or something and fu>ked it up doing a burnout
 
Subscribed, I need tips too lol my car will be rolling and at the track soon. BTW Cope trans for me too
 
You'll get tons of different opinions and techniques. I do my burnout in 2nd gear only. Pump the brakes a couple of times(I dont use a line lock) and whack the throttle to get quick wheel speed...then i just hold the rpm's steady til the first sign of smoke I see from the rear view mirror..once I see the smoke I start to slowly let pressure off the brake pedal and roll out of the burnout til I start to feel the slicks grab.. then I let off the gas and coast up towards the starting line.
 
This is with an automatic transmission. I start in second gear with brakes applied, get the wheels spinning then shift to third at 4,500- 5,000, it does not put as much stress on the transmission that way. You should have a big transmission cooler to, doing burnouts puts alot of heat in the tranmission and torque converter. It is aso good to have a rev limiter, so you do not blow the motor up. Just my 2 cents worth
 
RacerAL said:
You'll get tons of different opinions and techniques. I do my burnout in 2nd gear only. Pump the brakes a couple of times(I dont use a line lock) and whack the throttle to get quick wheel speed...then i just hold the rpm's steady til the first sign of smoke I see from the rear view mirror..once I see the smoke I start to slowly let pressure off the brake pedal and roll out of the burnout til I start to feel the slicks grab.. then I let off the gas and coast up towards the starting line.
Click to expand...




you don't have lineloc? Why not?
 
Do yourself a favor and NEVER do a water burnout in 1st. There's no need and it will guarantee you wont hurt the sprag. Start in second, shift to 3rd. Call your tire MFG and ask them their recommendation.
 
I put in a "3-step" MSD rev limiter box. I have a 4800 chip in the line lock wiring for the water box. I set the line lock and put it in 2nd gear and mat it. It goes up to 4800 and stays there while I heat up the tires. I then also have a 6800 chip in the "top end" slot so I wont "over-rev" the motor coming out of the water box after I release then line lock and also then I hit the 6800 top end chip right when I go thru the traps at 126.6 mph. The 3rd slot in the 3 step has a 4000 chip it which is all set up for my trans brake solenoid launch when I get my new COPE Super Pro Billet Trans Brake tranny installed.
 
Start at the front edge of the water. If water has been dragged beyond the box, move up do not start in the puddle. Most start in 2nd. Get it up above converter flash, let go of the button. Let it drive out (I modulate the throttle to hold mine at just over 6000). Then lift the thottle while still rolling. Do not let it hook under throttle if you like your converter. Personally mine doesn't need 2nd. Burnout starts in 3rd. Wheel speed is what you're after. Average time is about 4.5 seconds depending ingredients on track temp.
Doug
 
Last edited:
khryslerkid said:
What if you don't have a manual valve body?
Click to expand...
Start in 2nd or D. It will automatically upshift. A standard valve body uses the low/reverse band in 1st and wont hurt it. Unless the motor is very low hp (which probably doesn't even need a burnout) 1st isn't needed. Remember wheel speed. Not time spent is the key.
Doug
 
So sounds like I'm pretty much good the way I'm doing it except no more 1st gear burnouts and my converter is 4500 so does that mean I have to rev above that to like 5k and hold it ?
Pull about 1' from water box
Hold line lock
2nd gear
Rev to 4-4500
When I get good smoke shift to 3rd
Disengage line lock and instead of mating it I'll just hold it and gradually let off .
Good ?
 
496BEE said:
So sounds like I'm pretty much good the way I'm doing it except no more 1st gear burnouts and my converter is 4500 so does that mean I have to rev above that to like 5k and hold it ?
Pull about 1' from water box
Hold line lock
2nd gear
Rev to 4-4500
When I get good smoke shift to 3rd
Disengage line lock and instead of mating it I'll just hold it and gradually let off .
Good ?
Click to expand...
True lock up of the converter is the rpm the motor falls back to after the shift. Being in the water there is less load on the motor. Therefore the burnout rpm can be slightly less. Don't be that guy that thinks the wheels are spinning when it's actually just slipping the converter 12" after moving out of the water.
Doug
 
I run a low band apply forward manual valve body. I've always started in 1st and immediately shifted to 2nd as soon as the tires start turning.... hold there at about 4K until I can feel the tires start to pull (usually about 2-3 seconds) then let go of the brake and let it roll forward until the tires catch. I'm aware of the potential of sprag damage with manual 1st, but with the low band apply VB and a bolt-in sprag, I think I'm safe. I like starting in 1st because I think it puts less heat into the converter. But I could be wrong. Maybe I'll start going 2-3, and see what I think(??).
 
Equally in my four speed car I will launch it in 2nd gear so I don't
Have my rear wheels go up in smoke! I agree second gear!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

icetech
Bad fresh 727 noises
2 3 4
Replies
71
Views
5K
icetech
icetech
SlinktRR
727 band adjustment with trans in the car
Replies
6
Views
2K
GTX JOHN
G
Bryon
  • Locked
FOR SALE 418 Stroker and Built 904
Replies
2
Views
2K
Bryon
Bryon
M
Torque converter for Maxwedge
Replies
2
Views
2K
McPorGuy
M
C
New (old) member
Replies
10
Views
862
oldbee
oldbee
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top