Can of rusty worms

[HawkRod]

Great work and it's exciting to watch this come together! Keep up the good work!

Hawk

 

[Glenwood]

Forgot about the two pan-head screws, run into the welded nuts...been a handful of years, since I've done mine. But, here's what it looks like...

View attachment 372045

Thanks Miller. That's a good idea clipping the cables to the bracket.

 

[Glenwood]

Great work and it's exciting to watch this come together! Keep up the good work!

Hawk

Thanks Hawk! When I first tear into something like this floor, I think 'crap, that's gonna be a lot of work' or 'how in the hell am I going to do that'. I still don't know how you hardtop guys put in the new floor pan. One time I'm glad it's a convertible.
After I finish some major portion, I think 'hey, that wasn't so bad after all' and 'damn that looks pretty good'. That after about 3 hours of grinding 200+ plug welds yesterday!

I hated seeing these floor patches from the day I bought it. Bugged me more than the rotted out air box/firewall because of they way they were done. I really like seeing the new floor pan in there now. Makes it start to look like a new car sort of.
Having never done any type of restoration work before, it's exciting watching it come together. The trunk is next on the hit list.
I wish they made quarters for these as I would probably would replace them. They aren't terrible but they were patched and bondo'd up around the wheel well lip and lower sections. The wheel well outer lip could use replacing too, but the body job looks pretty good, so I don't think I'll mess with this area, at least until is starts to bubble down the road. Maybe I'll actually get to drive it next summer!

 

[Superfreak]

You might as well dig into it now, a lot easier while everything else opened and apart.Just my 2 cents.

 

[ckessel]

Ditto what Superfreak said. You already have a lot of it exposed that you would have to re-expose later.

 

[Glenwood]

I don't disagree guys. Don't think I'm ready to tackle quarter patches though. A whole quarter maybe but no one makes them for the Polara unfortunately.

Here's some fun I was having today.

Finished grinding down the welds but still had to address some swiss cheese in the rear pan. I had to replace a strip that overlapped with the new pan, but one area revealed some pin holes after some wirewheel work. In hindsight, I probably should have replaced the rear left pan as it is pitted, but I wanted to see if I could repair it and not disturb the convertible ram mount.

 

[Glenwood]

I was going to tyry to replicate the hole but I think that would be tough without a press and some sort of molds.
I found the same size hole in trunk, about the only good metal left in the trunk lol. I carved out a piece.

The surrounding metal is flat though, so I had to replicate the grooves.
The 1/2 ubolt from the rear axle was about the right size and worked out well.

 

[Glenwood]

Took some time to shape the metal, but I got it pretty close to the original.

After grinding and checking for pinholes, I think it turned out pretty good.

 

[mopar4don]

Hey that looks great!

 

[mr. b]

that patch looks great keep up the good work

 

[miller]

That's a good idea clipping the cables to the bracket.

Only guessing, since it's been awhile, but off the two tabs on my bracket, pretty sure four in all cables were clamped to it. P brake, speedo, and both shift cables, just using two clamps back to back on each tab. Just so the picture is clear. I'm now using shift linkage.
Man! I thought my car was poor! Great work!!

 

[Glenwood]

Sprayed some epoxy on the floor and applied some seam sealer. Looks like I'll have to fab up wire covers along the sides. The originals are missing in some areas and rusty.

 

[Glenwood]

Started cleaning up the heater. It's pretty rusty inside but intact.

 

[Glenwood]

Parts were disassembled and blasted. Sprayed some epoxy so hopefully prevent any further rusting. Ordered a gasket kit from DMT to finish it up. Still have to find a heater valve for the core.

Cleaned up the fan motor and housing.

Commutator and brushes needed a little sanding.

 

[Glenwood]

Blasted and painted the housing. It was fun putting this back together. Tested ok.

 

[miller]

If you think about it, might get your heater core pressure checked. Mine had a minor leak...just had to have rad shop put a fix on it.

 

[threewood]

When I rebuilt my blower motor (exact same one) I drilled a small hole in the bottom bearing cavity so I can lube it without disassembly. Hole is plugged with some rtv until needed. Mine was squealing pretty good before hand.

 

[Glenwood]

When I rebuilt my blower motor (exact same one) I drilled a small hole in the bottom bearing cavity so I can lube it without disassembly. Hole is plugged with some rtv until needed. Mine was squealing pretty good before hand.

That's a good idea. These motors have brass bushings and the steel shaft of the armature gets a little corroded over time, causing them to bind or squeal. It was a pain to get it apart and needed a little finessing to re-assemble.

 

[threewood]

Here is where I drilled mine. Small hole, but I have a small oil bottle with a needle end that works perfect.

 

[Glenwood]

Welcome back to Glen's hack shop!
To make the wire covers, I flattened out the rusty one to use as a template on some 22ga.

Some round rod works great to tap in a bead.

Creasing the reverse side.

My sledge hammer handle had just the right profile to create the curve. The 22ga bends easily by hand around the wood.