Can of rusty worms

[2059]

Hope you got a tight grip on that sled! :icon_keel: as we all here know, "the deeper you dig, the more you'll find." Then there's that point where you say... Awww; "F" it!.. So what if it takes another Canadian winter, I'm doin' this right." and BAM it's on a rotisserie! Lol! Keep the updates and pict's coming. Love to see the '64s saved. especially a convertible!

 

[miller]

You were talking about the windshield, once...you'd be surprised how much rust can build, under that nice shiny chrome trim, at the bottom run.

If you plan on replacing the cowl, window needs to be out, anyway.

 

[camtra]

Good luck. Nice car, will be worth all the trouble in the end.

 

[Glenwood]

yep, I'm researching windshield removal now. Pretty sure there's no other way. It would bother me so much if it wasn't already painted, but oh well, that's life.
We finally got some snow so I'll be sledding this weekend for sure. In between sledding, I plan to practice my welding skills and start on the inner fender. You guys do some pretty amazing repairs so I hope I can measure up okay.
I see many of you use of POR15. Is this expensive rust preventer coating put on everything, including the engine bay, except the exterior metal? Then prime and paint the visible areas?
I also see the use of Allmetal as a body filler for some areas with pin holes, etc. Is this something to use on repairs such as welded joints or just use body filler? I'm not even sure it's available way up here with all of our environmental nazis. lol

 

[camtra]

yep, I'm researching windshield removal now. Pretty sure there's no other way. It would bother me so much if it wasn't already painted, but oh well, that's life.
We finally got some snow so I'll be sledding this weekend for sure. In between sledding, I plan to practice my welding skills and start on the inner fender. You guys do some pretty amazing repairs so I hope I can measure up okay.
I see many of you use of POR15. Is this expensive rust preventer coating put on everything, including the engine bay, except the exterior metal? Then prime and paint the visible areas?
I also see the use of Allmetal as a body filler for some areas with pin holes, etc. Is this something to use on repairs such as welded joints or just use body filler? I'm not even sure it's available way up here with all of our environmental nazis. lol

These are great questions. Since I'm a newbie to this I'm extremely interested in some opinions myself. I can tell you that I'm using molasses and water for all rusty parts that I can take off and it works perfect. Just takes about 2 weeks to work. But I'm curious about opinions on rust remover/prevention on parts that cannot be removed. :happy1:

 

[Glenwood]

I've read lots about molasses and want to try this instead of blasting everything. Just haven't found a place to buy it yet.
What isn't mentioned much is the cleaning and degreasing recommended by POR15 before applying it. Do you guys scrub the undercarriage down after blasting or using the scotchbrite wheels, etc., before brushing on the POR?

 

[2059]

I've read lots about molasses and want to try this instead of blasting everything. Just haven't found a place to buy it yet.

Any Farm Supply store will carry 1, 2-1/2 or 5 gal. quantities of molasses. TSC, Tractor Supply, Big R, Canadian Farm Supply. If you're in a rural farming area any Feed Mill will carry it or can get it. As for the prep., others here can tackle that question. but blasting is probably the most used method.

 

[Superfreak]

Some guys will say they like POR15 others will say they hate it. I have heard good results from people using "Rust Bullet". I use a product called "Bluesteel"

 

[miller]

Windshield is easy enough to pull. Main thing is take your time, go easy with it...and a third hand helps alot. Be sure to get a nylon wedge, to use on the rubber seal, to pry it apart.

My cowl was rusted, though not as bad as your's, and rust was starting to build at the lower windshield frame.

 

[Glenwood]

Quick update...
Started repairing the inner fender. I made a patch for the hood hinge and tried to weld it in.



- - - Updated - - -

A welder I am NOT! I can't figure out why one tack is perfect then the next blows holes. Very frustrating kind of like my golf game!
I'm blaming my cheap 105A 220V welder (just like it's my golf clubs fault!)
Started on the next piece which seems very thin and tough to tack.


- - - Updated - - -

I figured a piece of copper might help but hasn't make a big difference.
Time for a nip of scotch with my pal Dexter!

 

[Superfreak]

clean the areas where you are going to weld so there is good clean bare metal otherwise the weld gets contaminated hence your results. I would highly recommend some practising before starting on the car.

 

[Glenwood]

clean the areas where you are going to weld so there is good clean bare metal otherwise the weld gets contaminated hence your results. I would highly recommend some practising before starting on the car.

Thanks for the advice SF. I actually did grind the areas clean before welding. Maybe more practice will help. Just seems like the welder is inconsistent, besides me sucking at it. lol

 

[Coronet 14]

Get some 18 to 20 gauge sheetmetal to practice with. What I started doing was learning how to join two pieces together. Then I got two different size metal cutting hole drill bits. Drilling the small hole through first then using the larger one to drill a larger plug out of the sheetmetal and practice welding the larger plug in the hole. I'm far from an expert in welding but this is how I am learning. I've learned that the tension on the wire inside the machine can make a difference. Look at the tip you may have to clean it. Look at the tip closely if it is deformed or the hole is too large replace the tip. Distance from your work can effect your welds as well as heat and speed settings. Practice welding on spare sheetmetal then when you feel comfortable start welding on car. Like I said I'm no expert but I feel more comfortable the more I practice. Soon I will start welding on my car. It's your car so these are just suggestions

 

[Glenwood]

I appreciate the comments C14. I think I'll spend more time practicing before I continue on the car. What gets confusing is when the tack weld seems perfect, you know a nice semi flat puddle, good penetration, etc., then the next bunch blow holes or seem to build up too much, so I start to play with the settings and end up with the settings back where I started. More practice definitely.

 

[miller]

Some spots look good, some maybe too cold, where the buildup is too much. Practicing will help alot, if your new to welding. The time/heat on a weld makes the dif, besides a good hand. Just takes getting used to what it takes.

 

[camtra]

Definitely needs to clean before the weld very good. Any trash, rust, etc, will cause different reactions. Another suggestion is to put tacks away from each other. Sometimes if you put tacks close to each other the metal is already very hot from the first tack and that will aid in "blowing through". I also have been using thicker patch pieces when patching small issues that are not on the exterior of the car. The thicker patch pieces makes welding much easier I find.

 

[Glenwood]

Thanks for the comments guys. I did grind the area before welding although the pics don't really show that very well. Maybe I'm not cleaning the area wide enough...
I try to tack on the opposite side from the previous weld but maybe I'm going at it too quickly and not allowing enough time to cool down. The metal here is kind of thin and pitted on the back.
I'm starting to think this is a waste of time and I should just replace the whole inner fender even though the rest of the inner fender is in good shape.

 

[camtra]

Thanks for the comments guys. I did grind the area before welding although the pics don't really show that very well. Maybe I'm not cleaning the area wide enough...
I try to tack on the opposite side from the previous weld but maybe I'm going at it too quickly and not allowing enough time to cool down. The metal here is kind of thin and pitted on the back.
I'm starting to think this is a waste of time and I should just replace the whole inner fender even though the rest of the inner fender is in good shape.

If it's pitted on the backside then it will blow through. It's best to cut back all of the rust and weld to good metal. Just my $.02

 

[Superfreak]

And don't bother with the copper, it's not needed for the welding you are trying to accomplish. You see what the previous repairs look like so you need to step back and take your time and practice, practise and more practice so your efforts will
show some measure of quality. Sometimes patching does get annoying and I have even decided when to stop and replace a whole panel, either way it all takes patience.


Robert

 

[Glenwood]

Thanks for the advice Robert. I thought the copper will help reduce the blow-through behind the pitted portions. Taking it back to 'clean' metal means replacing the inner fender as there isn't much to weld to in this area.