Can you fit a 275/60 on a

[696pack]

Yes the tire will fit with no modifications..
Although the 7 inch wide rim is acceptable,an 8 inch is best with a 4.50" backspacing.
It will be a tight fit and may rub the right side inner wheel well under load or over bumps.
The cure for that is install air shocks and raise the car until it stops rubbing-aprox 1/2inch or 40 psi in the shocks.Monroe part # MA757
I work at a tire shop and had helped other members here as well.
Hope this helps.

I have said it before and will say it again, AIR SHOCKS ARE BAD IDEA!! They are actually attempting to do the job of the rear spring by supporting the weight of the car on the shocks. You will find many old cars that were the victum of air shocks back in the day with bend and even torn top body braces where the top of the shock mounts from attempting to car this weight.

JUST SAY NO TO AIR SHOCKS. If you want to raise the rear of the car do it the RIGHT way and change the springs.

 

[Furyous]

I am sorry that i got a debate going here.. I have decide that the car is to clean to mess with and bought a 66 Coronet wagon that I will cut the tubs out of and ladder bar the rear so I can get a 315 under it...


I have another thread here called I went and done it and you can see the coronet..

 

[Cranky]

I run this pressure and rim size for years with radials and D/R with no problems. Handles and drives fine, it's not a corner carver or daily driver. I usually have a 1.60-1.65 60ft. Say what you will, it works.

Never said it wouldn't work....I've done my fair share of deviating from recommended air pressures too.

You have to remember that the car originally ran bias ply tires and when installing radials you have to add 4 to 6 psi to the radial tires.
Most older Mopars only called for 24 or 26 pounds of air.
Do the math--As others said,30 PSI is fine.
A lower profile tire wil give you more road feel and running them on the street at max PSI is just plain harsh and the car will wander all over the road.
Running S/S springs will add to the stiff ride and the 30 PSI will compensate that.
Always go by what the vehicle manufacturer calls for-(then add for the radials)-not what the maximum is on the tire.
The maximum load and PSI is a DOT safety requirement to tell the owner not to exceed those limits.
As for the rim and tire width,I have been using the Tire Guide for twenty years.
Sectional tread width and bead witdh are two totally different measurements.
The tire manufacturers and the Tire Guide both show the recommended rim widths for particular tire sizes.

As mentioned,7 inch rim is acceptable--not perfect--but an 8 inch is recommended by most tire manufacturers depending on the company..
Minimum is 7.5 maximum is 9.5.
I had customers run the 7 inch rims with no problems even though I did not agree with it.
I prefer the look and handling of the 8 inch with the 2756015's.

Keep in mind,people,the original poster asked for help regarding a WAGON--which does have larger wheel wells than hardtops and seedans.

Yup, you're right.

I have said it before and will say it again, AIR SHOCKS ARE BAD IDEA!! They are actually attempting to do the job of the rear spring by supporting the weight of the car on the shocks. You will find many old cars that were the victum of air shocks back in the day with bend and even torn top body braces where the top of the shock mounts from attempting to car this weight.

JUST SAY NO TO AIR SHOCKS. If you want to raise the rear of the car do it the RIGHT way and change the springs.

I've used air shocks many times in my 44 years of hot rodding and if you do them right and don't go nuts with them, they work well. For an example, how bout using just one on the right side instead of going with the biased leaf spring set up and cranking up the left front torsion bar a tad to get the chassis preload that's so desirable for drag racing? I ran a 66 Belvedere in 1970 with a 3.91 open diff with very good success doing that. Ya don't need to put in a million lbs of psi in an air shock to do what's needed. 10 psi will usually raise the car about 1" and that's usually all that's needed but I also agree with you about doing it right. If you need the lift, re-arched or new heavy duty springs is the way to go but anyone that was hot rodding in the 60's-70's probably remembers all too well how many used air shocks to jack up the rear a good 6" and stuffed some L-60's up under it. That was dumb!

I am sorry that i got a debate going here.. I have decide that the car is to clean to mess with and bought a 66 Coronet wagon that I will cut the tubs out of and ladder bar the rear so I can get a 315 under it...


I have another thread here called I went and done it and you can see the coronet..

I thought debate was good!? :headbang:

 

[DGENET500]

66 Coronet without the springs being moved? Or with them moved?

I have 275/60's on my 66, mounted on 15x7.5 Convo-Pros w/ 5'' B.S. but I have a 68 housing in car...